A-stamp long arm updated runner

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mk-Zero
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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by mk-Zero »

Now its got black arms, rere Worlds in front and original Worlds in back. May go back to white when I stop crashing so much. :lol:
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I also added some carbon fiber goodness from CNCRC (aka seabass) to go with my towers, a battery strap and trans brace. Thanks Jake, they look awesome!
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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by GodSpeed »

Is there a white long arm conversion kit or is it something you have to piece together yourself?

What's required to convert a Classic to long arm? Just arms and longer turnbuckles?

That's some nice carnage. Haha

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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by 85Edinger »

You have to piece it together yourself. White wide arms weren't even re-released.
Converting a short arm to Championship Edition spec requires:
Front arms
Front shocks
Front shock tower
Front caster blocks
Front steering blocks
Front axles
Drilling the correct inner camber link holes on the rear bulkhead
Rear hub carriers
All of the turnbuckles

Obviously you can get away without some of these things but that's what it takes to get stock CE geometry.

I turned my short arm into a CE, minus the front shocks. Then I got a Stealth CE with a pink chassis and now I'm almost done converting the short arm back. IMO it's best to appreciate the short arm for what it is and get a long arm/ Stealth car if you decide you want more. With the amount of changes that you need to make to get it right the car looses it's original identity.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.

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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by GodSpeed »

I didn't realize it would be that complicated, or just involve so many parts I guess.

I agree with your last statement. I'll just leave it. Thanks.

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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by GoMachV »

You can get away with just arms and longer tie rods but you won't be getting the added benefits from the longer shocks, caster blocks, inline axles ect
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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by mk-Zero »

What's the difference with the caster blocks, are those the highly sought after 25 degree ones?

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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by JK Racing »

Most short arm cars had poo for caster blocks (15-20 degree), even less if the car was run as an oval car. Its just safer to pick up fresh ones so you know what is on there.
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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by mk-Zero »

Are there no marking to distinguish them, I have no idea what I have?

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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by JK Racing »

nope, no markings. take front wheel off and look at the angle in relation to the front tower. front tower is 30 degrees, if they are parallel, you have 30 degree caster blocks :)
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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by 85Edinger »

25 degree blocks are ideal for a long arm car, but even 30 beats the 15s the short arm comes with. A long arm handles badly with them.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.

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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by mk-Zero »

Thanks, I'll have a look.

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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by mikea96 »

Yours look to be 15's I would definitely find some 25's or get some of the new white 30's

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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by mk-Zero »

mikea96 wrote:Yours look to be 15's I would definitely find some 25's or get some of the new white 30's
Are you saying that based on this pic? For the 30 degrees ones, the two red lines should be parallel and for the 15 degree ones they would look about like mine, with 15 degrees between them? Is that right?
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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by mikea96 »

Yes that is correct! 30's would be parallel to the angle of the shocks and then they start moving farther forward and the you go down in degrees

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Re: A-stamp long arm updated runner

Post by mk-Zero »

Okay, thanks! I'll round up some 30's and swap them in. Would that help explain the on-power understeer?

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