My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

[howaboutme]

So..haven't done much and will probably not get to building until the new year. I have been reading, reading, reading though. I am about to place a tower hobbies order (have to use my ecash!). Besides some odds and ends, I'll pick up some tires for the RC10. I've researched the 2 tracks nearby and have asked on the rctech forums about tires and have come up with some options to play with:

Track 1: hard clay indoors
- Pro-line Electron M4 (front and rear)
- Pro-line Positron M4 (front and rear)
(JC dirt webs work too but not available)

Track 2: clay, indoors but not conditioned (or heated)
- Pro-line Electron MC (front)
- Pro-line Hole Shote M3 (rear)

Don't ask me why on the above combos..I just researched and found suggestions.

Question: What do you all do at the track when you want to experiment w/ different tires? Are you unmounting and mounting at the track or do you come with different wheel sets that were either pre-mounted or you mounted at home? I am planning to buy a few extra sets of AE wheels so I don't have to mount anything at the track.

Question 2: Does anyone recommend cheap tires that is purely for non-track practicing? I'd like to practice at the local baseball field (dirt) but don't want to ruin or wear out the above tires. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

[joey_zrl]

It looks like you've done your research and made great tire choices. For practice on the ball field, Pro-Line M3 Holeshot tires are a bit less costly than the other tire choices. The M3 compound is a soft compound, but not as soft as M4. So you should get a little more wear out of your tires.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Proline-8206-02-Hole-Shot-2-0-2-2-M3-Soft-Off-Road-Buggy-Rear-Tires-/191599522312?hash=item2c9c38b208:g:ZSoAAOSwpDdVeTNs

You would basically want to have a couple of sets of tires for racing, and also for practice. As far as I know there are no pre-glued tires/wheels for the RC10.

[howaboutme]

It looks like you've done your research and made great tire choices. For practice on the ball field, Pro-Line M3 Holeshot tires are a bit less costly than the other tire choices. The M3 compound is a soft compound, but not as soft as M4. So you should get a little more wear out of your tires.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Proline-8206-02-Hole-Shot-2-0-2-2-M3-Soft-Off-Road-Buggy-Rear-Tires-/191599522312?hash=item2c9c38b208:g:ZSoAAOSwpDdVeTNs

You would basically want to have a couple of sets of tires for racing, and also for practice. As far as I know there are no pre-glued tires/wheels for the RC10.

Thanks buddy! I kind of figured there wasn't a cheap all-around tire...Only cheaper race tires.

So..to have various sets of tires at the track. Are people un-mounting and then gluing tires on the fly? I know eventually you'll have to un-mount to replace tires but just wondering about in the moment situations.

Thanks!

[tileman]

Modern tire glue is difficult to break loose, so its not likely anyone is unmounting at the track. Methods involve boiling them off, baking them in an oven, or acetone treatment over several days. You need to have a set of wheels for each set of tires. If you have glue that sets quickly, you can mount them at the track. I do it all the time. Your best bet is to visit each track and do some spectating first. Talk to the fast guys and ask what tires are working or are popular at each particular track. Internet research for tire choice isn't always the best idea since every track's clay or dirt is different as well as each person's perception of medium or high grip. It will save you some bucks in the long run.

[howaboutme]

Modern tire glue is difficult to break loose, so its not likely anyone is unmounting at the track. Methods involve boiling them off, baking them in an oven, or acetone treatment over several days. You need to have a set of wheels for each set of tires. If you have glue that sets quickly, you can mount them at the track. I do it all the time. Your best bet is to visit each track and do some spectating first. Talk to the fast guys and ask what tires are working or are popular at each particular track. Internet research for tire choice isn't always the best idea since every track's clay or dirt is different as well as each person's perception of medium or high grip. It will save you some bucks in the long run.

Thank you for the insight.

I agree that visiting is second to none...Just haven't been able to get enough time recently so research is the next best thing..I just chose the wrong time to start a hobby...More time after the new year.

[RC10th]

I mount up and bring a bunch of tires to the track to test, run a battery or two on a used set of wheels to get in the groove, and get a baseline of your times. Then start experimenting with tires. The ones that don't work so well just use for practice or try later in the day, and when worn out cut out the inserts and acetone the tires off. Glue up a new set and your good to go again. I usually get about 3 rounds on a set of rims and inserts before they get tossed.

[howaboutme]

I mount up and bring a bunch of tires to the track to test, run a battery or two on a used set of wheels to get in the groove, and get a baseline of your times. Then start experimenting with tires. The ones that don't work so well just use for practice or try later in the day, and when worn out cut out the inserts and acetone the tires off. Glue up a new set and your good to go again. I usually get about 3 rounds on a set of rims and inserts before they get tossed.

Thank you. This is very helpful as it gets me even more information on what's required. Since I'm in the stock up mode, a lot of my Q's deal with the misc things. Much appreciated.

[howaboutme]

Received a goodie box today from tower...



Tires, tires and more tires. 2 extra set of RC10 wheels, one white set and one yellow to go along with the kit wheels. Also got some shock oil to experiment with as well as the JC tire gluing rubber bands (1st bling haha).

Only thing left is ESC/Motor....

....but am getting distracted by my Ares FP75 heli that I got for free from Amain....A cheap way to get us hobbyist into helis..Now researching more about them then cars! FP or CP?

Once I get the esc/motor, will start build shortly. Also planning on visiting one of my local tracks on Monday.

[howaboutme]

Need some help understanding all of the various connectors out there for the electronics, battery to ESC or ESC to motor.

Since I am new, I am not invested down any certain pipeline with exception of having some NiMH w/ Tamiya connectors and some Tamiya motors and their turnkey bullet connectors. I am trying to figure out which connector to use and hope to stick with it.

First, battery to ESC (and charger).

My charger came with an EC3 only (besides owning the Tamiya connector). Everything that I have seen seem to say that EC3 is still the most, or one of the most, popular connectors out there. I read the history about it and since my charger is a Dynamite from HH, I understand why it was the only connector provided.

However, I have looked further into EC5 connectors because my preferred 1st choice battery is SMC and they provide EC5 connectors pre-attached. A lot of people seem to be moving to EC5's because of their capacity (I think that's what it is but could be wrong) compared to other connectors, namely EC3's. Granted, a lot of these are flying fixed wings.

Any thoughts?

2nd, ESC to motor.

I know a lot of people prefer to solder directly from motor to ESC but I would like the ability to experiment. Being new, that is important to me and I want to be able to do it easily. Should the ESC to motor connector be the same? I've seen indications that it does not have to be. That said, which connector would make the most sense? My local track has a sportsman/spec class that provides motors to each racer. Those motors come w/ male 4mm leads already attached. Knowing that, would it make the most sense if I stick w/ 4mm female bullets (assume those are called bullets) connectors from the ESC and the male from the motor? What are my other options?

Lastly,

The Tamiya bullets from the motor to the ESC. What are they? Are they proprietary or the 4mm connectors I just spoke about? Would be nice if the Tamiya's can be part of the picture too.

Thanks in advance!

[jwscab]

the tamiya connectors can be purchased on ebay as a kit of unassembled parts. males and females.

for example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/192051692546?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

[howaboutme]

the tamiya connectors can be purchased on ebay as a kit of unassembled parts. males and females.

for example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/192051692546?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Thanks! I wasn't aware that those could be mounted w/o soldering. That's very helpful.

[RC10th]

I didn't research exactly what battery your using but most racers use bullets instead of connectors that plug straight into the battery from the ESC. As a tip make sure you don't use the basket cage type bullet connectors, use the solid split type. The cage type can become so hot that they actually melt the battery casing around the bullet. Also make sure you use a small piece of red heatshrink on the + cable so you don't plug it in backwards. Mark your batteries + with a red dot from a paint pen or piece of red tape as well.

Straight soldering to the motor is best, it's only 3 solder joints so not hard to change out, if you must use bullets use 4mm solid again.

Tamiya connectors are terrible for everything but charging, avoid them if you can. I'm still a fan of Deans plugs although many people these days seem to dislike them, again, buy originals and avoid the cheap knock off versions as many are made from inferior materials. I believe this is why Deans plugs have been getting a bad rap lately.

[RC10th]

Here's an example of the bullets...... top pic is bad, bottom is good.

[howaboutme]

Here's an example of the bullets...... top pic is bad, bottom is good.

Thank you! This is very helpful.

I've been trying to figure out the nomenclature when reading the description to the following battery (link as an example only):

http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_97&product_id=397

When they state "5mm inboard", are they referring to exactly what you're talking about (though they are using 5mm)? Is there a distinction between 4mm and 5mm for ESC/Battery connection or is 5mm more typical for esc/battery? Otherwise, an adapter might be needed...And to clarify, for the battery connector, it would be a male?

For motor to ESC, the ESC gets the female while the motor gets the male? These are all the same connectors?

[joey_zrl]

Here's an example of the bullets...... top pic is bad, bottom is good.

Thank you! This is very helpful.

I've been trying to figure out the nomenclature when reading the description to the following battery (link as an example only):

http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_97&product_id=397

When they state "5mm inboard", are they referring to exactly what you're talking about (though they are using 5mm)? Is there a distinction between 4mm and 5mm for ESC/Battery connection or is 5mm more typical for esc/battery? Otherwise, an adapter might be needed...And to clarify, for the battery connector, it would be a male?

For motor to ESC, the ESC gets the female while the motor gets the male? These are all the same connectors?

Here is an 'example' of a lipo battery with 4mm inboard +/- connections:
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_92&product_id=121

You would need an adapter with 4mm male end plugs, to connect into the 4mm female plugs on the battery.
Like this one: http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=66&product_id=106

EC5 plugs for your esc/battery connection:
Female: http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=66&product_id=165
Male: http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=66&product_id=164

As for which plugs go where on the esc and battery... the battery always uses the female plug, and the esc uses the male plug. Using a female plug on the battery is a safeguard against dead shorting the leads together accidentally, since the connector leads are enclosed inside of the connector plug case on a female plug, the leads are non-exposed.

The esc motor wires.... there are three motor lead wires on a brushless esc, labeled A, B, and C. One for each phase winding of a three-phase brushless motor. Racers usually solder the motor wires straight to the motor's phase tabs to prevent resistance (heat) caused by using plugs. However it is possible to solder on bullet connectors between the esc and motor if you want to be able to do a quick motor swap. Racers want all the power they can get, so that's why you don't see them using plugs in that area.