My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

[joey_zrl]

That's some great customer service! I'm looking forward to seeing you progress with your build. Have you decided on a theme for the body yet?

[howaboutme]

That's some great customer service! I'm looking forward to seeing you progress with your build. Have you decided on a theme for the body yet?

Thanks! I have not figured out body yet. I am a bit nervous about that part too. I have yet to try to do multi-color, let alone complex, art work on bodies in the past but I may try to see what my capabilities are...just not sure yet. To be honest, I tend to think the body as utilitarian and what it looks like has nothing to do with how it runs. But I know hobbyist take body art seriously and use it as a form of self-expression. We'll see.... I do know the wing will not be painted!

I'll try to post some pics on occasion but I probably won't document it too detailed as I am not really do anything too out of the ordinary yet...mostly sticking to stock....Also really distracted by learning how to fly helis.....

[joey_zrl]

My first few bodies were just one-color, but I got the window masks down pat, lol! It's amazing what a few finely placed decals can do for a body. It's all about having fun, and picking up skills along the way. If you need any body painting tips, I can be of assistance. I've been into airbrushing a little over a year and a half. I'm not an artist, but I know the basics.

[howaboutme]

Thanks Joey! Appreciate your help.

Well..I built the stealth transmission tonight. I was a bit worried about this because I knew about all of the topshaft issues. To be honest, I am so green that even though I sound like I know what a tight or stuck topshaft means, I really don't.

After I covered the case up, I went to turn the topshaft and it was most definitely tight. My problem is, I have no point of reference since I have never experienced a correctly manufactured or built transmission like this before so I am not sure what to be aware of. Does it turn? Yes. Do I have to force it a bit? Yes. Is it smoother after a few turns? Yes.

That said, I went ahead and put the plate and slipper clutch on to see what happens. How did you guys figure out how to tighten the diff locknut the very first time? After turning and trying to figure out which opposite shaft to hold (unsuccessful), I finally had to whip out 2 hex wrenches and put them, one of each side, on the diff outdrives in order to tighten the nut...

Now that it's all installed, I try to move the spur itself and nothing else moves. I move the slipper/top shaft and everything moves fine, a bit tight and with a click every few revolutions, certainly not smooth, but yet not stuck....

Soo..based on this description, do I have a dud or shall I move on and try to work it in by running the car? I have heard that worked for a lot of people.

I'd post a pic..but that wouldn't help. Thanks!

[GoMachV]

Sounds like the nut isn't tight enough yet. It's hard to tell someone how to do it when you've always gone by feel. I would say tighten the nut until you can visually see the spring collapse a bit. Maybe 1/8". The adjustment really comes after the car is assembled. There IS a trick to it...

With both wheels held on the ground, try to spin the spur gear
Watch the slipper nut. If the nut stays in place and there is resistance to turning the gear by hand, your ok. If the nut spins, you need to pop out the right side axle and tighten the diff screw a little. Half turn to a full turn. Then try again. If the nut spins with the spur (with both tires held from spinning) then your diff is looser than the slipper and it will melt the diff when running. Any slipping action should result in the nut doing exactly what the tires are doing- in this test that is staying stationary.

[howaboutme]

Sounds like the nut isn't tight enough yet. It's hard to tell someone how to do it when you've always gone by feel. I would say tighten the nut until you can visually see the spring collapse a bit. Maybe 1/8". The adjustment really comes after the car is assembled. There IS a trick to it...

With both wheels held on the ground, try to spin the spur gear
Watch the slipper nut. If the nut stays in place and there is resistance to turning the gear by hand, your ok. If the nut spins, you need to pop out the right side axle and tighten the diff screw a little. Half turn to a full turn. Then try again. If the nut spins with the spur (with both tires held from spinning) then your diff is looser than the slipper and it will melt the diff when running. Any slipping action should result in the nut doing exactly what the tires are doing- in this test that is staying stationary.

Ok thanks for the advice. It sounds like I should continue the build...What about the top shaft? Is figuring out if that's okay part of the slipper test? Or is figuring out if the topshaft is bad a separate test?

[GoMachV]

If the topshaft was bad in the most common way, you would hear rubbing when you spin the transmission, or it could even be locking up. Some topshafts have had other problems

[howaboutme]

Ok..I'm not so sure my topshaft is good. I had my wife help me w/ the following video. Please let me know what you think.

https://youtu.be/6zDE2mku-kg

Thanks!

PS. For the life of me I can't figure out how to embed...Please edit as you please.

[scr8p]

If you have a drill press, take off the slipper, chuck it up and let it run awhile.

[GoMachV]

Seems aweful tight but I think that's considered normal on those.

This is where you might want to let it run in with a drill if you have one handy. I personally just spend a few bucks on a 6565 case and 6570 idler, it makes the trans smooooooth

To imbed, you need just the last set of numbers and letters off the end of the YouTube link. I tried on yours and it's not working. Might be a flaw in the new layout

[youtube]3W1f9dyMFqI[/youtube]

[howaboutme]

Thanks all!

Can you explain the drill press process? I don't have a press but I have a drill...Will that suffice and how? Are you saying that use the drill in lieu of the motor? I think I get it.

Also, will replacing the case and idler to 6565 and 6570 solve the top shaft issue? I've heard people 1) ask AE for a top shaft replacement, which may or may not solve the problem or 2) use a B4 top shaft.

I've seen past posts where people have also gotten replacement parts as a result that included 6565, 6570 and 9601. I may try that first. What's another week?

Thoughts?

[scr8p]

Yeah, use the drill to spin the trans and break in the gears.

As long as your slipper is not dragging on the motor plate, you do not need another one.

[OUTLAWD]

Got my diff balls today! Not bad, got an email back from AE on Monday and received it cross country today....Now back to the build.

That is great!

I will try to reach out again. I had sent them 2 emails, plus faxed the form for missing parts over a month ago and have had no response...

[howaboutme]

Got my diff balls today! Not bad, got an email back from AE on Monday and received it cross country today....Now back to the build.

That is great!

I will try to reach out again. I had sent them 2 emails, plus faxed the form for missing parts over a month ago and have had no response...

Sorry to hear. Are you emailing direct with [email protected]? I just emailed my receipt (bought online) and a picture of my issue. This was my first communication so I have no point of reference but I did email them again about the transmission so we'll see what they say about that. I prefer not to mod or pay more money for a problem not caused by myself....

[howaboutme]

Yeah, use the drill to spin the trans and break in the gears.

As long as your slipper is not dragging on the motor plate, you do not need another one.

Can you describe this a bit more in detail? I think I understand what you're saying. When I take off the slipper, the top shaft is exposed. I then crab the top shaft w/ my drill (w/o bits, etc) and tighten the chuck and then start running?

Thank you.