My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
- GoMachV
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
Yes, that would be fine or you could probably even use the 1/4" adapter on the drill if you have one (where you can quick change bits) and go right onto the slipper nut with it.
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
Thanks all! I ran it a good while and can see improvement. I greatly appreciate it!
So now...I know how tight the diff nut is will depend on many factors and is not truly set until I have the car set up w/ wheels/tires. But, at this point in the build, when I turn the spur, it only turns itself but does not turn the outdrives. However, when I turn the top shaft via the slipper spring or the nut, the outdrives turn.
Is this normal?
So now...I know how tight the diff nut is will depend on many factors and is not truly set until I have the car set up w/ wheels/tires. But, at this point in the build, when I turn the spur, it only turns itself but does not turn the outdrives. However, when I turn the top shaft via the slipper spring or the nut, the outdrives turn.
Is this normal?
- Jack
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
No. The spur should turn the trans. Something is missing or loose. Take the slipper back apart and make sure the pads are seated properly and the spring should be compressed A bit when you put it back together.
The orange discs are where the slip happens. The spur is keyed to them. If you spin the spur before to change anything, you will probably notice the orange pieces are slipping on the large metal discs.
The orange discs are where the slip happens. The spur is keyed to them. If you spin the spur before to change anything, you will probably notice the orange pieces are slipping on the large metal discs.
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
I watched your video again- I think your outer disc is not slid into the grooves in the shaft. Just take off the outer hub and spin it until it drops onto the flats on the shaft
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
Thanks! Yes, I re-attached everything and it works now. I appreciate the patience. Doing this for the first time puts a lot of self doubt...Plus, I am used the cartoony Tamiya instructions...Gotta love them.
- Jack
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
Some progress! But still issues w/ the slipper.
I want to thank GoMachV and Sc8p for spending part of their Sunday with me!
Now to the slipper. After GoMachV's hints, I did get the spur to operate correctly but realize the pad was not aligned property so I took it apart. Now I can't get it to work properly. Some pictures:
As you can see, the diff nut is pretty tight but yet my spur is still loose and spinning freely. The hubs seem to be seated properly and the pads seem to be nested within the grooves of the spur gear but yet the nut, washer and spring cannot get tight enough for the spur to turn the gearing. I've tried as evidenced by some stripping (need to get nut drivers instead of using pliers.)
Thoughts?
PS...How the heck do people put the wing tubes in w/o some mechanical help?
I want to thank GoMachV and Sc8p for spending part of their Sunday with me!
Now to the slipper. After GoMachV's hints, I did get the spur to operate correctly but realize the pad was not aligned property so I took it apart. Now I can't get it to work properly. Some pictures:
As you can see, the diff nut is pretty tight but yet my spur is still loose and spinning freely. The hubs seem to be seated properly and the pads seem to be nested within the grooves of the spur gear but yet the nut, washer and spring cannot get tight enough for the spur to turn the gearing. I've tried as evidenced by some stripping (need to get nut drivers instead of using pliers.)
Thoughts?
PS...How the heck do people put the wing tubes in w/o some mechanical help?
- Jack
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
I'm not sure exactly what's going on there. Here's mine, as you can see the nut is not on very far and plenty of threads left.
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
Ok. Thanks. I just think the sandwich between the slipper hubs aren't set properly but I can't seem to figure out exactly what the issue is...Almost like the pads are too slippery or not entirely set within the nesting of the spur but that doesn't seem the case..Very weird. I'll continue to look at it. I just don't want to strip the nut...
- Jack
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
Yeah its way too tight in the pic, but if the spring isnt compressing then there is something not right. Id start over, and make sure the pads are in the right spot and the slipper hubs are keying into the shaft correctly.
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
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- scr8p
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
So, if you spin the topshaft the trans will spin. But if you hold the topshaft you can easily turn the spur?
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
OK, will look at it again.
If I spin the topshaft, everything spins correctly. If I turn the spur only, nothing else spins. I can hear the friction of it touching the pads but that's it. Topshaft doesn't spin.
I wonder if the spring is too compressed? Could be from my messing w/ it too...
- Jack
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
Don't think it's the spring..Here's a video of my spinning it. (Thanks for the tip on embedding videos.)
- Jack
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
Wow that's weird. I took mine apart and reassembled with pics. See if you can see things that are different as you follow my pics...
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's
I may be taking a shot in the dark here, but doesn't one of the slipper hubs have a notch in it so that it "keys" onto the top shaft? I don't remember if both slipper hubs have that key, or only one of them. You might re-check your slipper hubs, and see if one of them has a flat keyed area that locks into the corresponding shape on your top shaft.
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