Choosing an ESC these days ain't easy. Please advise me!

[Coelacanth]

I was hoping some of you could give me your suggestions on what ESC units I could consider buying, given my needs and my current equipment. I'll provide as much info as I can, and if you need anything more, please let me know.

The candidate: Kyosho Turbo Optima that will have front one-way diff, has the OT-76 gear limiter, and will mainly be used for bashing, both offroad & on--with an on-road body...that said, I want at least as good performance as a Kyosho Lemans 240SB motor would provide back in the day (that was a 4-minute motor with tons of torque).

It currently sports a Novak 4 ESC from that era (no reverse), and Futaba Magnum Junior receiver & servo from back then. I have an unknown modified black can 4-minute motor, the 360 Gold, and a 480 Gold. I'll eventually get a brushless motor too, that's why I'd like an ESC that's backwards-compatible.

-I want something that will work for brushed or brushless motors;

-I would like it to be compatible with at least 7 cells/8.4V;

-I'm thinking something that goes down to 12T or 13T;

-Must have reverse;

-Waterproof is a bonus;

-Compatible with old Futaba receiver/servo--I've heard of issues with the voltages being different.

I've done a fair bit of research already, and some of the LRP A.I. units caught my eye. I had to wade through page after page of el-cheapo Chinese/Hong-Kong-made crappies...gotta skip those!

So, any suggestions? Need any more info? Have something you're not using? I have a lot of Turbo Optima & Optima parts, if that might work as trade-bait. I'll post info on that in the Buy/Sell/Trade section in the near future.

[CamplinP]

I have had many and no real complaints. My favorite is the Castle Mamba Max Pro. It will handle anything, brushed, brushless, sensored, non sensored, USB programable, and the Pro is now ROAR approved in case you want to slap it into something and race. For around $125 it is bullet proof and ready for any type of motors and batteries in the future. On the cheap I just bought of of the Reedy setups that comes in the T4.1 off the BAY for $70 for my sons T4 and it moves rather well. Comes with the ESC and a 3300kv motor.

[Coelacanth]

I have had many and no real complaints. My favorite is the Castle Mamba Max Pro. It will handle anything, brushed, brushless, sensored, non sensored, USB programable, and the Pro is now ROAR approved in case you want to slap it into something and race. For around $125 it is bullet proof and ready for any type of motors and batteries in the future. On the cheap I just bought of of the Reedy setups that comes in the T4.1 off the BAY for $70 for my sons T4 and it moves rather well. Comes with the ESC and a 3300kv motor.

Thanks CamplinP, I'll look into those. I still don't understand how things changed with motors and terminology. Back in the 80's, it was "How many minute motor?" and "How many RPM?"...now it's "how many turns, how many kV, how many windings"....I don't get it. When did all the terminology change, why, and what does it mean? Should I be looking for a 13T motor, a 4000 kV motor, or what?

[Nouseforaname]

The 240sb is 19 turns, 360G is 18 turns, and the 480G is 25 turns.

[Coelacanth]

The 240sb is 19 turns, 360G is 18 turns, and the 480G is 25 turns.

Yep, I have all that info listed in the little manual I have from those motors. They have different thicknesses & windings of wires. Of the aforementioned motors, the 240SB has a much higher RPM than the others, close to 30,000 if I recall correctly.

What range of specs would I look for in a brushless motor at least as high-performance as the Lemans 240SB, I wonder?

[CamplinP]

I am about in the same boat. I raced in the late 80's early 90's then school, wife, kids,etc. Now my son is 7 and we have gotten back into it. I actually think the brushless are eaiser to figure out once you get the hang of the quick math. In the kV the k is rpm and the V is volts. RPM's per Volt. So if you have a 5700kV motor and a 7.2V Nimh the RPM's would be approx 41,000. 7.4V Lipo 42,000 with much better "punch" and performance. Throw in a 3s Lipo at 11.1V and you get a monster 63,270 RPM's. I currently have 6900kV, 5700kV, and a 3300kV for motors. The 6900 is too much for almost everything I do. The 5700 can be tamed depending in the dirt conditions. My favorite all arond motor is actually the 3300. They have so much torque that they can be geared higher and run times are insane. I think after buying all of those I will get the one that I actually want, a 4600.

[Coelacanth]

I am about in the same boat. I raced in the late 80's early 90's then school, wife, kids,etc. Now my son is 7 and we have gotten back into it. I actually think the brushless are eaiser to figure out once you get the hang of the quick math. In the kV the k is rpm and the V is volts. RPM's per Volt. So if you have a 5700kV motor and a 7.2V Nimh the RPM's would be approx 41,000. 7.4V Lipo 42,000 with much better "punch" and performance. Throw in a 3s Lipo at 11.1V and you get a monster 63,270 RPM's. I currently have 6900kV, 5700kV, and a 3300kV for motors. The 6900 is too much for almost everything I do. The 5700 can be tamed depending in the dirt conditions. My favorite all arond motor is actually the 3300. They have so much torque that they can be geared higher and run times are insane. I think after buying all of those I will get the one that I actually want, a 4600.

Thanks very much for that info! I learned something new today...I had no idea what the "kV" stood for...I was calling it kilovolts, which obviously is impossible.

[markt311]

A mamba max pro and any good sensored 17.5 or 13.5 motor would work very well. Novak, Tekin, LRP, and Team Epic/Trinity are all good motors

[Coelacanth]

I managed to score a nice group of items on eBay sold as a lot, it must've gone under most people's radar...it included an Associated SC200 ESC (17T+ with reverse), 2 motors (SC10 RTR, Reedy Radon 30,000 rpm), 1903 servo, old HPI Racing 1300 mAh NiCad battery pack (didn't need this) and brush cutter.

What do you guys think? I can eventually upgrade the ESC to something capable of lower turn motors, but this unit seems to be a good fit for now. Are the motors any good?

[markt311]

My radon from my SC10 lasted 3 runs before it blew up and the speed control lasted 3 months before it quit working. The servo lasted another month. I hope they work better for you.

[Coelacanth]

Poo...that's not encouraging. Fortunately, it's only going to cost me $16.50 plus shipping. I kind of figured the components included with the Associated SC10 would've been more robust! Are they known for being that prone to failure, or were you just really unlucky?

[markt311]

I think the motor was overgeared, I got one of the first SC10 RTR's and they changed the stock gearing right after I got mine. The ESC worked great while it lasted, AE has excellent customer service, so I wouldn't worry too much. They sent me a brand new replacement ESC and didn't want me to send in the old one.

[CamplinP]

That should get you going but I would start a penny jar for a brushless setup if you do much driving. The motor maintenence is nill and the run times are much longer due the the high efficiency of the brushless systems. I really hated cleaning brushes and comms constantly. My prayers were answered. You can pick up a Reedy system for under $80 and that 3300kV runs really well. If you are halfway serious about this hobby though, you would be better off just getting an ESC that will fit any need possible and a cheaper motor. That 3300 can be had for around $30.

[Coelacanth]

What's the verdict on the LRP IPC Generation Plus v4.1 ESC? It has forward/reverse, 5V output voltage (should work with Futaba Magnum Jr. receiver), works with 4 - 8 cells, 13T+ motors...what I can't determine is if it will work with both brushed & brushless motors. Your opinions?

[CamplinP]

Brushed only. Most brushless capable ESC's will clearly state it. Also brushless ESC's will have three wires to the motor as brushed have two.