The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
- THE H.P FREAK
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The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
HI!... Well I started to work on a RC-10 that will be a runner, not a shelf queen. This one started out as a TEAM "B" chassis. I had the chassis powder coated blue. Bought some NIP RPM front/rear "A" arms. All new bearings through out. Most of the parts are new and bought black. A few others were dyed black. I'll be running a EZ-RUN 8.5 BL motor and 80 amp ESC. 7.4V LIPO.
Can someone suggest some shock for this project? I've seen some blue anodized shocks on the AE site. I think they are for a B3/B4? Are they any good? Same as the vintage Gold RC-10 shocks but just blue?
I also ordered 3 sets of wheels. 1 white, 1 green, 1 black. Going to go with the black on this. The wheels that are on it in the pics are not the wheels I'll be running.
I'm also going to run this body. I believe it's call a Stealth.
Can someone suggest some shock for this project? I've seen some blue anodized shocks on the AE site. I think they are for a B3/B4? Are they any good? Same as the vintage Gold RC-10 shocks but just blue?
I also ordered 3 sets of wheels. 1 white, 1 green, 1 black. Going to go with the black on this. The wheels that are on it in the pics are not the wheels I'll be running.
I'm also going to run this body. I believe it's call a Stealth.
102 RC vehicles and counting...
- jwscab
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Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
yep, you can run associated blue shocks. Same as gold or hard anodized, just blue. There is one goofy thing you will have to watch out for.
the B4, B4.1 shocks are .89" front, and 1.18" rears
the T4, sc10 are 1.02" front, 1.39" rear, so as you can see, nothing directly matches with a gold tub.
you can use B4 fronts, and t4 rears, but they rears would be slightly too long. you could use b4 rears, but they would be slightly too short.
this part number: 6424B is a 1.32" blue shock body. you can also get .71" fronts I believe, but the .89" should work Ok with the front tower you have.
so you can either use shocks that are slightly different, or you can build the exact right shock combination.
honestly you might be perfectly fine running the T4 or B4 sets in the rear, as long as you make sure your travel limiters are done properly(both internal and external)
I hope that wasn't too confusing...it's still early and I haven't finished my coffee....
the B4, B4.1 shocks are .89" front, and 1.18" rears
the T4, sc10 are 1.02" front, 1.39" rear, so as you can see, nothing directly matches with a gold tub.
you can use B4 fronts, and t4 rears, but they rears would be slightly too long. you could use b4 rears, but they would be slightly too short.
this part number: 6424B is a 1.32" blue shock body. you can also get .71" fronts I believe, but the .89" should work Ok with the front tower you have.
so you can either use shocks that are slightly different, or you can build the exact right shock combination.
honestly you might be perfectly fine running the T4 or B4 sets in the rear, as long as you make sure your travel limiters are done properly(both internal and external)
I hope that wasn't too confusing...it's still early and I haven't finished my coffee....
- flipwils11
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Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
That was very good info regarding the shocks, will help me on my build for a modern/vintage racer.
Was going to post though and offer kudos to this build. I like the black and blue! The wheel/tire setup looks menacing.
Question for powder coating: Has anyone done a before and after to see what the impact is to the weight? The powder coating to me would have a more significant effect than anodizing but it may be immaterial.
Was going to post though and offer kudos to this build. I like the black and blue! The wheel/tire setup looks menacing.
Question for powder coating: Has anyone done a before and after to see what the impact is to the weight? The powder coating to me would have a more significant effect than anodizing but it may be immaterial.
- Seabass
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Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
See this link.
LowclassCC took the time to take several measurements. I am sure this link will provide everything you need.
http://lowclasscc.net/rc10-weight-specs/
LowclassCC took the time to take several measurements. I am sure this link will provide everything you need.
http://lowclasscc.net/rc10-weight-specs/
- THE H.P FREAK
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Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
HI!... O.k? I see nothing there on proper shock measurements......bigjeepzz wrote:See this link.
LowclassCC took the time to take several measurements. I am sure this link will provide everything you need.
http://lowclasscc.net/rc10-weight-specs/
102 RC vehicles and counting...
- scr8p
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Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
it wasn't linked for shock measurements........THE H.P FREAK wrote:HI!... O.k? I see nothing there on proper shock measurements......
flipwils11 wrote:Question for powder coating: Has anyone done a before and after to see what the impact is to the weight? The powder coating to me would have a more significant effect than anodizing but it may be immaterial.
- m_vice
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Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
Very cool looking car, I like the blue ae shocks, I am using them on a current project.
One suggestion I have is to cut down the nose tubes you are using for wing tubes to level them up with the tower.
One suggestion I have is to cut down the nose tubes you are using for wing tubes to level them up with the tower.
- THE H.P FREAK
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Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
HI!... Actually that was done on purpose. I like the tubes a bit higher due to it make for putting on the body easier..... for me.m_vice wrote:Very cool looking car, I like the blue ae shocks, I am using them on a current project.
One suggestion I have is to cut down the nose tubes you are using for wing tubes to level them up with the tower.
102 RC vehicles and counting...
- m_vice
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Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
understood, I mentioned it mainly because I don't like to see the side holes.THE H.P FREAK wrote:HI!... Actually that was done on purpose. I like the tubes a bit higher due to it make for putting on the body easier..... for me.m_vice wrote:Very cool looking car, I like the blue ae shocks, I am using them on a current project.
One suggestion I have is to cut down the nose tubes you are using for wing tubes to level them up with the tower.
- THE H.P FREAK
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Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
HI!... Well my AE blue rear shocks came in today. Still waiting on the fronts. Also got a RPM center steering link and my wheels.
102 RC vehicles and counting...
- m_vice
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Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
looking nice, make sure you add 3 spacers on the inside shaft of the rear shock... to limit travel a bit.
- THE H.P FREAK
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Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
HI!... Fixed the dead pic links.
102 RC vehicles and counting...
Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
The powder coated chassis looks great. I collecting parts to build a modern racer. I was on the fence to re-ano or powder coat to cover some of the scratches. The power coat looks great.
- THE H.P FREAK
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Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
HI!... Thanks, I have a local guy here in town that does great powder coating. I have my own glass beading cabinet so I glass beaded all the original anodizing off and brought it to him. I believe he charged me something like $10 (CAN) to do it. He also did my black TEAM car chassis. IMO it's 100% nicer than the anodizing. He's looking into a powder coating process that will give me both RC10 copper/orange anodizing colours but in powder coating instead. I have 15 more RC10's to restore and some of the chassis's are pretty scratched up.zleader wrote:The powder coated chassis looks great. I collecting parts to build a modern racer. I was on the fence to re-ano or powder coat to cover some of the scratches. The power coat looks great.
102 RC vehicles and counting...
Re: The H.P FREAK's Project "Black & Blue"
I live in Ontario Canada. Does he do local or mail in work? Have trimmed down any chassis for the slammed look?
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