belt drive tranny

[ram902]

does anyone remember the name of the transmision for the rc-10 that was just belt drive no diff it was just bare aluminumdidnt look anything like the 6 gear tranny

[PBR Allstar]

you might be thinking of the trackmaster. They made a belt drive and a direct drive. they were both "open" looking with the diff suspended between two aluminum plates. I think there was one other belt drive tranny of that style as well MIP maybe? but I'm really not too sure on that one.


ford.

[ram902]

it is just two pieces of aluminum with a belt between it uses a regular spur gear on the outside i will post a pic tomorow i found it when i started dusting off my old stuff

[Eau Rouge]

Four different belt systems that I know of.

1) Trackmaster, which is what you have. They made the sandwich open tranny that had the center diff and a layshaft with the internal belt. Great oval diff in the 80s. I have a graphite version somewhere...

2) A&L Lethal Weapon. The yellow enclosed diff that looks like an MIP, though is connected by internal belts. The creator and original seller of that diff (Daryl Lane) is new to these forums and has been posting a lot lately. Great to see that type of excitement from the guys who were actually making and selling stuff back then.

3) Bullet Racing. This was the diff I always wanted and never got. It took a planetary gear drive diff and mated it to a belt system in an enclosed gearbox to make for what could have potentially been the smoothest diff ever.

4) All Hyperdrive external systems. Originally just an external spur and pinion system for the RC10 and other cars, that worked pretty well (queit), but never quite caught on. It required reverse rotation motors to work properly

[Dr. Robotnik]

4) All Hyperdrive external systems. Originally just an external spur and pinion system for the RC10 and other cars, that worked pretty well (queit), but never quite caught on. It required reverse rotation motors to work properly

What does that entail exactly? I have a Hyper drive on the way and was wondering do standard motors not work or is it just you need to wire them backwards?

[Eau Rouge]

IIRC, the Hyperdrive system is a handful of cogged spurs and a whole lot of cogged pinions. There were 3 or 4 different belts needed for various ratio combos.

Because you are adding a third connection in the gear system (belt), the motor now needed to spin the opposite way. For stock motors, there were a few companies that made reverse rotation motors, and for mods, you flipped the endbell 180° around. There was an electrical reason why you couldn't switch the (+) and (-) leads, but I don't recall off the top of my head.

Some guys would flop the tranny around to put the motor on the opposite side of the car, but that changes the vehicle balance. On pan cars, they would build the cars with the motor on the left side of the car (pre-LTO chassis) to get the motor weight on the left side for ovals.


Neat ideas, but as you could probably figure out, Hyperdrive nor anyone else still sells belt drive systems like this, so they obviously weren't as free as gears. Maybe with some of the new thin, lightweight belts available to us now with all of the TCs using belt drive, something could be done again to improve on an old design.

It'd be neat to see...





doug

[Dr. Robotnik]

Cool, thanks for the tips there.

I had a sweet Parma intercooler end bell for just that 180° mod. But its "gone missing in the post"....GRRRRRR

I have a handful of spurs, cogs and belts coming. If anyone wants a Hyper Drive when I have worked out which bits I need to fit my car, then let me know and I'll pass on my spares.[/list][/url]

[ram902]

here is the pics

[mrlexan]

That looks familiar, was that the one that sold about a few months ago?

[ram902]

i have had this one for at least 16 yrs

[mrlexan]

Ahhh, the all look the same anyway.

[Eau Rouge]

Definitely HUGE photos and definitely a TrackMaster. Looks to be set up for mid motor or HyperDrive belt pinions/spurs (the motor is set up for the opposite side mounting).

[ram902]

yea sorry bouut the big pics not sure how to shrink them but it is setup for mid motor i ran all my rc10s that way i felt the done better on oval

[Mr. ED]

iiii, correction: it's not just about turning the endbell 180°: that actually is identical to swapping the leads really.

The fact is your endbell is put a few degrees off from neutral postion.
That means the little screws are not exactly in the middle between the magnets. A postive timing is when you rotate the endbeel in the rotation direction. For Stock moters the timing is often 'fixed' and they'd use upto 14°, but 7 is more standard for moddified class moters.
The timing makes the moter perform differently on torque etc turning the normal sence or the opposite. As I recall the more positive timing , the less troque at low rounds, but the higher the top speed.

So If you have a new moter which has never been run , you can easily make it reversed: just loosen the endbell and turn it turn for the same timing on the other side. Then connect the red lead to your black lead of the esc and (you got the picture)

On a used moter you better replace the brushes with new ones before running it in reverse. Some people would probably advise to true your collector first also.


For anyone wanting to try belt drive instead of standard spurrs: I picked up a TRF 501X diff-pulley and widened the center hole. This bolts right onto the standard spur adapter or slipper.
The belt is you standard 3mm, but very short, and pinions are the hardest to find: I've still to find one with a 3.2mm bore and am using a little tube with a hole for the pinion screw to catch the flat of the moter axle.
For ratio: just measure the diameter of the 'teeth tops' on both pinion and pulley and divide these as you would divide the teethnr.
(To be axact you'd need to measure the heartline, but it 'll be close enough.)