RC10T2 rear axle help

[BigCountry]

I have been running my T2 the past couple days and the rear axle pins keep coming out. I have read to put shrink wrap or a "drop" of CA glue on the ends of the pins to hold them in place. Are there any other suggestions that anyone else has tried?

[DaveM]

Hi,

Are they split pins or a solid pin, the solid pin is a factory team part but I don't like them, they always

fall out at the wrong time.

I prefer the stock ones,

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2977&P=7

Cheers, Dave.

[BigCountry]

Now forgive me if I am to ally wrong here. Those look like the pins that hook into the wheels to drive them. I have those type of pins that drive the wheel amd solid pins that hold the axkle together. Will these also fit on the inside part of the axle? (The pin that connects the two axle pieces together) I apologize I do not know all the technical terms, hopefully I make sense.

[DaveM]

My bad

Pics are worth a 1000 words.

If you have CVD's make sure the grub screw is able to thread all the way in.

I had one where when I did the grub screw up tight it was not actually biting into the pin as the

thread in the cvd barrel was not formed properly.

I use a dab of blue Loctite, nut lock on the grub screw.

Cheers, Dave.

[DaveM]

Hi,

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3276&P=7

Take the barrel and screw in the grub screw and make sure the grub screw goes far

enough in to block the pin hole.

If it doesn't when assembled, it will not bite into the pin to stop the pin from working out.

Cheers, Dave.

[bully]

Yeh like Dave said although I use the red loctite and it pays to clean grub screw and hole in the axle joint with some sort of alcohol before loctite is used..

[BigCountry]

This is the second set of CVD's that I haven't been able to get right. I tighten the set screw as tight as I can but it doesn't seem to be making it all the way to the pin. I need a couple of new set screws for it since I tightened them so tight and I did use some team associated thread lock so it wasn't easy getting them back out. Maybe I will see if my LHS has a rebuild kit like the one you put the link to. I will also try what you said Dave, to put the screw in without the pin to see if it blocks the hole. If it doesn't block the hole, any ideas?

I will upload a couple pics when I get home tonight.

[jwscab]

couple things:

if you think the grub screw is not tightening up all the way, drop a tiny piece of solder in the hole before the grub screw, this will fill and conform to the gap and help grip.

secondly, do as you mentioned and apply a small section of heat shrink tubing over the very end of the bell to prevent the pin from flying out.

[DaveM]

Hi,

Old trick I read somewhere,

Srew in the grub screw until it puts a mark on the pin, remove pin and file a flat where the mark is.

Is more fiddly when assembling to get grub screw to line up with the flat but will stop pin coming out.

IF the grub screw is screwing in far enough to fill hole.

Cheers, Dave.

[DaveM]

Hi,

Well I thought I would check my own 4 spare barrels,

3 are o.k.

The last one the grub screw does not go in far enough to fill the pin hole.

Bin for this one.

Cheers, Dave.

[BigCountry]

My phone has been giving me fits so I am unable to post pics currently. I did get a rebuild kit just like the one you sent. I tested both screws and they both covered the hole to the point I could not slide the pin through. So I used the blue thread gel that came with the kit and so far only 1 has held up after running it for about 5 minutes. So I think I am going to go the route of using some heat shrink tubing around the bell. I will definitely get some pics of that up once it is completed and my new phone comes in the mail.

I like the idea of making a flat spot it just seems like making a flat spot on such a small pin would be a chore. If the shrink wrap doesn't work I will definitely try it though.

[DaveM]

Hi,

You are right the small flat is a chore but the pin definitely can't come out.

Cheers, Dave.

[BigCountry]

So I got some 3/8" black heat shrink tubing and installed it tonight. Here are some pics for all that are interested. I will say that it seems to be a fantastic solution (so far ). It has a firm grip on the bell portion of the axle and it seems like it is going to work great. Also, it only took all of about 10-15 minutes total for both axles including disassembly and reassembly.





Make sure there is a small portion of the tube over the end for the extra support so it doesn't slide off.



I just used a stick lighter and slowly rolled the axle around until it firmly shrunk against the bell (make sure to not put the flame to close and burn the tubing)



Trim the excess




And install



You can see in the last picture what the pin has done when it comes loose and rips through the rear arm. I will update after I run it around tomorrow. Fingers crossed it holds up.

[DaveM]

Sweet

Cheers, Dave.

[BigCountry]

As I expected, this works great! Ran around for about 15 minutes and not a single issue. Thanks for everyone's input