Steering / Bellcrank question for the RC10T.

[escher]

I am going though a semi-buggy conversion of a RC10T I found locally.. I just picked up a set of aluminum bellcranks from an RC10 and noticed my steering was all messed up - (see pic below)... I had to lengthen the linkage between the crank arms to compensate for the wheels being toed out with the new setup... I know this is messed up..

I also have been doing some research and it appears that most folks who do this move the bellcranks to the forward holes in the nose plate - but I don't have any forward holes....

What can I do to remedy this? If I just buy longer turnbuckles and set the linkage back to where it should be, wont things still be messed up?


Do I need to drill for new holes in the nose plate? If so, how far forward?

Thanks folks!

Pic of where I am now and the current state of the restoration/conversion:

RC10T Buggy Conversion - Phase 1 by Christopher Purdy, on Flickr


RC10T Buggy Conversion - Phase 1 by Christopher Purdy, on Flickr

[jwscab]

all truck nose plates I have ever seen have two sets of holes, but i have seen them with some differences related to servo holes. not sure why that would not, i don't know the history of the truck parts, so maybe it's an early nose plate, or a late gt noseplate? someone knows I'm sure.

either way, I believe the hole spacing is about .400" difference. check the bottom side and see how the nose plate lines up with the chassis. with the nose in the extended position, there is a gap between the chassis edge and 'z' bend in the noseplate. in the short position, it's pretty much right up against the bend.

don't go to truck bellcranks, they don't work that well, geometry is 'twitchy'.

check your nose brace tubes, lots of times the tube have two holes, in case you want to run in short or long wheelbase. you can get a dimension from there.

[escher]

Post deleted - I guess I did have the other holes... DOH!!!

Got it sorted - thanks!!