Reset/calibrate generic 120A v2.3 brushless waterproof ESC

[Coelacanth]

I'm sure you guys have seen these particular ESC's all over the 'net. I happen to have 2 of them. 120A v2.3 generic waterproof brushless ESC's. I can't for the life of me figure out how the hell to calibrate & reset these things! Unlike a bazillion earlier versions of this same ESC that have a reset button by the power switch, these have a rubber boot covering the button and there's no reset button ANYWHERE that I can find. I even removed the plastic power button end cap and boot and there's no reset button inside the boot, either! WTF?? I've tried holding the transmitter throttle down while powering up the ESC and it makes beeps but it still doesn't seem to be letting me properly calibrate the bloody thing.

Back story: When I first connected everything and tested it, I had instant throttle response, but then I started reprogramming it with the program card and something got out-of-whack, I was trying to tone down the punch for the car I'm building for my 10-year-old daughter. Now, when I hit the throttle, it takes a good 3 seconds before the motor starts to turn. I've messed with every setting I could think of, done a reset through the program card, but nothing gets rid of this annoying throttle-on delay. What am I missing here?? There MUST be a way to properly recalibrate the transmitter throttle trigger endpoints!

[Coelacanth]

Since nobody had an answer for this, I hope this info will help anyone else who might have or purchase one of these generic 120A v2.3 waterproof ESC's. This thing was driving me crazy because, searching high & low all over the internets, I could NOT find the correct programming info, or even a way to recalibrate this particular ESC.

Firstly, unlike many similar ESC's, this particular unit with the rubber boot over the power switch, CANNOT be reset the usual way (by pressing a Reset button adjacent to the power button while turning on the power and holding your transmitter throttle trigger down to enable recalibration). There simply IS NO Reset button! So for this reason, I don't recommend this ESC.

Secondly, I did manage to track down a correct programming chart, and I also already had a program card, which has the chart printed on a sticker on the back of the program card. Unlike most ESC's which have only a half dozen, or up to 10 programmable options, these units have 15 or more.

Whilst I could find no documented procedure anywhere on how to do a reset--the program card has a Reset button--I discovered the correct way to do a reset is as follows:

1) Connect ESC 3-wire cable to program card;
2) Connect battery power;
3) With ESC powered OFF, press and hold the Reset button on the card while turning the ESC power on;
4) All the LEDs on the card light up for a second, then all settings should be returned to defaults.

I don't know why it was nigh impossible to find that info anywhere. I don't think simply pressing the Reset button on the program card did anything unless you do it that exact way.

Now, on to the issue with the weird couple-seconds lag when you pull the throttle trigger, before the motor would begin to spin. I messed around with just about every setting on the chart (attached); "Start Mode" is effectively the same as "Punch". But changing that didn't make any difference to the lag. The motor would spool up faster, but only AFTER it lagged for a couple seconds before starting to spin. I didn't originally mess around with "Minimum Forward Strength", which is defaulted to 7%, because I wanted this car to be tuned down for my 10-year-old daughter. That turned out to be the problem. I don't know what the percentage relates to, but what this option appears to be is the latency before the throttle comes on, and when I set it to option 7, the throttle came on with almost no lag. (I honestly don't know why the DEFAULT value for the ESC results in such a big throttle lag; I mean, who the hell wants to wait a few seconds after they give a car throttle, before the motor actually starts to spin??)

I would imagine the "Minimum Backing Strength" functions the same way, it affects the amount of lag between when you push back on the throttle, and the motor actually stops spinning & reversing.

Anyway, I hope this mystery solved might help others who are being frustrated by this particular v2.3 ESC model...or might stop someone from giving up on it and tossing it in the garbage. At least one advantage of these ESC's is how adjustable they are, they have a much wider range of adjustments than many other ESC's, but unfortunately finding the correct documentation is like finding a needle in a haystack.

[Coelacanth]

Update: Here's the program card I'm talking about. Since the ESC has no manual way to be programmed or reset, you NEED the program card to change anything from default settings. Frustratingly, few of the ESC's that this card is compatible with include the card with the ESC, or even mention it. I just happened to have one stored in a Ziploc bag, it must've come with one of the ESC's I bought, but most of the same ESC's I see for sale don't seem to include it.

https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Programming-Brushless-Electronic-Controller/dp/B08DHS44PF

I see it for half that price on AliExpress.

[matt1ptkn]

Thank you for putting in all this effort and sharing your experience. I have considered getting one of these cheapos, but always shied away from it because of the lack of information/directions. I now may reconsider.

[Lionel15000]

Hello Coelacanth,

Thanks a lot for your effort, i see i'm not the only one having trouble with this ESC, ouf !

I think the first calibration was bad, because now, my neutral is not at the center of my transmitter, i bought the program card, like you, but i can't do a new procedure to calibrate neutral, full gaz and full brake...

An idea or it's too late the error is fatal ? It's not possible for me than this ESC have just 1 chance of calibrate...

Thanks

[Coelacanth]

I think the first calibration was bad, because now, my neutral is not at the center of my transmitter, i bought the program card, like you, but i can't do a new procedure to calibrate neutral, full gaz and full brake...

An idea or it's too late the error is fatal ? It's not possible for me than this ESC have just 1 chance of calibrate...

Hi Lionel,

With the program card, you should be able to reset the ESC to default settings; the procedure I learned was:

1) Connect ESC 3-wire cable to program card;
2) Connect battery power;
3) With ESC powered OFF, press and hold the Reset button on the card while turning the ESC power on;
4) All the LEDs on the card light up for a second, then all settings should be returned to defaults.

You can confirm that it was reset to defaults by comparing any settings you changed with the default settings afterwards.

However, the fact your throttle neutral isn't at actual neutral doesn't seem to be the fault of the ESC. I would re-bind your receiver & ESC to your transmitter after first making sure your transmitter steering trim is set to dead neutral, that your throttle channel is set to Reverse, and that Dual Rate and EXP are disabled. Also check that your transmitter throttle trigger is set to 50/50; on some transmitters, you can adjust the trigger neutral position, for example if you were racing in the old days with only forward and brakes, no reverse...you'd adjust the trigger so that it wouldn't be directly in the middle with 50% of the trigger "throw" in either direction, you'd adjust it so the trigger would go 75% forward and only 25% back, for example...I hope this makes sense. What transmitter are you using?

You might also try swapping 2 wires on your brushless motor and going through all those transmitter settings again to see if that sorts out your throttle neutral point. The neutral issue is likely not an ESC calibration issue but something to do with your transmitter/receiver settings.

[Lionel15000]

Thanks for reply

In fact, it's for a friend, it's not my material, he bought this : https://www.amazon.fr/SNOWINSPRING-R%C3%A9Cepteur-T%C3%A9L%C3%A9Commande-Rechange-Voiture/dp/B08CGHHK3H

I arrive to reset the 17 program of the ESC, no problem for that.

My problem is : When i turn ON the ESC et and the transmitter (or not), ESC is blinking 2 or 3 times every second, and ONLY if i accelerate just a little with the throttle trigger, ESC pass on normally working. I've got gaz and brake, but i don't know if there is full gaz and full brake and when i'm on neutral, motor is runing a little.

It seems i can't do reset settings between radio and receveir.

So yes, there is a TH trim on the radio, but it's not the solution...

Sorry, Electric is new for me, i prefer fuel motor



PS : I prefer my "old" Futaba 4PX !

[Coelacanth]

That's about the cheapest Chinese transmitter you can buy.

Most of those cheapo radios have a throttle calibration procedure where you press and hold the "Set" button before turning on the transmitter, it goes into a calibration mode, and then you go full throttle for a second until you hear a beep, then full reverse until you hear a beep, then neutral...and that recalibrates the throttle.

EDIT: Here's a link to this process with a GT2B, but I think most of these knock-off radios follow a similar ESC-to-receiver bind procedure:

https://hobbiesdirect.com.au/blog/how-to-calibrate-an-esc

It might not be a bad idea to buy a better, non-Chinese cheap clone, unbranded radio. A FlySky GT2E is at least as good as that no-name unit and is only $36 Canadian; I used 2 of these when modding some 1:18 Conqueror crawlers to proper digital-proportional control:

Modding Conqueror crawlers: https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=114&t=44228

FlySky GT2B:

https://www.amazon.ca/FlySky-FS-GT2B-2-4GHz-3-Channel-Transmitter/dp/B00FS2U9BA

The FlySky GT3B has more features, can store up to 10 RC models in memory and is still only $63 CAD:

https://www.amazon.ca/GT3B-2-4G-FS-GT3B-Digital-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B00LP1LYAI

[Lionel15000]

Most of those cheapo radios have a throttle calibration procedure where you press and hold the "Set" button before turning on the transmitter, it goes into a calibration mode, and then you go full throttle for a second until you hear a beep, then full reverse until you hear a beep, then neutral...and that recalibrates the throttle.

Hello,

Yes, i know it's not the best radio but i can't buy another radio in its place.

I don't know too if it's me who are idiot, but the radio don't want to enter calibration mode, i don't find any manual and with your procedure, nothing happen. The ESC must be ON ?

Thanks

[Coelacanth]

I've used several of those el-cheapo clone transmitters and most of those radio systems have the receivers integrated into the cheap ESC's...for those, you usually turn "On" the transmitter before you turn on the receiver (or car's power), and when you turn the power on, it makes beeps and lights to indicate it's in calibration mode--and you fiddle with the throttle trigger endpoints to set the neutral & max throttle in either direction.

The 120A v2.3 ESC in this topic doesn't function that way, however...you need the program card to reset it, after you've first bound the receiver to the transmitter, of a better, known radio system.

Your radio system could even be defective; if that's the case, no amount of banging your head against the wall troubleshooting it will fix it. Only way to know is to try a different radio & receiver and see if that solves the neutral issue.

[Lionel15000]

Hello, sorry for the delay...

Ok I understand, transmiter is very very cheap, i can't do a neutral reset, let's go without that...

Thanks for your help, if i found a solution, i tell you here

[bajajeremy]

Man, thank you very much for this info! I was about to throw this thing out for that terrible startup lag issue. I just couldn't figure it out and then I stumbled on this page. All those ebay sellers of this ESC need to link to this

I'm at level 10 for both start mode and the min forward strength and honestly feels like it could still be punchier but I'll take it. I'm still confused by the 'forward max throttle stroke'. It seems that has to do with the transmitters PWM? I'm using an old Futaba T3PDF FM. I feel like the top speed isn't all there but I don't notice much difference changing parameters. Appreciate if anybody has hints for finding the sweet spot.

Cheers, Jer

[Nefarious]

Thank you so much for your post and taking the time to post it. I had one of the super el cheapo ESCs with no reset button. It did fairly well and my buddy had to have it to match his blue motor, i warned him about it being a no name brand ESC and charged him only half what I paid so he paid me $9! To my surprise its still working in his RC10B3 his brother gave him. That was 4 years ago now! I have had other various qualities of that type of ESC. Including but not limited to an X-Car 120a (very sweet ESC at $25usa, and upgradable firmware to XeRun 2.1 with Turbo or Boost or both-cant remember off hand). Then there was the Fire Pheonix XeRun v2.1 (a fantastic ESC claiming 4s capability, XeRun firmware upgradable, 4 low esr 470uf caps and has a 7.4v BEC option...i havent tried 4s but 3s its great and it was only $35usa). And finally i got another No Name Brand from a seller on Aliexpress that had shown pictures and wrote descriptions that they were selling a Fire Pheonix 120a....BUT i did NOT recieve a Fire Pheonix! Instead I got a full refund and the no name brand ESC , it was capable of taking the XeRun 2.1 firmware and runs 3s fine and has reset button but no 7.4v BEC option and only two 470uf caps.
BUT!
I am now having a strange issue where the No Name Brand ESC runs for a few seconds and then stalls completely then after adjusting the midpoint on my radio it starts running again!
After reading your post I am going to reset the ESC AND rebind and recalibrate my Spektrum SLT3 then recalibrate the ESC.
If that doesnt help I will reflash the firmware to its original firmware that i backed up and cross my fingers!

thank you again for thr post, i have the Program Card you mentioned , I am using a Hobbywing LCD with iall 3 ESCs now but will try that card you mentioned on the No Name Brand ESC if i end up reflashing the firmware back to original.