bigjeepzz wrote:
On a side note, someone mentioned that the bellcranks looked to be buggy cranks. They have Houge printed on the cranks. Will this create a problem for me or will everything be good to go? If I need to buy different cranks, please let me know.
Hey Jake, it's Steve from DRM
Those bellcranks are buggy bellcranks, but Associated switched to the shorter bellcranks for the RC10T2. Just countersink the two holes that sit in front of the stock ones and use some flathead screws to mount them there. Then use some shorter screws in the stock location to mount the front plate. The shorter bellcranks give better steering response; the T3 and T4 also use shorter bellcranks as well.
The front bulkhead and T2 front and rear arms are still available from Associated, or any hobby shop or website. The arms will fit the 10T without modification, all the geometry is the same. RPM arms are still available too. The RPM arms are a little more flexible, barely, and might be a bit heavier, but I'd be willing to bet they are more resilient than the Associated arms (of course I have never broken either type, but stronger is stronger).
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2914&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2913&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2975&P=M
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEU88&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEU83&P=7
The RPM parts come in blue as well, as do their front bumpers, rod-ends, and body mounts.