Hey guys, I just bought an RC10T. The truck is in ok condition and is definately going to need some work done to it. The front arms are from something other than an RC10T and are crazy wide. The toe in and out cannot be adjusted because the rods are not long enough for the arms. The person also cut the bulkhead to retrofit the arms so it will need to be replaced as well. Other than that the truck is pretty much good to go. All the electronics work and the truck is quite fast.
I raced LXTs against these truck back in the day, but never owned an RC10T. I bought the truck for two reasons, to build a nice truck and to have something for my daughter to race at the local track with.
Here is a pic of the truck as it came. Thanks for looking.
Thanks for identifying the front arms. They definately do not work on this truck, LOL. I am going to tear it down and give it a good cleaning and replace the parts that need to go.
I am not sure about the bellcranks. The front arms are extremely to long. They are roughly 1/2 wider than the rear arms on each side of the truck. I have been looking on eBay for a new front bulkhead and RC10T front arms. Once I get the right parts on the truck I should be good to go. Thanks for the help.
It has been a while but I started working on the truck. As said earleir I basically want a nice truck and I am not too worried about keeping everything perfect. I pulled everything apart from the tub and pulled out my orbital sander. I really went to twon on the bottom of the chassis and the nose plate to clean up the gouges that were in the bottom. I didn't have any satin black paint so flat black was used. It really did wonders for the chassis and it looks pretty good. I am bidding on a front bulk head and arms on eBay right now so I should have the right parts coming in this week. Here are the before and after pics of the tub and nose.
On a side note, someone mentioned that the bellcranks looked to be buggy cranks. They have Houge printed on the cranks. Will this create a problem for me or will everything be good to go? If I need to buy different cranks, please let me know.
bigjeepzz wrote:It has been a while but I started working on the truck. As said earleir I basically want a nice truck and I am not too worried about keeping everything perfect. I pulled everything apart from the tub and pulled out my orbital sander. I really went to twon on the bottom of the chassis and the nose plate to clean up the gouges that were in the bottom. I didn't have any satin black paint so flat black was used. It really did wonders for the chassis and it looks pretty good. I am bidding on a front bulk head and arms on eBay right now so I should have the right parts coming in this week. Here are the before and after pics of the tub and nose.
On a side note, someone mentioned that the bellcranks looked to be buggy cranks. They have Houge printed on the cranks. Will this create a problem for me or will everything be good to go? If I need to buy different cranks, please let me know.
Jake
Hey,glad to see more older 10's, RPM makes a good set of arms that do not collect dirt as much,tower still has lots of the parts in stock. you could get the (wider arms) as well as stock for your truck. have a good one Jake! If I can help let me know JohnnySr.
bigjeepzz wrote:
On a side note, someone mentioned that the bellcranks looked to be buggy cranks. They have Houge printed on the cranks. Will this create a problem for me or will everything be good to go? If I need to buy different cranks, please let me know.
Hey Jake, it's Steve from DRM
Those bellcranks are buggy bellcranks, but Associated switched to the shorter bellcranks for the RC10T2. Just countersink the two holes that sit in front of the stock ones and use some flathead screws to mount them there. Then use some shorter screws in the stock location to mount the front plate. The shorter bellcranks give better steering response; the T3 and T4 also use shorter bellcranks as well.
Hey man how are you? Thanks for the help, I just placed an order for several parts, screws, etc. I ordered the OEM bellcranks but I would really like to keep the ball bearing cranks in the truck. If they do not work out, I will have the stuff needed to convert it back. I ordered a body from Mrlexan as well. I should be set once everything gets here. As I complete other things I will be sure to post pics.
I got some of my parts in and getting ready for the reassembly. Question for everyone, where can I find some titanium turnbuckles for this truck. There are some sets on eBay for the xxxt and T4 but nothing for this truck. Is the lenght of the arms comparable to the 10T on these trucks> Any help is appreciated.
bigjeepzz wrote:I got some of my parts in and getting ready for the reassembly. Question for everyone, where can I find some titanium turnbuckles for this truck. There are some sets on eBay for the xxxt and T4 but nothing for this truck. Is the lenght of the arms comparable to the 10T on these trucks> Any help is appreciated.
Jake
Associated # 1280 Ti turnbuckle kit tor the GT/T2/T3 will fit perfect!
Well, i am still waiting on the some of the parts I ordered so I don't have much going on right now. Because the truck plastics had been dyed black I am going to re-dye the black parts along with the new parts I am getting. In the mean time though, I have noticed some prblems with how the truck was put together and it looks like some stuff is missing or rigged with the wrong hardware.
When I pulled the tranny apart I noticed one of the bushings was missing between the tranny case and the motor plate. No problem here, I firde up the lathe and turned a nice peice out of aluminum. I am thinking about turning three more so everything matches. I know I probably could have saved myself about 15 mins of work, but there is so much more pride in the truck when I make some of the parts myself, plus I think it is fun. I am going to be turning some spacers for the shock tower here in a bit because the shocks are rubbing against the tower when they are fastened down. Sorry for the blurry pic of the machine.
So while polishing up one of my chassis I managed to over polish a have grey spots on a black chassis.
The anodize is still present so I don't think aluminum black would work. Has anyone come up with a way to darken faded dye.
I was thinking of...
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It looks like Caswell may have a kit that would help.
I am not sure if this is just a degreaser, aluminum black and, a sealer.
This is my RC10 I got built a few months ago before I was a member of this awesome forum. Like most of us I was into the hobby back when I bought my first RC10 in the 80's and recently got bit by the RC10 bug bigtime the beginning of this year. All...
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Thanks for all the great comments!! Glad to see other people enjoy my builds as much as I do!!! :)
What are you guys using? I see Jconcepts made a set here but appears to never have produced.
I don't see the usual Ebay suspects either? Am I missing the obvious?
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Just to be clear topshaft and idler same RC10T to T2, differential is difference? I have my 1st of each on the way from the bay so I haven't taken either apart yet.
Has anyone tried welding the older worn out or unused holes to redrill fresh holes. I have an worn chassis with elongated rear holes and was wondering if it has been tried with good/bad luck. And looking for any advice.
New to forum and looking for what and what manufacturers aftermarket aluminum parts will readily fit the RC10T with minimal modifications? A-arms, shock towers, castors etc?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Besides the rear shock tower, all the GT parts should fit on a 10T
GT rear arm mounts don't work either
Then what manufacturer or other models parts will fit?
Does anyone know where I can find an anodized bumper in blue for the 10T/10T2/GT? I saw one somewhere but can't remember were I found it.
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hey yeah
69 is definitely a very popular number for me and my... mmhh cute little rc10gt :lol: as an excuse i could tell ya 6 and 9 were the only numbers i had left on my numbers sheet...but that would be a lie lol
