Brushless RC10 buggy/oval

[Bent]

Ok guys after searching around on here for a bit I cannot find any direct info on running a brushed system on a rc10.

Here is what I have.............

Standard rc10 trans dont think its a stealth.
Full bearings not bushings.
Stock gears in the trans.
Traxxas Velineon 3500 Brushless Motor.
Castle Side Winder (I think its the side winder model) ESC
4500 8.4v 7 cell ORION rocket pack.
84 tooth spur not sure what the pinion it is.
*************************************************
TC3 shocks with speedys springs.
Stock towers and arms and such on the front RPM arms out back.
High torque servo.
Full ball bearing steering
Axial battery tray/straps.
Traxxas TQ radio with Traxxas 3ch reciever


My question is will my set up hold the system I have? Will I have to upgrade the car in any way? Will I get 40+mph out of the set up I have?

Now I know the car is dirty and dusty that will change tomorrow and I am still searching for the tire wheel combo I want. I am ponding the thought of swapping the axle and carriers for some that will accept 12mm hex this way I will have more option with out searching for hrs and waiting days for new wheels.

[Charlie don't surf]

That should hold up just fine, it is the stealth and you would want to rebuild the Diff and make sure it is set correctly as you would likely do with the slipper. I have been running mine with and 6.5-8.5 with no issues. But, it comes down to being built and mantained correctly

[Bent]

Charlie, maintaining is no issue with me. Despite what the pics show. Now how do I know that the diff is set right?

[Charlie don't surf]

By the feel, and amount of slippage when turning the spur gear with the Slipper locked out and the rear tires locked as well. Chances are that if it has some time on it, is due to be rebuilt. But it all depends on how well that is was built- diff rings are all stamped metal discs, so as a result of being stamped on a press they are bowed and need to be sanded flat on both sides with an increasingly finer grit of paper on a glass surface in a non-figure 8 pattern. As does the thrust washers which are stamped as well, and especially in oval the diff action is key to corner speed and can be as much as 2 tenths per lap faster built correctly.

[Bent]

10-4 I will post some pictures tomorrow after I have tore it down. Now that I know everything fits on the car I can proceed with cleaning it up. I doubt I will try and whiten the white trans case though.

[klavy69]

I doubt I will try and whiten the white trans case though.

No need to whiten it up. Looks great like it is and I'm sure the texas dirt won't mind either .

As far as a 12mm set up if you find the old HPI wheels they came with adaptors to fit their wheels to just about anything. Should be a 12mm adaptor on the tree of adaptors to fit right on your axles so you can change over to any rims you find...just about anyway. If I had any left I'd drop you some in the mail but seems mine all have homes right now.
Todd

[Bent]

Toddy Ty for the offer and the info. But that would leave me restricted on the front wouldn't it? The dirt at the LHS was trucked in from out of state from what I have been told. "if you find the....." Todd that is exactly what I am trying to avoid for the 2011 season.

[floodx]

upgrade your NiMH to a Lipo and your set...

[Bent]

upgrade your NiMH to a Lipo and your set...

So what do you think I'm pulling as far as speed, with the setup I have? Everything I read on Castle's and Traxxas site says 40MPH.

[floodx]

No clue unless you time it - here is a link to calc the theoretical max mph based on a specific setup...the traxxas and castle numbers are probably calculated/calibrated (if at all) for a specific car/weight/etc - or could just be the theoretical max too - i.e. using the "marketing" speed calculator.

http://dhrc.rchomepage.com/RolloutCalc.htm

[Bent]

I have no clue on what to put into half of them spots if you want I can give you all the info to figure it out. Cause honestly I'm a lil lost!?.

I have no clue what the gear, trans, or final ratios are. Nor do I know what the motor or wheel RPM is. or where to get the answer. TY now I feel like a retard!

If ya wanna help lemme know and ill get you what you need

[JK Racing]

I have that same motor, I use it in my Blitz ESE. It is a torque monster, dont feel bad giving it some big gears. With a stealth tranny (2.25 final drive ratio), I can easily see you gearing it 24~26 to an 81, maybe a 78. In my Blitz, I gear 25/83 with the big short course tires. Truck is ballistic fast on a 2 cell lipo.

40 mph? I dunno how to get you there, but dont be afraid and start gearing there and keep an eye on temps. Want more speed? Gear it up some and keep testing temps, if your getting in the 170 range, I would stop there to be safe.

If you are going for pure speed (short runs), try a 3 cell lipo...but be prepared to hold on

[Bent]

I have 84 tooth spur right now. An I do not want to pass 40mph or I get knocked up a class. and I wont run with 8th scale cars. I plan to run standard buggy wheels with some custom work tires. I have no clue what the spur is, can find out tomorrow. Thursday will be the soonest I can check and see how cool it is runnin. My track has too much dead grass on it so to garland ill have to go.


I'm currently trying to get me some wheels for the car and awaiting decal but here it is so far.

[PBR Allstar]

I couple quick setup tips running a rear motor '10 on an oval.


get the speedo off the shelf and down on the chassis, move the receiver as far forward as possible, and put the speedo on the chassis behind it.

go to a slightly softer LF spring (try a white spring, that's a 4 lb spring, the reds you have are 5 lb), this will increase the wedge in the car on throttle and help the car turn in nicer letting it settle on the LF in the first phase of the corner (you have a left side mounted battery so that helps)

be prepared to put some lead on the front of the car, I usually ran about an ounce, I'd move it to the right side to tighten up the car, and the left side to free it up.

Also try a little stiffer RR spring, like a green 6 lb or a purple 7 lb, this will help the car rotate with all that weight of the brushless motor out back, it will also keep it from rolling off the LR and unloading it.

Like Reggie said diff tuning is super sensitive on a dirt oval car, and it's just as important, if not moreso on a '10 with a higher C.G. and a rear motor. if you're still fighting a tight car, or the LR is unloading (coming off the ground and spinning freely mid corner) try tightening the diff a little bit, this will keep power to the RR which will keep the car rotating in the corner.



My starting point for RC10's suspension wise on an oval has lately been:

RF:
15 degree caster block
-1 degree camber
6LB spring
35 wt oil #2 piston

LF:
10 degree caster block
+0.5 degree camber
3LB spring
50 wt oil #2 piston

RR:
0 degree arm mount
0 degree carrier
-1 degree camber
7LB spring
35 wt oil #2 piston

LR:
0 degree arm mount
1.5 degree toe in carrier
0 degree camber
5LB spring
35 wt oil #1 piston (the #1 piston lets the suspension drop a little quicker which I like, although sometimes it would get a little "bounce" to it depending on the track and how the car would settle out on the exit of the corner)

I would run the rear of the car about .550" to .600" and the front usually ended up about .030" lower than that, although if it was a loose dirt track sometimes I'd run it level or nose up to help the car exit harder.


Make sure all your shocks are smooth with good pistons and not loose sloppy ones, all your hinge pins are nice and free, make sure your plastic is all tight and smooth (if it's sloppy or sticking all the setup in the world wont help) Put a spoiler on the back of the body too.

From there I would usually tune with cross weight in the car, static weight, diff, and RF spring rate.

[Bent]

PBR I don't know what to say other than Thank you.

Now as far as the car having a wing I had planned on that and am still planning that but I also have to get a different body DODC Rules will not allow me to run this body. Yes I plan to make a few DODC races this year and not just play at the shop 1ce a week. I plan to make a trip to Indy and see how it does right now then I will slowly get all the new parts that you have listed. But as I mentioned I need to get me a DODC approved body, plus the EDM needs a body and if things go as planned I will be getting me a B3/CW Sprint car. I will let you know PB how things go when I get out to Indy.