4wd RC10
4wd RC10
So I have question to ask all my fellow forum members, if MIP has decided not bring back the 410 legend why don't we just do it on our own? Now I am not saying I or any one member has the skill to pull this off on their own but it would seem that together we should be able to come up with something! I know we have a couple machinist members on this board, maybe we could come up with something. What do you all think?
- Lonestar
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Re: 4wd RC10
There's always been a lot of interesting (see "testing the waters" thread or sthing like this, about 15 pages long)... What always missed in the end was someone to leap forward and make it happen (and take the risk of course)...
you stepping up to the challenge?
Paul
you stepping up to the challenge?

Paul
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- jwscab
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Re: 4wd RC10
the problem comes down to anytime there is an able and willing machinist, other items get higher priority, such as stealth cases, new wider arms, things like that.
as far as an MIP set up is concerned, you could pick up suitable replacement parts from modern cars quite easily(except for the front trans case) but the issue is that once you 'make your own' it's still not the 'genuine' original and by the time you get the parts made, assemble a kit, and add it all up, and compare that to it's actual performance, you figure out it's not worth it to try make a bunch to sell.
so the trickiest part would be the front trans case. You can use a standard stealth trans in the rear, make a new mid shaft for the idler. SDP-SI or a number of cars today have 3mm HTD pulleys. You'd need a pair. One option to make the front case would be to chop the top off of a stealth case because you don't need the top gear. Use something like B44 front CVD and hub carriers and spindles, though you'd probably have to shorten the CVD bones. Then fab up an idler (or two), figure out a belt length necessary, find a suitable one (available almost every tooth count from SDP-SI) and away you go.
as far as an MIP set up is concerned, you could pick up suitable replacement parts from modern cars quite easily(except for the front trans case) but the issue is that once you 'make your own' it's still not the 'genuine' original and by the time you get the parts made, assemble a kit, and add it all up, and compare that to it's actual performance, you figure out it's not worth it to try make a bunch to sell.
so the trickiest part would be the front trans case. You can use a standard stealth trans in the rear, make a new mid shaft for the idler. SDP-SI or a number of cars today have 3mm HTD pulleys. You'd need a pair. One option to make the front case would be to chop the top off of a stealth case because you don't need the top gear. Use something like B44 front CVD and hub carriers and spindles, though you'd probably have to shorten the CVD bones. Then fab up an idler (or two), figure out a belt length necessary, find a suitable one (available almost every tooth count from SDP-SI) and away you go.
- 8rad
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Re: 4wd RC10
It would not be difficult to do but it would have to be a labor of love and not for profit. A repro kit will not fetch much dollar and the extra time and money it would take to make it an accurate repro would not be worth it IMO.
I think a build thread with different ideas on how to accomplish a 4wd Rc10 would be far more beneficial to the group.
Personally I dont care if the box says MIP. I am in it less for the collecting than the building/driving.
I think a build thread with different ideas on how to accomplish a 4wd Rc10 would be far more beneficial to the group.
Personally I dont care if the box says MIP. I am in it less for the collecting than the building/driving.
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- Phin
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Re: 4wd RC10
If I were to do a custom 4wd conversion kit instead of trying to replicate the MIP 4-10 front tran case, and using a stealth/sp-1 rear tran to drive that front tran box, I'd go with a whole new rear trans that was more purpose built for driving a front diff.
I'd use a simple trans case design like those of the Trackmaster belt-drive, or TPS chain drive, with two pulleys on the top shaft directly driving a rear and front diff harvested from a touring car. Also instead of trying to find or mod CVDs of the correct length, I think it would be simpler to design a new kick-up that changes the front width in order to use arms and shafts from a modern car.
I'd use a simple trans case design like those of the Trackmaster belt-drive, or TPS chain drive, with two pulleys on the top shaft directly driving a rear and front diff harvested from a touring car. Also instead of trying to find or mod CVDs of the correct length, I think it would be simpler to design a new kick-up that changes the front width in order to use arms and shafts from a modern car.
- jwscab
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Re: 4wd RC10
check out the 'weapon X' thread I put together. The trans/case/ider/rear bulkhead/arm mount is from an E-4TEC which was a 4wd touring car. All you need is a front bulkhead and diff to make a mid 4wd buggy.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=16813&hilit=weapon+x
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=16813&hilit=weapon+x
- lexus-5
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Re: 4wd RC10
Wonder how hard it would be to cannibalize say a Yokomo YZ10 and mount on a RC10 ?
Remember it's either a runner or a shelfer. Everything else is just parts.
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Check out my Gallery for more Collection Pictures http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=20697
Re: 4wd RC10
All good ideas! The reason I say base it off of a 410 legend is just because it's been done before. If we could use off the shelf parts it would be alot cheaper to do. I think a front tranny case would still have to be made.
- shodog
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Re: 4wd RC10
If a company that has the resources to do it, decides not to then you know its just not worth it. There are plenty of fantastic purpose built 4wd buggies out there. The reason the mip kits are popular now is their rareity and exhorbitant cost back in the day. Everything is just a copy or hack job
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Re: 4wd RC10
That's what most cars were like at the track back then too!shodog wrote:Everything is just a copy or hack job
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- Phin
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Re: 4wd RC10
The front trans case can be as simple a design as the rear. Following the Trackmaster belt trans design again it can be just two CF or alum plates that hold the front diff and bearings in place...and mounted onto the RC10 chassis by two very simple brackets that are just pieces of alum bent 90 degrees.
For arm mounts I'd first try out chopping up the front bulkhead of a B4 then try to find arms and CVDs that can match up for a legal front width. Once you find that you build a kick-up that holds the front all together and mounts onto the RC10's tub.
For arm mounts I'd first try out chopping up the front bulkhead of a B4 then try to find arms and CVDs that can match up for a legal front width. Once you find that you build a kick-up that holds the front all together and mounts onto the RC10's tub.
- Goatless
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Re: 4wd RC10
I would have to go with a shaft driven car as opposed to a belt or chain. Converting pieces from a B44 or even a TC3/4 wouldn't be that difficult to do. It would surely be a frankenstein of sorts, lol.
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- ROH73
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Re: 4wd RC10
I've always been very impressed with this B3 4wd build from a few years ago: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=8224
- Phin
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Re: 4wd RC10
shodog wrote:If a company that has the resources to do it, decides not to then you know its just not worth it. There are plenty of fantastic purpose built 4wd buggies out there. The reason the mip kits are popular now is their rareity and exhorbitant cost back in the day. Everything is just a copy or hack job
Definitely agree that it's not worth it to start producing conversion kits for profit.
My thing though is for less than what some people pay for a MIP 4-10 they can get a 4wd conversion kit built custom. In my book anyway, a custom hack job that works is just as cool as a rare part and a thousand times better than a repro.
Belts are easier because they can ride above the batteries and electronics in the tub....shaft drive would have to ride low and wouldn't leave enough room in the tub for anything else. You could go for a custom chassis but by that point you're well into whole new car rather than conversion kit.Goatless wrote:I would have to go with a shaft driven car as opposed to a belt or chain. Converting pieces from a B44 or even a TC3/4 wouldn't be that difficult to do. It would surely be a frankenstein of sorts, lol.

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