can we do a JRX "tips, tricks, re-fits and how-to's" thread?

[perry]

...or is there one already and I haven't seen it?!

I was going back and reading that traxxas bandit sliders can be fit very easily to replace the stock losi ones, and realized there isn't a consolidated thread for all of the retrofit, and compatible parts.

I was hoping to get that going, and if you guys could help me by giving me links or posting up what you know, I will try to edit the first post to reference information. I just don't know any of that information, and I figured there is probably a lot that you guys do know that could be shared.
here's the Bandit slider axle info:

One thing I found out last night (on this forum actually) is that the Traxxas Bandit uses (almost) the same slider axle. From what I read I'll have to modify the pin hole slightly to fit the yoke, but I can deal with that. A set of Bandit axles is going to be around $6 (compared to $30+ for a set of white sliders), and my local shops might actually have it. The plastic isn't 20+ years old, it's new, and it's designed to hold up with newer technology...and from what I've seen so far Traxxas stuff is usually pretty durable.

[GoMachV]

Generally you would just start a thread and use a title that gets people in and posting. Once it takes off, try for a sticky

[LosiXXkid]

Generally you would just start a thread and use a title that gets people in and posting. Once it takes off, try for a sticky

Come on! The Losi Forum needs at least one sticky - the RC10 guys have loads going on...

[mytimac]

#1 tip of all time.
Always run your molded chassis Losi with the top brace securely fastened on.

[perry]

#1 tip of all time.
Always run your molded chassis Losi with the top brace securely fastened on.

Of course, we wouldn't have to worry about it so much if "someone" could make a re-pop chassis to replace it with.
If you guys are willing to post up your ideas, tips and knowledge, I will try to consolidate all of it into a new thread and ask for a sticky.

[mytimac]

Of course, we wouldn't have to worry about it so much if "someone" could make a re-pop chassis to replace it with.

I shudder to think of the tooling costs for that one. The XX front bulkhead is scary enough at this stage.

[clm]

Just reproduce the jrx pro graphite chassis and lengthen the back and add the extra holes so it can be used on the lxt as well

That should suit 6 kits right there, everything except the jrx2. Although likely only for runner use.

Chris

[geeforce59]

Just reproduce the jrx pro graphite chassis and lengthen the back and add the extra holes so it can be used on the lxt as well

That should suit 6 kits right there, everything except the jrx2. Although likely only for runner use.

Chris

That's great, maybe i can have one of those jrx pro chassis

[biff85ta]

Just reproduce the jrx pro graphite chassis and lengthen the back and add the extra holes so it can be used on the lxt as well

That should suit 6 kits right there, everything except the jrx2. Although likely only for runner use.

Chris

LXT and Pro SE have narrow chassis. Not a big deal on the LXT but the the Pro SE body won't fit over the the Pro chassis.

[clm]

LXT and Pro SE have narrow chassis. Not a big deal on the LXT but the the Pro SE body won't fit over the the Pro chassis.

True, but it is easier to remove material then add it, a chassis cut to wide specs is less then half inch away per side from narrow, which could be slight extra cost or a diy thing. Alternatively you just run a junior 2 body as you are building it to run instead of restoring it moving from molded to carbon, it would be the one size/shape that would be usable on most of the early cars.

Chris