My current kind-a-ultima runner

[Mr. ED]

I'm just putting up a couple pics of the cars I ran during my radio-silence.
There were more, but these are the only ones which are still presentable.

And finally: my current runner.
I took an easier road on this one and used the A&L transmission designed for this car.
Also went back to a double belcrank for the steering system: slightly modified version of the academy wyvern ones as I have a large stock of those.
this way the servo sits further back= better centered. shock mounts are Losi parts, and shocks from 2 different Tamiya models link them to the arms: RPM for Losi in the front and ... RRP? for the optima in the rear. Academy universals for the extra width and standard ultima rear hubs.
The rear is legal, but the front needs some reworking: too wide
The front axles are standard and use 8mm bearings and older shumacher wheels

[Hcp22]

Nice

[Mr. ED]

You could see the pictures?

I did something wrong; some people couldn't see them.
Should be fixed now

[Mr. ED]

just noticed I forgot to add the top shot showing off the new layout:

[Coelacanth]

Nice, I like that steering layout...looks like how I set mine up with the OptiMutt car, with the servo horn inboard instead of the usual, outboard orientation. Keeps things nice and tight on the inside.

[JK Racing]

Which rear arms are those? Trying to help a local racer take my former Ultima 2 into our vintage class, but he is (like me) stubborn and wants to use his RB6 wheels. Front we have done, but the rear we are fighting. He is attempting either 60.5 or 62.5 RB5 CVDs with RB6 carriers on stock arms and a thick hex to get the rear width up to legal par.

I know you have tried many combos on the K car, what seems to work best with modern/available 2.2 rear hex wheels?

I dont want to derail this thread...I have always loved reading up on your kyosho build ups, I just know you are the one who can answer this

[Mr. ED]

Hey Joey,
Those arms are aftermarket ones for the optima.
Using those arms is not so easy though: shockmount points are further back than on stock ultima arms.
The easiest way to gain some width would be to use the standard ultima arms with optima rear axle carriers.
You should be able to make the 62.5 mm cvd's work with that. At the worst you 'll need to use the longer axles and put the spacer at the inside: between the bearing and cvd joint.

[RichieRich]

I used the 60.5mm cvds along with some spacers, laser drive hexes and an A&L transmission. The out drives are longer than the stock ultima transmission which means shorter cvds. Also, I used original RB5 rear wheels. This is important as the newer RB6 and Laser rears have a different offset.

[JK Racing]

He did the 60.5 bones and 3 line axles, 2mm spacer inside and a +2mm hex outside. He measured everything up and said it works perfect for him. I'll try to get a measure on it overall with the RB6 stuff. He hasnt built his ZX6 yet, so I am sure he doesnt have those wheels with tires yet (if they are different).