SFC K's RC10 Worlds build

[SFC K]

I broke down and bought the Worlds kit. I was going to go with the mono shock up front that I got from Jeff (Thanks Again! ) but after mocking it up, realized the front tube supports were going to be in the way and not having them on their just looked funny. Any way, going to build this kit stock for now and find a different chassis for the mono set-up.




I did have some issues with the Stealth trans but faxed my concerns to AE, so with luck I will be getting the replacement parts. Thanks to all the info on here on what to look out for really helped me key in on these issues from the start of the build.

I ordered the four 1/4 x 3/8 x 1/8 Flanged Metal bearings for the Steering rack from Avid for a buck each. Best deal on the web that I could find for this size.

Only thing that was a real pain was building the links. I used a technique that seemed to speed things up and worked really well and save me from having cramped fingers. I took a small Channel lock pliers and wrapped both jaws with a some electrical tape for gripping the ball ends. For the links, I took chap stick and put a little on the threads of the links. This helped screwing the ball ends onto the links effortlessly using the plastic AE link adjustment tool that comes with the kit.



My work space is a mess as I have two RC's sitting on the bench.

[GoMachV]

Hmm, I'll have to look into the mono shock mounts, they are a direct copy and should fit with the tubes. Mine are on a carbon chassis so I've not seen an issue. Maybe I can play with the length a little

[SFC K]

Thanks Jeff! They fit but I was worried that when the suspension was going through it's motion the shock would rub on the upper portion of the tubes. I should have had everything mounted and hooked up and tried it. Maybe they would have been fine.

[bully]

Interesting build mate.. The molded tools you get with some ae kits have one wrench for the wheel nuts an on the opposite end is an opening for rod ends to slip in then you just use the other tool for the actual turnbuckle,makes it easier but I must say I haven't tried it on the smaller rod ends.. Something to keep in mind,I have one I opened up a bit for the rpm rod ends and another one I use for the standard kit rod ends..

[JK Racing]

I have used this trick with the moulded tools

[SFC K]

Interesting because I tried that tool and the hex portion of the ball end would fit but the ball cup portion would not. I just tried it using the plastic tool even though the ball cup does not slide into it, and prefer the channel locks.

[JK Racing]

I did give it a good push - guess it loosens up over use, cause its a breeze now...3 cars later

[bully]

Yeah they are very tight to get in and to be able to get it off once done you have to slide it off over the ball cup end.. I opened mine up slightly on the inside edges with a hobby knife basically chamfering the edge.. The flat on the bottom of the opening for the ball studs and the top flat hex and top of ball cup section is what goes in the opening in kit wrench and it helps if they are tight... Jk that is exactly how I do mine except I use the plastic or another turnbuckle spanner instead of the vise grips... It took me a few rebuilds with pliers wrapped in tape before I thought of trying the ae plastic tools. Can't remember if it was even in any of the manuals I have used,seems like it should be but..

[MCKNBRD]

Hmm, I'll have to look into the mono shock mounts, they are a direct copy and should fit with the tubes. Mine are on a carbon chassis so I've not seen an issue. Maybe I can play with the length a little

Hmmm...kinda looks like an idea I was playing with. Links to more info? (PM would work, too)

Thanks!
Byrdman

[shodog]

Back in '96 my HPI RS4 came with a tool that looks similar to a Tamiya wrench but has a socket to slide a ball link into it. I've used it to build countless cars.

[bully]

Shodog mate that is cool ,I am sure I had one of them somewhere..

[SFC K]

Finally after over a month of waiting AE sent me replacement parts!

They actually sent me two top shafts too. Not sure why but I will take it.

Case part # 6565-001
Idler shaft and gear part # 6570-001
Top Shaft B4/T4 part # 9601

If anyone is having the same issues it is definitely worth the effort. I faxed over a customer support form and emailed them a couple times with great results.