Need NitroDS gearing info
- JK Racing
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Need NitroDS gearing info
What clutch bell/spur came on the Nitro DS?
--Joey --
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Re: Need NitroDS gearing info
22T clutch bell and a 56T spur were stockJK Racing wrote:What clutch bell/spur came on the Nitro DS?
There was an optional 24T spur as well as a 54T spur available for it.
- JK Racing
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Re: Need NitroDS gearing info
I finally gave in and read the manual...and ordered a 22 clutch (56 spur is on the car). Problem I have is the car came with an unmounted motor (from a GT), the clutch bell bearings are different, the NDS clutch bell is smaller overall (the clutch itself is too large), and the flywheel is spun. Sheesh....turning into a tough time just to mount up a motor.
Things cant always be easy
Things cant always be easy

--Joey --
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Re: Need NitroDS gearing info
The manual should have the size bearing you need for clutch bell. The GT and the NDS share many of the same parts so the clutch bearings should work.JK Racing wrote:I finally gave in and read the manual...and ordered a 22 clutch (56 spur is on the car). Problem I have is the car came with an unmounted motor (from a GT), the clutch bell bearings are different, the NDS clutch bell is smaller overall (the clutch itself is too large), and the flywheel is spun. Sheesh....turning into a tough time just to mount up a motor.
Things cant always be easy
Are you definitely sure it came from a RC10GT?
I just swapped out the NDS 24 tooth clutch bell for a GT 15tooth clutch bell; the bearing size is the same and mounted with no issue.
The bell diamter is the same on both; the only different is that the NDS has more teeth on the bell.
The clutch shoes are stock associated shoes that work on either the NDS or the GT.
On thing to keep in mind now that we are talking differences....the NDS header and the GT header are not the same.
The NDS exits the exhaust port at a high angle as it bends around engine. This is due in part to the tires being closer to the chassis; the higher angle allows the rubber tires to clear the header when the suspension compresses. keeps the tires from melting

The GT header exits at a lower angle since the tires are far away from the chassis due to the longer arms. There is no tire/header clearance issue on the GT.
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Re: Need NitroDS gearing info
Using the 'sport' canister exhaust 
I've pulled a motor directly off a GT and things just dont line up good for me. Both clutch assemblies are larger than the DS bell I got directly from AE. Maybe both flywheels/clutches are not AE? Not sure. I have a parts bin I am going to dig into this coming week/weekend and see if I can find all the random parts I need to get a motor put together and installed.
Thank you for the guidance.

I've pulled a motor directly off a GT and things just dont line up good for me. Both clutch assemblies are larger than the DS bell I got directly from AE. Maybe both flywheels/clutches are not AE? Not sure. I have a parts bin I am going to dig into this coming week/weekend and see if I can find all the random parts I need to get a motor put together and installed.
Thank you for the guidance.
--Joey --
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Vintage A&L and Factory Works
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Re: Need NitroDS gearing info
Nice on the sports canister...JK Racing wrote:Using the 'sport' canister exhaust
I've pulled a motor directly off a GT and things just dont line up good for me. Both clutch assemblies are larger than the DS bell I got directly from AE. Maybe both flywheels/clutches are not AE? Not sure. I have a parts bin I am going to dig into this coming week/weekend and see if I can find all the random parts I need to get a motor put together and installed.
Thank you for the guidance.
My first NDS has the sports canister. I left it stock and just upgraded the car to full bearings, added a new era GT chassis brace/roll bar, and converted front axle knuckles to accept 12mm all around.


here is the clutch bell and flywheel

For the most part i like to use the MIP 4n1 clutch shoe setup and that fits the DS and GT clutch bell fine. The only thing that you need to do for that is trim a little off the flywheel pins so that they dont interfere with the clutch spring.
Good luck on your search for parts, hope to see you up and running soon.
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Re: Need NitroDS gearing info
I actually worked on it a bunch over the past couple days. The motor even fired up....once
The old OS CZ leaks fuel out of the crank case by the flywheel. So...I will keep collecting and getting things together and muster up the cash and plot for a fresh/new motor. I have the Trinity one piece blue motor mount to put in, but my motor is a pull start and I dont have a starter box (yet).
Depends on the deal I get, if I go pull or non-pull start.
I really cannot wait to finish this up and get it run

Depends on the deal I get, if I go pull or non-pull start.
I really cannot wait to finish this up and get it run

--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
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Vintage A&L and Factory Works
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- JK Racing
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Re: Need NitroDS gearing info
I just noticed, your tank is different than mine. Mine opens on the motor side, not the steering side. Sorry for the crop job, I have other things going on that I dont want to reveal yet




--Joey --
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Re: Need NitroDS gearing info
I myself prefer pull starters on my nitro cars. I like to keep gear light and i dont have to lug around a starter box. some deals can be had on ebay if you are patient. Ive gotten some new OS engines as well as Traxxas engines; .12, .15, and .18.JK Racing wrote:I actually worked on it a bunch over the past couple days. The motor even fired up....onceThe old OS CZ leaks fuel out of the crank case by the flywheel. So...I will keep collecting and getting things together and muster up the cash and plot for a fresh/new motor. I have the Trinity one piece blue motor mount to put in, but my motor is a pull start and I dont have a starter box (yet).
Depends on the deal I get, if I go pull or non-pull start.
I really cannot wait to finish this up and get it run
good eye. The original fuel tanks for the GT and DS opened on the motor side. The later fuel tanks opened towards the steering side; that was mainly for easy fill-ups during racing. When the truck would pit, the pit guy would stick the fuel gun through the front windshield of the truck and fuel it that way. it was more cumbersome to re-fuel when the tank opened on the motor side.JK Racing wrote:I just noticed, your tank is different than mine. Mine opens on the motor side, not the steering side. Sorry for the crop job, I have other things going on that I dont want to reveal yet![]()
![]()
I prefer the front so when a fuel tank needs replacing or im restoring a car, i replace tank with the more modern front fill version.
here is a little tip for you: you can swap out the motor mount screw by the fuel tank with a longer one. The extra length protruding from the mount can be used to mount a fuel filter holder. This will tuck away the filter between the fuel tank and the side of the chassis and keep it secure.


ive been doing this to all my nitro cars.
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Re: Need NitroDS gearing info
I'll be swapping tanks, that is a positive 

--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
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