![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
- Lonestar
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
Can someone please explain what's happening here, cat and all?!? ![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
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Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
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Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
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- badnat
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
Hey Paul
I get an issue with Photobucket and The Cat showed up!! If you did not notice it that means i was fast with the fix
![Mr. Green :mrgreen:](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
Nat
(Top Force Evo++ - Lazer ZX++ - Triumph - TRX-1 - YZ-10 94' )
(Top Force Evo++ - Lazer ZX++ - Triumph - TRX-1 - YZ-10 94' )
- Lonestar
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
you guys are all little funny boys aren't you?!? ![Mr. Green :mrgreen:](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
![Mr. Green :mrgreen:](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
- badnat
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
Hello,
So i decided to enhanced a little bit my TRX1 to prepare the next race :
- i moved to brushless (Tekin ESC + Trinity 13.5T motor)
- i changed the lazy servo by a faster one
And i wanted to prevent any futur arm breaking. I saw a post on this site stated that we could replace the front arms by RPM Nitro Rustler arms and rear arms by RPM Bandit arms (with a few mods
).
Furthermore i wanted to reduce the default droop of that car (rear and front) that is appropriate for very bumped formal tracks .. but not really for actual tracks and causes bad handling in the turns.
i bought these items :
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/68CC1469-FF8E-4B1B-BAAD-CAAD515B2605_zpsadplxvgl.jpg)
on the Rear i put some plastic tubes inside the shocks:
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/35C2307C-86A5-4373-B1C0-29C402AB5004_zpskor5trvg.jpg)
and the droop seems ok now (left) (compared to right side):
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/B475F46C-421F-4C82-A76A-0308E5E3074F_zpsuvetg3yu.jpg)
Having a look on the 2 arms (white stock one and the Rustler one), if i want to maintain the wheelbase of the car, i will need the shim at the back :
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/3326B553-EF25-4552-A9C5-5D684383F4D3_zpspco9yi0j.jpg)
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/2C202387-2165-45D3-BDCF-88C3DCBE305D_zpsymz8mzfx.jpg)
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/6BC3823D-96EE-4A9F-A75F-D4F88E0930F0_zpsmqwwfznt.jpg)
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/9938E896-976C-4A89-8F2E-5D03F6CE697E_zpsxaoblg2s.jpg)
The droop is now perfect on the front, with this new arms and without any plastic shims inside the shocks ! This is due to the fact that the bottom shock position is a little much on the outside of the arms (providing a more positive angle).
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/B3F0E7CA-564D-4FEE-ABCF-8E8073544B63_zpsyfzahlce.jpg)
For the rear, i just had to trim a little material from the arms so that the plastic CVD does not touch the arm at the maximum droop.
I guess they won't be any issue if you are using some steel dog bones (A&L / Factory Works).
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/14BA2B49-65CB-4F7C-A2D1-E96BBEAB727B_zpsbu9kvwl5.jpg)
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/3DCCCC70-1FE8-4657-80D0-5174F77AB747_zpsowc7mz5i.jpg)
I just have to try the new handling now
++
Nat
So i decided to enhanced a little bit my TRX1 to prepare the next race :
- i moved to brushless (Tekin ESC + Trinity 13.5T motor)
- i changed the lazy servo by a faster one
And i wanted to prevent any futur arm breaking. I saw a post on this site stated that we could replace the front arms by RPM Nitro Rustler arms and rear arms by RPM Bandit arms (with a few mods
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
Furthermore i wanted to reduce the default droop of that car (rear and front) that is appropriate for very bumped formal tracks .. but not really for actual tracks and causes bad handling in the turns.
i bought these items :
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/68CC1469-FF8E-4B1B-BAAD-CAAD515B2605_zpsadplxvgl.jpg)
on the Rear i put some plastic tubes inside the shocks:
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/35C2307C-86A5-4373-B1C0-29C402AB5004_zpskor5trvg.jpg)
and the droop seems ok now (left) (compared to right side):
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/B475F46C-421F-4C82-A76A-0308E5E3074F_zpsuvetg3yu.jpg)
Having a look on the 2 arms (white stock one and the Rustler one), if i want to maintain the wheelbase of the car, i will need the shim at the back :
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/3326B553-EF25-4552-A9C5-5D684383F4D3_zpspco9yi0j.jpg)
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/2C202387-2165-45D3-BDCF-88C3DCBE305D_zpsymz8mzfx.jpg)
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/6BC3823D-96EE-4A9F-A75F-D4F88E0930F0_zpsmqwwfznt.jpg)
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/9938E896-976C-4A89-8F2E-5D03F6CE697E_zpsxaoblg2s.jpg)
The droop is now perfect on the front, with this new arms and without any plastic shims inside the shocks ! This is due to the fact that the bottom shock position is a little much on the outside of the arms (providing a more positive angle).
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/B3F0E7CA-564D-4FEE-ABCF-8E8073544B63_zpsyfzahlce.jpg)
For the rear, i just had to trim a little material from the arms so that the plastic CVD does not touch the arm at the maximum droop.
I guess they won't be any issue if you are using some steel dog bones (A&L / Factory Works).
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/14BA2B49-65CB-4F7C-A2D1-E96BBEAB727B_zpsbu9kvwl5.jpg)
![Image](http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/badnat62/TRX1/3DCCCC70-1FE8-4657-80D0-5174F77AB747_zpsowc7mz5i.jpg)
I just have to try the new handling now
++
Nat
Nat
(Top Force Evo++ - Lazer ZX++ - Triumph - TRX-1 - YZ-10 94' )
(Top Force Evo++ - Lazer ZX++ - Triumph - TRX-1 - YZ-10 94' )
- Lonestar
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
That's really cool for a runner, and the beauty of old Traxxas - you can do some pretty neat shelf engineering with modern/compatible parts, it's like a big jigsaw puzzle
Watch out for those springs and pistons, now that you've changed all the leverage angles
Can't wait to see the final product![Idea :idea:](./images/smilies/icon_idea.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Watch out for those springs and pistons, now that you've changed all the leverage angles
![Exclamation :!:](./images/smilies/icon_exclaim.gif)
Can't wait to see the final product
![Idea :idea:](./images/smilies/icon_idea.gif)
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
- JK Racing
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
I just got the RPM front arms, but shimmed back like yours, I hit the chassis
- but the bigger problem is the arms are longer than the stock TRX1 arms, making the front end too wide overall, almost a complete inch (20mm or so) wider than my other cars (legal width). How did you combat the width issue?
![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
- klavy69
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
which arms did you get Joey? did you get the 80492? I did this also back when this was posted but picked up the wrong arms first. I ended up with about 1 inch overall too wide also. Don't remember which number I came up to ordering but I went back and searched for the 80492 and they worked for width. I also had them hit the chassis so I split the shims and had about the opposite of what it shows in his pics from France. It didn't line up as nicely but it got the job done. I didn't run it enuf to figure out if I liked it or not but it still handled with the same traxxas push for me.
Todd
Todd
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- badnat
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
Hello Joey,JK Racing wrote: ↑Sat Sep 01, 2018 6:10 pm I just got the RPM front arms, but shimmed back like yours, I hit the chassis- but the bigger problem is the arms are longer than the stock TRX1 arms, making the front end too wide overall, almost a complete inch (20mm or so) wider than my other cars (legal width). How did you combat the width issue?
You have to dremel a little to install the RPM front arms so that they don’t hit the chassis... and yes they are 4mm wider than the stock ones (so total of 8mm for the front). Don’t know the legal width as i just run it in non official race...but i guess it could be an issue.
My concern was more to harden this part of the car.
Nat
Nat
(Top Force Evo++ - Lazer ZX++ - Triumph - TRX-1 - YZ-10 94' )
(Top Force Evo++ - Lazer ZX++ - Triumph - TRX-1 - YZ-10 94' )
- Lonestar
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
it will push like crazy with almost 1cm extra front track, but at least it'll be stable ![Mr. Green :mrgreen:](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
![Mr. Green :mrgreen:](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
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Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
- TRX-1-3
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
TRX-3 arms are a bolt-on (hinge pin-on?) front track width reducer If you'd want to narrow it up front for any reason.
Hope you're doin' something fun.
- jwscab
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
if you run B4 front wheels and associated axles, that should help narrow up the track width to pretty much stock with the extra length of the arms. B4 front wheels have about 3-4mm offset compared to older wheels.
- JK Racing
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
Steering knuckles will need to be changed too, they rub with B4 wheels - maybe the AE steering knuckle too? (now are we deviating from being Traxxas?
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Fit just fine & perfect, I let out some vintage air and mounted up a set.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
- Lonestar
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Re: Traxxas 1 (=TRX-1) [Ready to Race]
the smell?!?!
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
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