(2) RC10GT's - Black Tub and Plastics - #7065

[GreenBar0n]

The head of the bolt is stripped or the threads in the engine case are stripped?

I'm not certain it's stripped yet, but one of the head screws had a few threads from the engine block on it when it came out, so the engine case might be an issue. On any other dirt bike or car, I'd drill it slightly bigger and re-tap it, just not sure what I'd do with this at such a small scale.

[GreenBar0n]

Worked on the new GT for a long time today, the new GT on the right was entirely taken apart, cleaned, and rebuilt. Both GT's are ready for engines.


Interesting how the newer GT tank is mounted backwards. Found some era correct Futaba S3003 servo's that will go in the newer GT.

[Retro rc]

The Oder 1 on the left looks to have the tank back to front to me, you’d never get the lid open to refill in a race

[GreenBar0n]

The Oder 1 on the left looks to have the tank back to front to me, you’d never get the lid open to refill in a race

Not sure what to say about that, here's some pics of the old tank on the left vs the new design on the right:




The inlet that receives pressure from the pipe, is now on the lid of the new tank, as opposed to the rear of the old tank.

[GoMachV]

The new style tank fills from the front window cutout. The old tanks were kind of a pain to fill with the body on through the side window but most 1/10 races were not long enough to refuel

[romulus22]

Some of the racers would re-drill the chassis and spin the tank before the other style was available.

[GreenBar0n]

I think I have everything to get the engine and brake back together on #1.

[GreenBar0n]

On the left is the .12 CV that will go on the stock-build GT, on the right is a slightly older .12 CZ, which will go back on the GT I bought it with in '97.








Cleaned and ready.

[GreenBar0n]

Received (3) NOS Futaba S3003's for the stock GT, #2 build today. $21 shipped, incredible!


Little box dust on these but otherwise fresh as can be.


I was always told to store my nitro cars with After Run in the engine.


But that stuff turned into molasses, and gummed up my .21 motors really bad, stopped a couple from turning at all after so many years.

What's the best thing to put in for storing these days, and please don't say Hobbico After Run .

[klavy69]

What's the best thing to put in for storing these days, and please don't say Hobbico After Run .

After run was meant for running again in the near future instead of storage in my opinion. For long term storage I've used any 1:1 engine fogging oils, Stabil (?) red gas additive to keep gas fresh, atf, etc. as I'm in the central USA where weather can swing 30 degrees in a day without warning so I had to protect alot of mt stuff from rusting when it was stored outside in the garage.

Todd

[GreenBar0n]

I had not heard of fogging oils, found the Sta-bil.

What's the latest short term storage product, for After Run?

Thanks @klavy69

[klavy69]

I had not heard of fogging oils, found the Sta-bil.

What's the latest short term storage product, for After Run?

Thanks @klavy69

Fogging oils would be something you could spray into the cylinders through the spark plug hole. They had a finer mist that 'fogged' up inside the cylinder. Not really sure if thats the correct term or not. Thought it was but just what we've called it around here. I Probably still have something out in the garage from when I had more time and $ for that stuff.

I've seen after run still in a lhs near me whether its still made or not. It never really failed me when I ran all summer long here in Illinois Iowa area but come winter storage I used the above stuff.

Todd

[GreenBar0n]

Really appreciate it @klavy69, I'll be sure to keep up on this in the future.



Was able to get the servos in, and the new receiver mount installed on #2 this evening.


I have (4) RC's that need the Rx battery pack, I have none left. Will probably go with the era correct AA Rx packs.

[GreenBar0n]

Back to #1.

The new 66T gear, brake disc, and hex adapter for slipper inboard hub.


Replaced the old S3003 throttle servo with my last NOS S3003.


Spur gear and brake back to new condition.




The .12 CZ and MIP head/header/pipe that was bought in '97 with the GT, and will go back in #1.


And here's where things went off the rails this evening - the engine bell clutch's. This is the stock clutch, it has (2) shoes.


Here's the aftermarket clutch I found on the newer engine, which was running on #1 on its last voyage, not sure who makes it, the shoes form a solid circle, and there is a retention spring around them:


Would later discover that in order to use that aftermarket circular spring clutch, the flywheel pins had to be shortened just a bit. The problem is the short pins flywheel is stuck on the newer CV motor and it's on there good. I need to swap flywheels so the longer pins flywheel can still work with the stock clutch shoes in #2.



Engine problems:
1. Swap flywheels - might get the Tamiya scratch free wrench for this, unless someone has a better way to pull the stuck flywheel.

2. The newer .12 CV black/red head has a stripped head bolt in the case - There are threads below the stripped section, so I'm going to try a longer bolt to reach down further and grab the threads that are sill available.

3. The newer, and less used engine has a pull start that looks stretched, doesn't return all the way - Going to get a new recoil for it.

Still have to make the new throttle/brake servo horn assembly, can't do that without centering the servo's, and can't do that without the Rx. Might be stuck waiting for parts until Tuesday.

[GreenBar0n]

For the stuck flywheel, I'm going to use a battery terminal/windshield wiper puller, other RC sites say that's the way to go without scratching the parts, or harming the front bearing. Will be here Wednesday.


The Rx battery packs will be here later today, so I can get going on the electronics.