mip trans
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Re: mip trans
I'm not sure what your question is, but the Losi JR era MIP tranny that I have doesn’t change the arm mounting. The inner arm hinge pin mounts to the rear bulkhead and the rear pivot pin support just like the stock Losi best I can remember. Or links if you have a 5 link. Which I never tried with the MIP, but it should work I would think.
BTW, the MIP instructions are posted in the scans archive:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6712
Let me know if I can help.
BTW, the MIP instructions are posted in the scans archive:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6712
Let me know if I can help.
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Re: mip trans
Glad to help. What car do you have it in?
Oh, and welcome to the site. It is an amazing place.
Oh, and welcome to the site. It is an amazing place.
- Asso_man!
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Re: mip trans
and I would kill someone for that MIP tranny 

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Re: mip trans
Oh yeah, well over my dead body buddy.
Oops, I don't think that came out right......boy did I get myself in a mess this time....yikes!

Oops, I don't think that came out right......boy did I get myself in a mess this time....yikes!


- Asso_man!
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Re: mip trans
How do you know?bmhsrh4 wrote:you guy's are nuts .

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- highwayracer
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Re: mip trans
hello bmhsrh4,
When the original transmission is removed, the rear mounting plate just sits there because it's no longer sandwiched between the chassis and the transmission.
To keep the rear pivot block from falling out, you need to use a pair of 8-32 low profile nuts. I used regular steel nuts without the nylon insert. One thing I had to do was file one of the hex edges so that the nut was flush with the pivot block. I also had to file a small part of the chassis so that it was able to fit flush against the chassis.
When I think about this now, I could have probably saved a lot of time just by using different hardware. If I remember correctly, the Associated RC10L used some really small 8-32 nuts on the front end. These had the correct thread, but were only 1/4 in diameter. You may want to look for this insted.
Regards,
highwayracer
When the original transmission is removed, the rear mounting plate just sits there because it's no longer sandwiched between the chassis and the transmission.
To keep the rear pivot block from falling out, you need to use a pair of 8-32 low profile nuts. I used regular steel nuts without the nylon insert. One thing I had to do was file one of the hex edges so that the nut was flush with the pivot block. I also had to file a small part of the chassis so that it was able to fit flush against the chassis.
When I think about this now, I could have probably saved a lot of time just by using different hardware. If I remember correctly, the Associated RC10L used some really small 8-32 nuts on the front end. These had the correct thread, but were only 1/4 in diameter. You may want to look for this insted.
Regards,
highwayracer
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