My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

[howaboutme]

I think for the center link you are OK, but for the ones next to them- the inner steering ball joints- you will want to use standard ball cups. If you dont, they will have clearance issues with the inner camber link ball ends. As far as dimensions go, you could download an old RC10 Champ manual (not the Worlds, because Associated messed up on the rere and changed the rear link positions) and use those dimensions. IIRC they are taken from the center point of the ball, so it is easier with the aftermarket cups

I see what you're saying. Would it better (durability or performance) to use the kit cups for the inner and the RPMs for all of the camber links?

Thanks for the info on the RC10 Champ. I'll do a search....

also, I dont think your steering bellcrank nut is down all the way on the left side. I bet the washer is off center and holding it up. They are a PITA to get centered

Nice catch. I think you're right!

Thanks so much.

[GoMachV]

id go tough on the camber links and just use the weaker stock ones for the inner steering ends. Those should be your only clearance problems and although they are really weak, you can still get the better black associated ends if you end up having trouble with them popping off

[howaboutme]

Thanks!

That's what I did. Actually turned out that the RPM ball cups only come with enough for the camber and outer steering only so I couldn't have used it for the inner steering too. Funny how all of this stuff just works out....Moving right along!

[howaboutme]

Comical end to my night doing this build...

I'm doing the shocks and on the step where I am pouring the shock oil. I have a few others but I am (was) using the kit supplied bottle. When I unscrew the cap, I look at what looks like a hole at the tip so I am thinking to myself "great! it's already punctured, ready to pour!". Well..as you all know, it's not. But I just couldn't help myself and squeezed just a bit too much and all of the oil splattered on my face and the table because it separated at the cap...

Needless to say, I ended my night then.

All that was after me on my hands and knees for 10 minutes looking for a darn red o-ring! You know..everyone has lost a red o-ring! I didn't find it and of course AE doesn't include extras. But luckily, good ole Tamiya does! Saved from that....

Always another day...

[howaboutme]

Also...

Noticed that one of the RMP cups seem to be too tight and is causing friction. Any suggestions on how to shave the inside? Just sandpaper? I just don't want to shave too much!

[scr8p]

They'll loosen up with use. If it's really bad, you can chuck up a ball stud in a drill, snap the cup on, turn on the drill and wiggle the cup up and down. Do it until it frees up.

[howaboutme]

They'll loosen up with use. If it's really bad, you can chuck up a ball stud in a drill, snap the cup on, turn on the drill and wiggle the cup up and down. Do it until it frees up.

Thanks! I'll let them be then.

Also, those old instructions are soo cool! Love the photos. Thanks GoMachV!

[GoMachV]

....But I just couldn't help myself and squeezed just a bit too much and all of the oil splattered on my face and the table because it separated at the cap...

Needless to say, I ended my night then.

Hopefully we are at the point where you can look back at it and laugh because.....

And yes, I think we've all been there or somewhere close. I remember trying to bleed my shocks on my first RC10, pulled that shaft down and shot shock oil to my ceiling! Lol

[howaboutme]

Boy I swear my build is borderline comical. Continuing on the shocks, I mistakenly thought 3959 shock collar o ring was 6469 shock cap o ring...Once I found out, I had to switch everything. What an oily mess!

Got it done though.

Why does the kit has so many 6465 shock pistons when you only need 4? I couldn't quite understand the "Racers Tip" about marking the pistons with a #1 for both front and back....What's the purpose for knowing this? I hope your answer doesn't make me realize I made a mistake...

Comedy continues...

[scr8p]

There are different hole sizes on the pistons to aid in tuning. #1 is larger than #2, which is larger than #3.

The pistons are already marked 1, 2 and 3. They suggest using a marker on them to make it easily visible.

[GoMachV]

Each piston has a number on it. You wanted to install the #1 pistons might take a quick count on the ones that are left and see what u have. If you pop off the cap and pop the e clip you at least dont have to dump the oil. The number relates to the size holes in the piston

Oh and one thing your not gonna like... the kits have the wrong the shock spacers. There are thin plastic washers in the kit but what is supposed to go on there are 1/8" wide spacers. I used spare orings in mine, because I was out of spacers. I always forget about letting people know about that. It will let the suspension drop too far potentially

[howaboutme]

Thanks all! I'll have to study up on the use of the different piston spaces then..

The O-rings that you've substituted, are they the red ones?

Also, yay or nay w/ threadlock for the pinion? I put it on my Tamiya HS recently after it slipped and on advice of others. Thoughts for this?

Thanks!

[GoMachV]

I never threadlock the pinion but you have to have a good Allen tool. If your using the L shaped tools it's hard to get it right enough without stripping.

If you go back to the CE manual you will see what I mean about the shock spacers. Since you've already built them you can just go along with the build but if you have problems with the bones popping out when running then you'll need to go back and put in the spacers. I used three orings but the proper spacers are #6466

[howaboutme]

Ok. Thank you.

Your answer reminded me that I installed the pinion to my HS w/o the L shaped tool that came with it and prior to me picking up some hex wrenches. It all makes sense now!

Here's the latest:



2 questions:

1. How best to orient the ESC? The way it's in the picture or 90, 180, 270 from it? I searched on the web a few times but everyone has different ESC's so it's hard to judge. I looked at joey_zrl's old thread and this is how he did it I believe.

2. Do I attach ESC (using double sided tape supplied) prior to soldering? In other words, solder with all electronics in place?

Will move on to wheels, tires and body while I figure out the soldering...Also need to figure out if I will use antenna since my receiver has none...

Thanks!

[OUTLAWD]

Nice progress. I stared at the shock O-rings for quite a while and still got it wrong, luckily I caught my mix-up before the oil went in.

I built mine with the included spacers, and my travel matches Kinwald's setup within 0.5mm, and the bones should stay put, so I'll let it be for now. I picked up extra o-rings to be safe with my last Tower order. Alot of guys use silicone fuel line for spacers, but any nylon washer of a close size should work.

A note on the antenna-less Rx, Futaba indicated they were only good for ~230' IIRC. Just in case you didn't see that