Factory Works C2 Carbon Fiber

[scr8p]

I think I could use the rear turnbuckles if you don't need them.

[NomadRacer]

I think I could use the rear turnbuckles if you don't need them.

I don't see why we couldn't make that work for you.

[NomadRacer]

"Treating" the CVA's to some rust preventative before assembly...

[NomadRacer]

Here's where I'm at with the back end of the build. I have a pair of Worlds re-re rear shocks to use but no springs... bought them, along with some misc. hardware from eBay this morning.

[Jerzi]

Man, I wanna build one of these myself. Looks like your off to a great start. Dumb question; Can you order the chassis plate with the front kick-up or are they flat? What do you have planned for the front nose plate? Is this a runner?

Hi.
I can do an chassis with 30degree kickup.
Only info i need i must it be torsion stiff and how thick it can be.
I can laminate the chassis and you can cut the plate as you wich.
Jerzi

[NomadRacer]

Checking the fit of my front end plastics before dunking them in a black dye bath...

The front arm mounts (6208) and the steering blocks (6225) are spot on for hinge pin fit. I had picked up a tip from @Lonestar that everything thing should be free moving. The caster blocks (6213) are tight, super tight. I had to force the hinge pin in. That is not cool. I dig out a 1/8" reamer and get busy by hand!

[Lonestar]

Checking the fit of my front end plastics before dunking them in a black dye bath...

The front arm mounts (6208) and the steering blocks (6225) are spot on for hinge pin fit. I had picked up a tip from @Lonestar that everything thing should be free moving. The caster blocks (6213) are tight, super tight. I had to force the hinge pin in. That is not cool. I dig out a 1/8" reamer and get busy by hand!

C2CFcasterblocks.jpg

hehe

I was actually recently re-reading the team or worlds car instructions, or maybe it was an assembly guide article that was published on RCCA bitd, and there was a list of what should turn into what. It makes a lot of sense to make sure that the suspension is free, and it isn't mandatory that everything turns into everything. For instance, if the pin is super-tight in the c-hub but properly free in the arm, then the suspension will still work ok. what you want to avoid is excessive slop, which can happen quickly with AE's soft nylon... The issue is that slop doesn't "add up" but "multiplies" instead - not sure how to say it in English, but it kind of compounds rather than simply adds.

In any case, if you did it right, it certainly will be freer that stock while still being ok!

[GoMachV]

Every one of the rere caster blocks that I’ve found are warped inward so the block fits tight. I’ve always had to go in and grind the inner area flat

[NomadRacer]

I had bought 3 sets of re-re castor blocks for the stash... they all suck!

[XLR8]

Much of the molded parts from AE these days is crap. They clearly need to find a new supplier. Some Chinese molders have their act together and some do not.

[jwscab]

Loose is fast.

[XLR8]

Man, I wanna build one of these myself. Looks like your off to a great start. Dumb question; Can you order the chassis plate with the front kick-up or are they flat? What do you have planned for the front nose plate? Is this a runner?

Hi.
I can do an chassis with 30degree kickup.
Only info i need i must it be torsion stiff and how thick it can be.
I can laminate the chassis and you can cut the plate as you wich.
Jerzi

Thank you Jerzi, it's good to know we have a member here who can laminate carbon sheet.
I've been giving some thought to doing a single aluminum plate then having it tempered. I also want to try-out some long front arms (B3 perhaps) so chassis will be very narrow in front. So I will likely do a couple versions before sending the plates out for temper. First things first; I need to scrap-together some bucks to order Jeff's C2 kit.
Nomad's car is looking beautiful and I greatly appreciate that he is taking time to document the build and post everything here. I reckon mine won't be so beautiful.

[jwscab]

you don't need to get plate tempered after you bend it, just get the sheet of aluminum in the T6 hardended condition and bend it in a brake. No problem.

[XLR8]

you don't need to get plate tempered after you bend it, just get the sheet of aluminum in the T6 hardended condition and bend it in a brake. No problem.

Okay, thanks. I used 0.090" 6061 T6 for the chassis plate on the ProSC 4x4 and did not have it tempered but it only require shallow bends along the sides which aren't highly stressed (mostly they just make the plate flat). I was thinking about using the same material for this project but I wasn't sure if tempering was necessary after the 30 degree bend at the nose which will be stressed. If you don't think it will crack then I won't waste time having it tempered. Actually, it is only 30 degrees, my track is pretty tame and I try to avoid hitting the trees. Thanks for the advice.

BTW, not only did the Al plate make the ProSC's chassis much more rigid, I think the increased weight down low also improved the handling characteristics for that truck. It's a hoot to drive now. Really eats rear hub bearings though.

[jwscab]

T6 is already tempered/hardened. You can bend it just fine but you need to be mindful of the bend radius when you get near 90 degrees. For a 30 degree chassis kick though, it doesn't matter, you can simply bend it, just like you did with the other chassis there. In fact, bending the kickup will locally work harden the bend and make it stiffer.