The race version is a heavier duty version of the part like you thought made for the racing part of the hobby. The standard parts would work great for the shelfers to be built. But any way you look at it...they are printed parts and not as sturdy as an injected mold formed part. From what I have read the durability kinda depends on how well you drive. If you are a so so driver like me you might break just as many other manufactured parts as shapeways parts. If you are a good driver and better then you should be good to go. If you like to bash or in race conditions can't stay off the tube, wall, or other cars these might not be what you want to build with
Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
Thanks for the reply i will get the 3d printed race parts, like most drivers I'm probably in the middle(average) im lucky our track has soft piping and most people i will race againt in the vintage class love there buggys and dont take the racing serious so there isnt really much crashing in the class and running 17.5 the cars aren't to over powered its more off a show off your vintage class.
meh... i hit a wall in my ultramolded 10t after swapping out the rpm 30 blocks for these 25 ones from shapeways.
not a spectacular hit... but it would have popped a ballend off on my normal setup.
i didnt know anything about water seal or whatever. but i did ream out the holes and tap the threads, and while doing so the material just felt like it was gonna break.
DemZ wrote:Thanks for the reply i will get the 3d printed race parts, like most drivers I'm probably in the middle(average) im lucky our track has soft piping and most people i will race againt in the vintage class love there buggys and dont take the racing serious so there isnt really much crashing in the class and running 17.5 the cars aren't to over powered its more off a show off your vintage class.
Man, I wish their was a vintage class at SRS in Phoenix.
badhoopty wrote:meh... i hit a wall in my ultramolded 10t after swapping out the rpm 30 blocks for these 25 ones from shapeways.
not a spectacular hit... but it would have popped a ballend off on my normal setup.
i didnt know anything about water seal or whatever. but i did ream out the holes and tap the threads, and while doing so the material just felt like it was gonna break.
I'm surprised to see 3D printed parts like this being used. I've been 3D printing things for a few years and would have to agree that I would expect it to break. Parts not under stress would be ok but I couldn't see these parts being 3D printed and holding up. At least not with the filament I use. Maybe some super strong stuff.
The 3D printed parts people are using from Shapeways are not printed with an FDM printer using filament, they are printed on SLS machines in Nylon. Completely different material and printing process. In my experience, the Shapeways parts are fairly durable, but can never match the durability of molded nylon parts.
Right after I posted the HP article, this popped up in my email:
Shapeways receives the first
HP Multi Jet Fusion 3D Printer!
HP
Today we're super excited to announce a massive step in a partnership that will help revolutionize the way the world looks at product design and digital manufacturing. We have installed the new HP Multi Jet Fusion 3D printer at our factory in Eindhoven, the Netherlands.
In 2014 we announced a partnership with Hewlett Packard that enables Shapeways and HP to work together to take 3D printing to the next level. Today at RAPID, HP announced the first installation of their new HP Multi Jet Fusion 3D Printing System in our Eindhoven facility.
Shapeways just announced they acquired the new HP Fusion printer, which is supposed to print 10x faster than current technologies. I believe it prints Nylon, so we'll see how these parts compare in terms of accuracy and strength to the Nylon SLS parts. Layers are still .004".
Edit: Oops, didn't notice the post above before I posted this
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
Hewlett Packard is getting ready to release its first 3d printer and shapeways will be the first company to use it fro. What I read in an article. Sounds like it will be a game changer for durability.
Here's a really good video explaining how HP's new printer works. I can't wait for shapeways to start letting us print with this. Initially they are working with black nylon.
The process is a lot like SLS, as far as using powdered material, but additionally uses a fusing agent and "detailing agents" to control the geometry, along with thermal curing, rather than just fusing selectively with a laser. Supposed to be 10x faster, and I believe it now that I know how it works.
I could also see how this process could get a lot closer to the strength of molded parts.
I have an 84 Cadillac thats been run 1 time I was thinking of running my 21.5 in. Would I be better off using my old a-stamp car or should I crack into my new re-release car? I have another never run a-stamp 6-gear and never run stealth gear car and...
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keep the Orig and run the re re, cheaper parts compared the orig, but when I got my old graphite team car up and running, never broke a thing though, but parts wise its better to run the newer one as you will never get orig parts cheap. Or if you...
Can they take a lickin' and keep on tickin'? I was thinking about getting one for my kid for Christmas. He can wheel an R/C very well, so it's not gonna be hammered on. I'm just looking for some input.
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Why not? Do the Team kit...if he's a good driver, as you say, it should be an awesome father/son deal. Dig up some older stock motors and learn him about brushes, oiling bushings, etc while you're at it. If it was a few years from now there wouldn't...
How time flies, NIX91 Masami replica has been around for a few years now.
As far as I remember, NIX91 is the first semi-mass production car with 3D printed parts.
I bet many has been driven around.
Can some of us here share their experience...
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They are weaker than the molded parts that come in mass produced kits. Very brittle when cold. They flex some and don't keep their geometry under load very well.
For the guys that have an opinion/experience, how did the aluminum CVD bones (RC10/B2/B3 sized) hold up back in the day relative to the hardened steel or shiny ones? Now that the bones are longer for modern cars, MIP doesn't make them out of...
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I've acquired a set of the aluminum versions by mistake (I thought they were HG ti's). When I had them ID'd, I was told they were typically used by the dirt oval guys not so much in off-road so I haven't tried to run with them in the B3.
Does anyone use whitened parts on theyre runners or just purely for the shelf?
I know there can be strength issues with the white nylon parts sometimes as it is even thou i havent had any concerns as of yet!
Does the peroxide treatment radically...
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no we don't but we have spatula city. the rest of the world is jealous!