Lonestar's RC10 OIN - turned B1M Racing chronicles (Race #3 on P.7)

[Lonestar]

We're going to take the white FRP one, move it to the OIN, and put the black one (might have purchased it from RCCW, but not sure...) on the CC:

Here's comparison of both the above - similar mounting inner two wholes, extra outer on the black one.

Black on the CC - which will go back to the shelf now - till next time

Now - this is the 10T tower on top, and the RPM tower in the back:

you can see there will be more droop, and slightly more vertical mounting points too

[Lonestar]

Need some shorty screws as I only had one... with a little help from my Dremel (always wear glasses, and keep a nut on the thread before you cut so you can clean it right after):

you can see that the lower nuts on the (short) bellcranks were rubbing on the non "lowered" part of the nose plate... Why on earth did the previous owner mount them in the back?!? yes... you got it figured out - because the front holes weren't threaded

Thanks to Brian who kindly sourced me the right tools as part of his B1M kit (I paid extra of course! Thanks again!), I could tap my fist ever non-metric hole...

Also dremeled a notch in the plate so the FHS (no BHS available for now ) will sit a bit further up closer to the plate:

It's a good idea to check that all linkages do work properly - otherwise, call the Dremel to the rescue again!

And we are done for the front, just need to flip the servo and adjuste the turnbuckle length

(TBC'ed)

[jwscab]

I think you will be much happier with this new setup. looks great! Your composite craft buggy looks awesome too, I pull mine down to stare at it once in a while. love the look of that chassis and all the white rpm goodness.

[Lonestar]

Thanks Joe. I'll tackle the rear then the MM conversion then the shocks all around and we shall see. I asked a friend (ca va, Hugues?!? ) to give me a bunch of measurements from the B4, which he has a few of left, so I can think the suspension a bit more.

The CC is such a lovely car... and thanks to your lathe skills, it's even complete I will tear it down and rebuild it fully and properly one day!

More on the OIN later...

[mk-Zero]

Congrats on tapping your first holes based on a king's foot!

The car looks great, Paul

[jwscab]

yeah, it's pretty amazing to think about where all of the little parts I have made have ended up all around the world. Pretty cool.

[Lonestar]

Indeed! Only one in my case, though... but on quite a car I have to admit So thank you!!!

More work yesterday, getting ready to work on the rear end.

First - we were close to disaster...

and we got even closer on that one!

that's an AB btw - so early team car / truck. Not that it matters, but hey I'm slowly mastering that interface, might as well use it, right?

I had done such a nice a tidy cabling job... oh well

this is THE seminal transmission - the blueprint, the benchmark - the perfect design! you can see that zero fluids have spun out of the diff after 7 packs, everything is nice and clean, the diff was built right

And one last one for Mr J.S. so he doesn't feel bad - here's my workbench

[jwscab]

looks like you had a little housekeeping to do on some hinges and pins. Those CVD's should have a ring that hold the pin captive. If you don't have them, you can use some heatshrink tubing over the outside to keep them captive.

your bench is mighty clean compared to how mine get. My WOIN project in particular because I'm pulling parts from various sources, making new ones, and modifying others.

it also looks like I may not have sent you the little 'nubbies' to place in the front bulkhead where the brace tubes would have gone on your CC car.

[Lonestar]

Indeed... I remembere those "protective" c-clips on the UJ's from my B4 days... just plain missing here. Heat shrink will do the trick. Thanks for the heads up!

Confused about that part you are mentioning at the front - you mean, something to fill in the front brace tubes gap in the bulhead to be able to tighten down both screws that hold your aluminium part to the bulkhead? Like, "fillers"?

Thanks!

[jwscab]

Yes, exactly. Like if you chopped off the ends of the nose tubes to keep from collapsing the plastic.

[Lonestar]

Yes, exactly. Like if you chopped off the ends of the nose tubes to keep from collapsing the plastic.

Ok, get it did you do such parts in the past, then? I can't remember seeing them... Would you have a pic, maybe ? Thanks !

[Lonestar]

Aaand we're back from a few days of skiing - now working on the B1M conversion. So it will be a 1M-OIN. Think of a neo-retro Centro C4, I guess

I went for the Deluxe kit. First, the CPD design is great - there is a lot of thought that went in there, obviously. I was very excited when I received my package (especially as it'd be stuck at the customs for weeks first!!! )

And there is also a lot of tapping involved indeed. I preferred to hold both gearbox halves together when tapping the 4/40 and 8/32 threads, this gives a better handle on the parts.

It looks like I got parts from a batch where everything was a bit tight - but after a lot of xactoing, the bearings were in:

Likewise, one can see that the gears sit pretty close together, this will require some breaking/bedding-in before this can spin about right:

Here's the trans assembled, now with a V2 slipper, and that uber-sexy titanium plug from you-know-who

Time to break it in - unfortunately a silver can doesn't fit:

(TBC)

[Lonestar]

So I pulled out an Orion V2-based mill instead - to note, with a 75T spur, the smallest pinion that fits appears to be a 25T.

Remember to always use some kind of washer to spread the load when attaching any motor to any motor plate - the standard M3 heads, be they SHCP and BHS aren't wide enough and will mark the motor plate. I like to use FHS with washers, they are a lower profile than the "fat" lunsford washers + SHCP which are great but sometimes hit the spur.

The bulkhead is mounted and so is the shock tower... on the wrong hole (will be fixed later... duh)

One mod I would recommend to the design is to move that "first" hole a bit higher, and to compromise the symmetry of the part design for future access, so the driver doesn't hit the motor.

The transmission is then slided under the BH... it's a tight fit under there. one MUST used BHS otherwise it's impossible to reach the SHCP head, which is too high.

Then more assembly, the brace is coming in the picture. I'm using SHCP now but later on I will switch to BHS + washers to spread the load again as the heads have marked the plastic significantly.

The more, the merrier - so screw it! (pun intended)

(TBC)

[Lonestar]

Now, to the rear brace tubes - again, after assembling them as-is first, I added some plain washers. There is a significant amount of stress in that area. you can also see the conical (blue) washers on top of the brace now.

Then I realize that the kit doesn't include wing tubes... Well, the original ones are in poor shape, might as well give them a refurb and use them, right?

Before:

After a good spin on the drill and scotch brite:

Now cut and pressed in:

you can even snort the 3d-printed dust with this setup!!!
(wtf?!?! )

Mounted on the car now - beginning to look proper

Fixing the B4 CVD's after a good clean to account for the missing C-clips that could very well have costed me rear RPM hubs (thanks Joe for the heat-shring tip)

And a couple of pics of where the car is at now:

Key learnings so far:
- Use washers to spread the load everywhere you can, the plastics seem pretty tender, and ALWAYS on any motor plate
- Would be great to move that first shock tower mounting hole a tad higher to allow access once all is assembled
- The white 3d-printed parts "swallow" stains like crazy! Work with clean hands unless you want ending up with grey-looking parts like mine
- opening up the motor plate to allow the use of a good ole silver can for breaking in could be a good idea... not all of us have a BL motolyzer of some kind to run a modern mill. And running an older one for long enough means thrashing a pair of racing brushes
- 25/75 is the smallest combo that works with a 75T spur
- Don't use too long rear arm mount screws otherwise they chew up the gearbox (thanks Heretic)


Next Steps: Shocks, Electronics, and if time allows before the race Saturday, new body

[mk-Zero]

Looks fantastic Paul! Thanks for all the constructive feedback too!
What does the width of the motor slot need to be to run a silvercan?