RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

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Kcal
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RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by Kcal »

Hello all, you have inspired me and I recently won this DS http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=10733
I am looking foward to recieving it and also for any help, tips or pointers you may have in the reconditioning and restoration. For those that dont want to link to the bay I have attached a pic below. More pics when I recieve it, hopefully this week!
Attachments
!BU43ldg!Wk~$(KGrHgoH-EIEjlLlecF0BKP)RcVhTg~~_1.jpg
!BU43ldg!Wk~$(KGrHgoH-EIEjlLlecF0BKP)RcVhTg~~_1.jpg (50.15 KiB) Viewed 2179 times
!BU43ldg!Wk~$(KGrHgoH-EIEjlLlecF0BKP)RcVhTg~~_1.jpg
!BU43ldg!Wk~$(KGrHgoH-EIEjlLlecF0BKP)RcVhTg~~_1.jpg (50.15 KiB) Viewed 2179 times

Kcal
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by Kcal »

Well I dropped by the LHS and they had some NIP DS parts so I scooped up what they had in preparation for my new arrival, you know how it goes............ the waiting is the hardest part especially with a long weekend in between.
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P1040855 (Small).JPG

Kcal
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by Kcal »

Well she arrived and in good order today Woooo Hooooo the pics below will show you what I received. The questions to specific pic's are in the captions sorry I am still new at this.
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P1040864 (Small).JPG
P1040863 (Small).JPG
P1040862 (Small).JPG
P1040861 (Small) (2).JPG
P1040860 (Small).JPG
Is this a decent radio?  The radio crystal is 75.830mhz and the receiver is 75.790mhz is the Tx channel 83 and Rx channel 79?
Is this a decent radio? The radio crystal is 75.830mhz and the receiver is 75.790mhz is the Tx channel 83 and Rx channel 79?
How does the dis charger work and how likely am I to electrocute myself using it?
How does the dis charger work and how likely am I to electrocute myself using it?
Aside from replacing the lamp wire leads what would one normally do to revive these motors and are they worth the time to do so?
Aside from replacing the lamp wire leads what would one normally do to revive these motors and are they worth the time to do so?

Kcal
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by Kcal »

No I wasn't going to leave you hanging and for a dicey as the electronics seem to uninformed me (you have go to see the charger) the car is more far perfect then I expected and I feel I did quite well with it. Now before I ask I will say the transmission is a 6 gear, the steering is mostly or all stock and the original wheels are long gone. I plan to clean her up and run her gently any help to get her there is appreciated and do modern 200mm bodies fit as the wheelbase seems slightly longer then the Camaro body she currently wears?
Attachments
Again looks to be little run time on her.
Again looks to be little run time on her.
Smiles far better then I expected especially seeing interior chassis marks.
Smiles far better then I expected especially seeing interior chassis marks.
Are the tie rods and ends correct they look a bit man handled?
Are the tie rods and ends correct they look a bit man handled?
Up dated to 64 pitch and how to find a proper cover what am I looking for?
Up dated to 64 pitch and how to find a proper cover what am I looking for?
6 gear?
6 gear?
Anything special to look for in a battery hold down?
Anything special to look for in a battery hold down?
Motor decent and how to re-black chassis or better to live with it as is?
Motor decent and how to re-black chassis or better to live with it as is?
Are the nose tubes correct?
Are the nose tubes correct?
P1040877 (Small).JPG
I charge my NiCads now with a Leisure electronics charger I bought in the 80's how sad is that.
I charge my NiCads now with a Leisure electronics charger I bought in the 80's how sad is that.

Kcal
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by Kcal »

Last few pics. Oh bother with the battery packs new wire solder extc or not worth the trouble? How would I test the cells to make sure they are up to par? The ESC is a Power Pulse by dynamite and idea on the turn limit? And I am really beginning to have a hatred for double stick tape whats so wrong with zip ties or Velcro they both come off cleanly and easily and look neater.
Attachments
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P1040873 (Small).JPG

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klavy69
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by klavy69 »

Bout the only thing I can help out on is that its a stealth instead of a 6gear and the radio is useable as long as it works but the numbers you asked about aren't the channels. Your channel will match between your tx and rx but your mhz is alot of times off like you mentioned but pretty much is an AM 75 mhz and should have a channel somewhere between I think 60-99. Will leave the techy questions up to those with bigger computer monitors and better eyes :lol: . Just an fyi...I was the one you outbid on this one. Seen it on one of my random ds searches and thru a bid in to keep an eye out on it but just couldn't spend the money on a chevy #3 :mrgreen: .
Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!

Kcal
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by Kcal »

Klavy69 thank you for the information on the transmission, do you think the Tx and Rx are a pair and will work properly together I have not fired them up yet but will give it a try.

Oh and if the #3 body means that much to you please PM me so we can work something out I don't think it fits properly and I wouldn't want you to go without unnecessarily.

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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by jwscab »

the radio transmitter/receiver pair is probably fine, but the crystal's aren't matched. So you'd need a crystal pair at a minimum.

the double sided tape can be removed with wd40 or acetone, and either of them shouldn't harm the chassis, just use caution on the plastic parts, wd40 is better there than acetone, since the acetone can attack alot of plastics.

nice car, I'm really diggin' the DS, and if I didn't already have a stack of cars, it would be on my list to aquire.

to test the cells, check the solder connections, and if they look ok, hook up to a charger and see if they will take a charge, monitor them to make sure none get really hot quickly, and if you have a voltmeter, after a good 15 minute or so quick charge, check for around 1.25v per cell. if they are somewhere around that, they might be OK, but if they are still around a volt or less, they are probably no good. Even if they all charge up OK, they might be pretty worn and only hold a charge for a short period of time. If you have a rig you can try them out it, run it around until the pack is discharged, and if it happens really fast, check all the cells, the bad ones will be the ones discharged the most (like 1 or 2 cells might be .9volts, and the others might still be 1.1 or better)

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Diggley
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by Diggley »

Congrats on the DS!

Welcome to the club.


Just a quick FYI regarding the restoration; I'm confused as to why the rear A-arm mounts are upside down...


They should look like this:
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IMG_5755.JPG
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by klavy69 »

Kcal wrote:Klavy69 thank you for the information on the transmission, do you think the Tx and Rx are a pair and will work properly together I have not fired them up yet but will give it a try.

Oh and if the #3 body means that much to you please PM me so we can work something out I don't think it fits properly and I wouldn't want you to go without unnecessarily.
Different frequencied same channeled crystal sets will work together but will have alot of glitching and not really worth the hassle when you can pick up a matched set for relatively cheap. I've gotten quite a few sets of mismatched frequencies but once you get around someone else theres no tellin what could happen. As far as the body goes I'd pry take you up on it if it was minus one :mrgreen: ...never really a fan of that number 3 but I'd root for Rusty Wallace any time in his heyday!
Todd
Diggley wrote:Congrats on the DS!

Welcome to the club.


Just a quick FYI regarding the restoration; I'm confused as to why the rear A-arm mounts are upside down...


They should look like this:
Hey Diggley, I have a few 'old timers' that used to run with us on wednesday nights that ran the associated mounts upside down...they said it brung the center of gravity down and made a difference... :roll: was the typical reaction...I'm kinda more the 'just run it' kinda guy myself but these guys would do all kinds of wierd stuff to get that extra edge (in their minds more than on the track I think).
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!

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SmallScaleSmitty
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by SmallScaleSmitty »

Regarding the battery hold down strap, here's what you need.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2779&P=7


BTW, sweet ride. I like the Camaro body. 8)

Kcal
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by Kcal »

I wanted to thank all of you for your help thus far; I briefly tried out the car last night in the living room and glitchy would be an understatement. Are the crystals radio brand specific or Tx/Rx specific. I also rebuilt the speaker wire motor, my first time doing this and it seems to work so as Martha Stewart says it’s “a good thing”. When testing individual cells in a battery pack do I have to de-solder them so they are loose or just run the leads + and - ? Does anyone else prefer a stick radio to a wheeled one? It’s my first time running one and it certainly has a different feel and as a fellow American the trigger seems to be in the wrong hand, does one gat past this? On the incorrect A-arm mounts do they get switched left to right or simply flipped. Who makes a decently priced nut driver set or do you guys tend to fall back on the ole Craftsman socket set as I have been doing? Also what are my options for rims/rubber tires? The outer drive shaft/cups have a roll pin instead of the typical floater is this a good modification, it makes removal harder but they also stay put regardless of whether wheels are on or not. Thank you all again for taking the time to help.

Kcal
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by Kcal »

[quote="Kcal"]I wanted to thank all of you for your help thus far; I briefly tried out the car last night in the living room and glitchy would be an understatement. Are the crystals radio brand specific or Tx/Rx specific. I also rebuilt the speaker wire motor, my first time doing this and it seems to work so as Martha Stewart says it’s “a good thing”. When testing individual cells in a battery pack do I have to de-solder them so they are loose or just run the leads + and - ? Does anyone else prefer a stick radio to a wheeled one? It’s my first time running one and it certainly has a different feel and as a fellow American the trigger seems to be in the wrong hand, does one gat past this? On the incorrect A-arm mounts do they get switched left to right or simply flipped. Who makes a decently priced nut driver set or do you guys tend to fall back on the ole Craftsman socket set as I have been doing? Also what are my options for rims/rubber tires? The outer drive shaft/cups have a roll pin instead of the typical floater is this a good modification, it makes removal harder but they also stay put regardless of whether wheels are on or not. Thank you all again for taking the time to help. SmallScaleSmitty thank you for the strap link!

rctenracer
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by rctenracer »

Sounds like you have alot of issues with the DS. First thing i would do is download the manual from the associated site and go from there as far as biuld questions and parts you may need. Also you may just want to get new batts and motor they have may have seen better days. Tools, use what you like to get the job done. radio, you need a matched set of crystals for the JR radio you have. You have a nice dual sport chassis and body post some pics when finished. the associated site also has a topic on how to convert the wheels and tires.

Kcal
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Re: RC10 DS Restoration Rebuild

Post by Kcal »

Hey All,

I am sorry if I mis-spoke I got a beautiful and pristine car for little money and I am more then grateful as all I really cared about and bid on was the car I have the instructions available and I will rebuild it to the best of my abilities. What I was mostly looking for was the amount of wisdom on this you all have accumulated and to try to build something that performs well and looks good on the shelf I don't like the body but I appreciate that this a not so available chassis and that's part of why I bought it and that's why it special to me. I am new here and I do not know how it goes but I asked a lot of questions because I know you all have gone through and dealt with it. When it comes to pan cars I learned by myself and I can build you a decent one but the whole stamped thing has me baffled and I guess I was relying on others to enable me to achieve what I was looking to accomplish. Thank you again for sharing this project with me.

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