2011 Pro Radiant (belt drive MODERN racer)

[JHarris]

After countless hours in the garage working on this car I have decided that it is far enough along to share with the rest of you guys. The car uses original Pro Radiant frame rails, shock towers, front housing and rear uprights. The suspension is B44 in the front, including the front CV's and the rear uses B4/B44 arms (swapped left/right) with RC10 carriers and B44 rear cv's. The shocks are B4/B44. The diffs were custom made by Jake (bigjeepz) from pulley stock I purchased. Jake also made the outdrives and the top shaft. The bottom saddle pack chassis was also cut by Jake and is made to the exact Pro Radiant dimensions. The body is a Mr. Lexan reproduction Boost body.

[JHarris]

Here's a few without the body. More to come....

[JHarris]

This is the last of the initial photos. If someone wants a close up of something, just ask. Also, there is a second car in the works that uses a system provided by BORMAC. I don't know the exact parts, but the rear diff is a Lazer ZXR with an additional pulley and the front is a one way unit. I'm really looking forward to getting that one up and running since it uses a one way, like the original!

[tiger1]

very nice modification drive it and tell us how it goes

[Mr. ED]

Pitty the pictures are tiny and dark: it really looks great but I can't make up much detail to be honest.
Kind of makes me want to build on ahigher level; makes me feel sad with the non-existing acces I got to some machining shop.

[jwscab]

what are you using for belts?

fantastic job! did you guys get pulley stock from sdp-si? what size are all the pulleys, ie, what is your drive ratio?

are you using stock diff parts other than outdrives?

did you modify the front arms, or the front housing, or both?

[JHarris]

The belts were ordered from SDP-SI, along with the pulley stock. The pitch is .080" MXL. The rear belt is 63 teeth and the front is 305 teeth.

The top shaft is 17 teeth and the pulleys are 42 teeth. FDR is 2.47.

The pulleys and outdrives are custom made, but the internal diff parts (rings, balls) are standard Stealth parts.

The only modifications to the front housing is to enlarge the hole for the outdrive with a reamer so there's no drag between the plastic and the outdrives and to dremel the plastic under the pulley so the belt doesn't rub. There's also a thin spacer in the bearing area so the Stealth bearings will fit perfectly since the stock Pro Radiant bearing is metric.

There's no modifications to the front arms, cv's, caster blocks or axles. It is all direct swap. (except enlarging the hinge pin hole)

The rear arms have the outer brace removed so the RC10 carriers will fit and rotate. The arms are swapped side to side because of the sweep built into the arm. The carriers are drilled and there are metal sleeves pressed into the pin hole so that I could use the standard hinge pin. The inner hinge pin hole is enlarged and an RC10 rear arm mount pin is used. There's no modifications to the cv or the carrier to move the cv in or out.

[Charlie don't surf]

When are you building me one

[rocketrandylee]

Jeff, It looks great as I knew it would, I will be glad when you get mine done ( LOL ) You really have this thing figured out, There is No question this car will work and work well !!!!!!!!!! Randy

[Bormac]

This really is a Super Build Jeff. I truly am fascinated with the Boost/Pro Radiant and yours is awesome mate!
Now, where can I get a slipper like that for my car?? Lol!

[AYKBOBCAT]

Simply STUNNING! I'm amazed the B44 arms and CVs fit so nicely!!!

[RETRO R/C]

Tremendous build Jeff, very classy finish on the mods you have done with this.

Would be a treat to drive I reckon.

More power to ya mate.

Cheers

Darryn

[Soncho Ponza]

WOOOW out of this world cool..

[Kayne]

That is awesome Mr. Harris. That is kinda what I want to do with my radiant. I like the slipper set up. I love all the cf parts any chance more will be made? I would love to get my hands on some towers and side plates. I was gonna use all stock arms and hubs upgrade the Bearings and see what modern cvd/cva's would fit. That car is beautiful.

[tiger1]

getting an old car and mod it with modern parts (to max out it's potential) is probably the most fun for RC building