Rc10 b2 issues

[Dave145]

I tried to do everything I knew about to fix this car, but nothing helped. I have an rc10b2 that I bought around late April. Since then I have gone through 4 motors in the back of that car. I have heard that the b2/b3 is still able to be competitive against the rc10b4's, but I just don't see that as being a possibility for my car. For some reason, everytime I put in a new motor, it takes about 3-5 runs to burn it up. The car never has any acceleration, and it goes a little faster that an old Nikko buggy that I have. I have an 81 tooth spur on the 2.4:1 stealth tranny and anywhere from an 11tooth pinon to a 25 tooth pinion. I checked all the wiring, rebuilt the tranny twice, and installed 4 new motors but he car just blew them up. One actually almost caught on fire (it really did, the car was literally buried in smoke from the motor). The motor before that came back with a heat gun rating of 185 degrees. So my question here to all you b2/b3 buffs out there is this: what is wrong with my car? Why does it keep blowing up all the motors. All of the motors were read as Titan 12t motors and the battery is a venom 7 cell. The speed control is an xl5 that is still working in my gold pan rc10 without a problem. I k ow that my diff needs to be rebuilt and the ballbearings everywhere on the car are all shot, is that what caused all my motors to blow up?

[adam lancia]

If the bearings are as bad as it sounds then that'd be your number 1 culprit. Go through the car and replace all the bearings with *good* new ones. avidrc.com has bearings for $1 a piece and they're of a very good quality. Don't be tempted to cut corners on this. Also make sure your entire drivetrain spins smoothly. If not, you'll go through more motors.

[Dave145]

I checked all of the bearings and they seem to be smooth enough. The really bad ones I replaced with newer ones. I tried the tranny and it feels really smooth. Where else could this problem be coming from?

[Charlie don't surf]

The other common thing is that the rear wheels are spaced incorrectly, causing major binding when you tighten the 8/32 wheel nut as it crushes the drive pin against the rear hub-

[Dave145]

At the moment, I don't have any axles for it (they broke when I put htem in my goldpan), but that might have been the problem. I even remember trying to drive it on my driveway hoping to see more acceleration and speed out of it. I went all the way up to a 25 tooth pinion, and still the speed was pretty bad.

[Charlie don't surf]

yeah, if the roll pins are or were bent back to the point of touching the hubs, or the spacing was wrong then you put inward forces on the bearing that are not meant to be there so it locks up pretty tight-

[Dave145]

When I had the car in one piece, I was able to spin the wheels pretty freely without much binding. There was one area that would bind one every 3 times or so. But would that inward pressure really be enough to blow out 4 motors.

[slotcarrod]

You must make sure there is NO BINDING anywhere on the car. Remove the gearcover and pinion only. With all the wheels tightened, push the car across the floor. it should go many feet and come to a stop very slowly!

Adjust the gear mesh! Are you making sure there is a tiny gap between the pinion and spur? There should be a hair of play!

The Titan motor needs to be broken in slowly for a few packs, or you can do the water dip trick! Google "water dip Tamiya motor"!

Your car should rock!

BTW for the price of the 4 Titans and the XL5, you could have gone brushless!

[Dave145]

Very true about the brushless! I don't currently have anyaxles in it, because they broke on the gold pan rc10, so I can't do that now, but spinning the transmission cups, the entire tranny feels pretty smooth. I can't really buy axles right now or else my parents will be p***ed (we already spent $100 on the goldpan and $50 on my esavage). So if anyone wants to donate some that would be great.

[fredswain]

There is a shop near here that had a couple sets of B2 MIP cvd axles in their clearance bin at the bottom. They were $4 a pair! I might not get back up there for another week but when I do I'll see if I can find them.

[Kyosho Fan2]

Patience is the first part of making this into something special. I use B2 now at club and will be doing the biggest indoor carpet event in Europe called the Petit Rc and my car isn't that bad considering last year I made the top 70 before I found another nice modification to make it that bit better.

Firstly go through the manual and build it as per that identically, obviously with new plastic ball joints and recommended Lunsford titanium tie rods (not the crappy associated blue ones).

If on high grip such as carpet take the front B2 wishbones off and get a set of B3 front and cut off the inner lug on the inner front chassis section (your pretty much duplicating the B2 placement of the metal front brace), but also I added another one as per the B3 so look in the manual on this as my mod makes the front end a bit stronger so you wont break the front wishbones as often with this mod.

Then when done I would recommend getting Losi 1042 rear axles and another set of axle washers. I used six in total on each side, 4 on the inner and two on the outer as this give more droop on the rear and gives better jumping.

I would also do away with brushed and buy maybe a Tekin RS Pro esc and say a Losi 6.5 and gear it on a ratio of maybe 81 spur / 21 pinion.

If using NIMH then fine the cars pretty much balanced with those in and down to you how you want the car to jump so move all the way back on the chassis to better the jumping or if you want more steering you move the cells forward and backward (if using sadlle packs) and space in the middle other wise maybe a spacer at either end of the pack should make it more equal front and back.

I dont use rolls bars, just ride height and correct oils in the shocks including a bit of pack if doing a lot of jumping.

Ive done a few other mods (picture attached) and hope you like. Ive redesigned the rear tower so I can use Schumacher wing mounts and also raised the cell bar section on the mount so I can use Lipos and extra brass weight under the Lipos to give more stability.

Im on the pace with 4wd's ( I did a 4wd club final with this as my 4wd had a problem) and finished 3rd so means that I am most definitely going to be competitive against the B4.

[Kyosho Fan2]

Picture of the chassis. I have since then added an alloy front centre hub and rear blue mount as well as adding a B4 slipper assembly and layshaft with the RPM hydra drive cover attached to the car.

[Dave145]

That's a real nice car compared to my b2. I had to take some parts off of it so I could try to run my gold pan. I might have just been running crappy motors and running my wheels to tight. Otherwise, nothing else ever seemed wrong with the car.

[Kyosho Fan2]

Thanks but you can make yours look just as good with a little tlc. Take the car totally apart and just wash the plastics With washing up liquid and a toothbrush and get my personal favorite gt85 which is a spray oil with teflon and hold the tube nozzle againt each individual bearing (which you will hold over dirt or grass) and basically wash all the crap out of the bearings. When all done soak all in enough oil (10 weight should do) for a few hours and then just rub the bearings in an old towell to remove all excess dirt and oils and rebuild the car. Job done and will feel much better.

[Kyosho Fan2]

What would you guys reckon my B2 is worth with new three sets of front wishbones, two sets rear wishbones, left and right diff outdrives, new pair of front whells with tyres attaches and three sets of used but in good condition and a new unpainted in packet B3 shell. This also has since the above picture had a rare blue alloy front block fitted and also as per pics a rear blue alloy block. Also a B4 slipper clutch and layshaft has been fitted with my 3mm carbon fibre rear shock tower. Its a bit quick with a 6.5 in and can handle a 5.5 easily.