Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
- shodog
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Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
This should be a fun project.
The chassis doesn't appear too complicated. Along with the kit I bought a set of the Land Rover Discovery aluminum wheels
The body will be a lot of work. This morning I tried out some new paint I've never used. It's a Boyd Coddington color call Chelzeam teal pearl. It looks fantastic in the sunlight.
The chassis doesn't appear too complicated. Along with the kit I bought a set of the Land Rover Discovery aluminum wheels
The body will be a lot of work. This morning I tried out some new paint I've never used. It's a Boyd Coddington color call Chelzeam teal pearl. It looks fantastic in the sunlight.
- GoMachV
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Re: Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
I think you mean "chezoom" that's gonna be awesome! I too love that color! It changes a bit in sunlight
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Factory Works website
Factory Works website
- shodog
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- shodog
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Re: Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
tamiya wrote:bit wasted on a slabsided D90 Jim... save it for something curvier.
This is what I'm shooting for
- Coelacanth
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Re: Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
I agree!shodog wrote:Yup your right, Chezoom. It looks awesome though
Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
- shodog
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Re: Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
A little bit of progress on the Landy. The body will take the most time so I started it first. For Christmas I bought myself one of the Landy racks from eBay. It needed a little bit of adjustment on the attach points. Drilled the mount holes and bolted it up for a test fit
Next was addressing the mold flashing. There were several area of excessive flash. Plus the roof had some waviness. I filled in the imperfections with Bondo glazing putty. Just have to get some 400 grit to knock it down and sand it smooth.
Since that was curing up I started the chassis. I'm on step 23 in the manual.
Next was addressing the mold flashing. There were several area of excessive flash. Plus the roof had some waviness. I filled in the imperfections with Bondo glazing putty. Just have to get some 400 grit to knock it down and sand it smooth.
Since that was curing up I started the chassis. I'm on step 23 in the manual.
- SFC K
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Re: Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
I love the color choice! Should look amazing when you get done. Keep us posted on the progress! I might have to save up for one of these.
Jeff
- shodog
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Re: Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
I sanded the glazing putty smooth. Then washed the body with Soap and water to remove any residual mold release.
Then sprayed the body with Tamiya fine line primer. This primer is super thin so it doesn't gum up any of the details
Finished off the chassis. By far the hardest part was getting the tires to sit right in the bead locks.
Then sprayed the body with Tamiya fine line primer. This primer is super thin so it doesn't gum up any of the details
Finished off the chassis. By far the hardest part was getting the tires to sit right in the bead locks.
- shodog
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Re: Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
Shot the first can of paint on the body. I'm loving the color but not loving the paint. The tip would clog and spit drops on the body. So I had to start the paint off the body then spray over the body. This wasted a lot of paint into the air. Tonight I'll wet sand the color coat to flatten the paint then respray some finish coats with another can I bought. Once that is cured I'll move onto the clear coats.
- Coelacanth
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Re: Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
Are you using the Pactra rattle-cans? Funny you should mention that...those issues were precisely my experiences painting CYANide!shodog wrote:I'm loving the color but not loving the paint. The tip would clog and spit drops on the body.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17726&start=76
As I mention in that thread, I ended up taking a white plastic tip off another Pactra can that sprayed well, and swapped it for the CheZoom Teal's tip, and that helped it to spray more evenly.
Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
- SFC K
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Re: Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
I had the same issue when I painted my Clod body with Pactra cans. I ended up wet sanding it so it was smooth. It really sucks because those rattle cans are not cheap these days.
From the looks of your paint I think it looks good.
From the looks of your paint I think it looks good.
Jeff
- Coelacanth
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Re: Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
I should mention that the only Pactra I had these issues with were the CheZoom Teal and the window tint. Most of the other Pactra rattle-cans I've used sprayed nice and consistently when warmed up a bit in hot water before spraying. The window tint is absolute garbage. Avoid it at all cost.
Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
- shodog
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Re: Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
The nozzles are junk. Really I've never had much luck with Pactra model paint. That is why I did a test on the bowl pictured above and it turned out well so I was encouraged to try it until what happened on the first coat.
Today I sanded the paint down with 1500 grit paper. Before spraying I warmed a new can of Chezoom in my jacuzzi and shook the hell out of it. the final color coats came out really nice I didn't find any blemishes when I was done.
I let the paint cure for a day then I'll start laying down the clear coats.
I took a couple of outdoor shots of the chassis. Having built 3 RC4WD chassis (TF1,TF1J,TF2) I have to say this is the best one yet. It's really well engineered.
Today I sanded the paint down with 1500 grit paper. Before spraying I warmed a new can of Chezoom in my jacuzzi and shook the hell out of it. the final color coats came out really nice I didn't find any blemishes when I was done.
I let the paint cure for a day then I'll start laying down the clear coats.
I took a couple of outdoor shots of the chassis. Having built 3 RC4WD chassis (TF1,TF1J,TF2) I have to say this is the best one yet. It's really well engineered.
- shodog
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Re: Shodog's RC4WD Gelande
I really like their polycarbonate paints. I've never had a problem with them, it's their hobby model paints that suck. Last time I used them was for my MGD lunchbox and I ended up with a bunch of orange peel. I have used the window tint and found it came out splotchy. Best bet for those is to use real window tint which is easy to get scraps from at a window tint installerCoelacanth wrote:I should mention that the only Pactra I had these issues with were the CheZoom Teal and the window tint. Most of the other Pactra rattle-cans I've used sprayed nice and consistently when warmed up a bit in hot water before spraying. The window tint is absolute garbage. Avoid it at all cost.
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