Minter wrote:Please show some pics of the bottom and explain the layout of any holes you drilled. Thanks!
I only had to drill 4 holes for the transmission I used another chassis the line up the holes.
The holes for the bulkhead are slightly off but because the bulkhead has some give it still works.
Thanks! Not as complicated as I thought. I was wondering if you had moved the suspension mounts back too in order to extend the wheelbase. Where did you source your transmission? I am still learning about all of the different types of Stealths and their compatibility.
Minter wrote:Thanks! Not as complicated as I thought. I was wondering if you had moved the suspension mounts back too in order to extend the wheelbase. Where did you source your transmission? I am still learning about all of the different types of Stealths and their compatibility.
Cheers
I've had the tranny since the 90's it came out of a gold tub rc10 it's a 2.25 tranny.
I recently got back into RC again, after almost 20 years of being away... but all my gear was long gone: liquidated in a garage sale when I went away to school. My first buy was a used Stampede VXL (since used to own a Traxxas Sledgehammer, and it...
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Looks a lot like mine! I have the same rims and tires, love it. Since you're local we should meet up sometime and race :D
Edit: you may want to consider upgrading it with a stealth tranny as the 6 gear will eventually fail because the idler gears...
I've had a RC10 since '87 (bought it used). I'm pretty sure my first was a 'Edinger' car. I am planning on reassembling that collection of parts n the future.
For now, this is some of the parts that...
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Painted the neon rims -- I like it. Runs great-- had to put the wheelie bar back on for running a 3 cell. My buddies 3s Slash clocks itself at 53MPH, and this thing pulls on it, easily. :)
This is my mid motor conversion based on a hacked graphite chassis.
It started out about 5 years ago when I got a graphite chassis for cheap or even free from someone off ebay or here who did not really know that the graphite chassis does not come...
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Well, the main goal was to move servo and battery as far forward as possible.
Laying the servo down as in a B3 or b4 causes interference with the nose brace tubes. Keeping the servo where it is is too close the the bellcrank connection. That is why...
I figured the only way to get a coffin chassis RC10 Graphite is to have a replica chassis made. Since I have an extra later model RC10 Graphite in nice condition, it seems like a good option for the making a coffin chassis style buggy.
Disclaimer...
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I decided which one gets the skeleton chassis and 48p Thorp 6 gear setup.
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Could you guys tell me the differences between a regular RC10 Graphite and a RC10 Graphite Team car besides the obvious...teflon shocks and stealth tranny? thanks in advance!
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Thanks guys I found exactly what I needed thanks to you guys. I appreciate it.
As title says I have some questions on my build, pictures will follow.
What I have:
Graphite chassis (nose cut off, I got it like that)
RC10T nose plate
RPM wide arms nip all around (yes the wide arms intended for the rpm narrow chassis...
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The nose brace rods will connect to my signature standing low profile servo mounts. That will be the only way to package a standard size LiPo or 6-cell battery.
I originally developed that design to fit 7-cell NIMHs without the hump in my RC10....
I never had one of these versions when I was younger, I went right from the standard 6036 chassis with the AE logo to the B2--but this is what was around Upstate New York when we did get these cars in the last month or two before the b2 was...