LTO's Re-re Dirt Buggy

[LTO_Dave]

A good friend of mine who's into off-road racing convinced me to get a car together for a local track on October 11th. Since I've had my World's Re-re collecting dust since I bought the kit, I decided to give it a shot. I've never raced off-road before and have only carpet oval experience, so don't laugh.

I broke the seal the other day and I'm truly not all that impressed with the quality and packing. Both my shock oil and diff lube was leaking in their bags, and my chassis was obviously scratched before it was anodized. But I saved myself the headache of building the kit tranny, and instead went with the U.S. case, U.S. idler & MIP aluminum topshaft thanks to gomachv.

I also ordered some RPM front & rear arms, gear cover & rod ends, along with some Lunsford retro turnbuckles and J Concepts Bar Codes in green since that's what most people at the track were using. I also picked up a Reedy Wolfpack 5000 2s LiPo. I may swap out the threaded shocks for some classic hard ano'd Team shocks with white plastic. I'm hoping to paint the body in a white/gray/gunmetal/black-striped theme with possibly pink wheels. Electronics may not be competitive with today's stuff since I'm planning to run a Tekin G-10 or Ko Hara Twister with an Orion Revolution 14x2 brushed motor to keep it somewhat vintage themed. But I'm just out to have some fun.

[TRX-1-3]

Cool dude. I'll be lurking on this one.

Mark

[GoMachV]

You haven't got it done yet?!

[LTO_Dave]

You haven't got it done yet?!

I got a few parts screwed together and trimmed the ears off of the rear bulkhead, but that's about it.

The countersunk holes running along the milled areas at the sides of the tub are totally frigged up. It almost looks like the holes were countersunk then eaten away during anodizing. I screwed the antenna mount to the chassis but I can't promise it'll stay there. All the other holes are fine except these ones.

And I also got two antenna mounts in the same bag, which probably means I'm missing something important. And those hideous green 8/32 screws! WTF? Some of mine still had tabs where it looks like they were attached to a parts tree. And the plastic must be four different shades of beige/white/glow-in-the-dark! The front carriers are the same color as the ball cups and steering parts. The other NIP re-re parts I got months ago are all matching shades.

The quality of this kit has been so poor that I'm glad I decided to build and race it because it's honestly not worthy of a shelf and original vintage parts.

[GoMachV]

You don't like those awesome screws? They are pretty brittle too, might want to toss the bellcrank screws and put real ones in there. A few have sheared them. The USA stealth case is almost gray! The most disappointing part about the ball ends is that they don't in fact glow in the dark! Lastly, yeah the milling and anno are a bit weird, it looks like they may have hung it by the antenna hole and that messed it up more.

It's sad because you could feel the quality in the real rc10's. These are just "off"

[edwin pibal]

I got some ball cups for my build and was shocked when I saw them shinny green!!!

I think I'll use the old ones from the donar truck I have

Ed

[slotcarrod]

I got some ball cups for my build and was shocked when I saw them shinny green!!!

I think I'll use the old ones from the donar truck I have

Ed

When you put them on they look good, you can no longer see the green. Not sure why this is.

[LTO_Dave]

I got this thing almost done over the weekend. I just need to mask and paint the body, and dye the wheels & glue the tires.

For anyone interested, the MIP B4 aluminum topshaft WILL NOT fit the Re-re Stealth tranny because it has the spacer machined onto it already.

I had some fun with this build since the quality was terrible and I'm planning to race it anyway. I replaced the green screws with a set of NIP ones and used some leftover stainless screws I had from my Wraith build. I also used some pink anodized parts leftover from my B44 like washers, nuts & thumbscrews for the battery.

I used a Compaq 6565 tranny case and 6570 idler, along with the original topshaft. I ran into the problem of the slipper plate rubbing the motor plate, so I found an axle spacer/crush tube in my parts box that was an exact fit. I also used original NIP thrust balls, washers & bolt, and diff rings...I left the Chinese junk in the box.

- RPM front arms, front bulkhead, rear arms, bumper, rod ends, gear cover, spring cups & delrin shock pivots
- Fibre-Lyte front tower, rear tower, tranny brace & battery brace w/B44 thumbscrews
- Lunsford retro titanium turnbuckles
- BRP adjustable wing with Trinity pro wing buttons
- Bearings used in the steering
- Tekin G-10 esc
- Spektrum 2.4 receiver
- Airtronics 94157 servo
- Orion 14 x 2 Revolution motor w/ Trinity heatsink spacer
- Holeshot super Cooler 2000 heatsink
- Reedy WolfPack 5000 2s LiPo
- LowClassCC chassis protector
- JConcepts green Barcodes on wheels dyed w/ pink Lightspeed Dylon


Some crappy pics:

[GoMachV]

She looks great! The Compaq case actually blends in pretty well

[mikea96]

Looks good but what is the compaq case?

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI!... Looks good! What's with all the score marks on the motor case?

[GoMachV]

Looks good but what is the compaq case?

The color of the newest batch of USA 6565 cases is Compaq gray- like the 90's computers

[LTO_Dave]

HI!... Looks good! What's with all the score marks on the motor case?

Do you mean the endbell? I think they're designed for better cooling and are machined in a swirl pattern.

[LTO_Dave]

I finished painting the body with Pactra pearl white, black and white. And I added some decals and dyed the wheels with some Lightspeed Dylon pink dye, which is freakin' amazing! I just need to glue the tires and possibly swap out the Orion motor for a Reedy Ultra Mr. F's.

[mikea96]

That looks really cool!