v2 vs 12mm shocks

[sbcnyc]

so ive been running a set of V2 shocks on my rc10gt brushless conversion with much success, i want to resurrect my T2 now that i can get rear arm mounts a lot cheaper than original

so my question is i want to modernize the T2 to club race, already did a few things but im stuck on shocks, im over ride height clips and i just want threaded on my runners

if i get a set of v2 bodies, i can still use all my springs, shafts and pistons from my original shock horde and not worry about chassis fitment, but, i have a caster s10b pro, and the 12 mm shocks on that are butter, is there really a difference in performance on a stadium truck to switch my shock stuff over to 12mm?

and of course id love some input from anyone running either on their vintage rc10t runners and what the preference is

[RC10th]

The V2 shocks are good but really suffer from bad spring rub. They really start to come alive with the 12mm big bore springs. Both Ghea and Niki make big bore spring adaptors to use big bore springs on the V2 shocks.

http://www.shapeways.com/product/S39PR668K/bb-spring-adapters?li=shop-results&optionId=40560457

The Associated big bores are super plush but I found I was always chasing ride height with them, they also need to be rebuilt more often.

The big bores are also slightly lazier while the V2's are more reactive.

[sbcnyc]

+1 on the spring rub, no matter what i tried, like filing the spring ends, they scrape agains the bodies.. didnt think to use the fatter springs on the v2's, but i guess im stuck tossing my ae spring sets to change over to the new stuff

still a toss up though, i saw a build on rcten that was sick, rc10t built to kill sporting a set of big bores, and front hex hubs... looks are one thing, but is there really a difference to overall feel on our older platforms? or any real benifit to the bigger shocks for mid size club style tracks, i see them as a big help outdoors, im no setup wizard but i like to build my stuff smooth

why does the ride height need constant tweaking? and if you could describe "lazy" it would help clue me in.. thanks for the input !...

[Proc1973]

if I try the big bore springs on the the v2 shocks, what do I need to look out for with setting up? If I go with roughly the same spring rate as the v2 springs, do I need to change the shock oil weight or piston? Any guidance appreciated.

[RC10th]

If using BB spring on V2 I would start with similar lb spring to what your using and go from there.

I haven't figured out why the ride height kept changing but my suspicion is spring sag changing due to temperature or settling. It was enough that without touching anything the truck went from making the tripple every time in the morning to struggling to make it in the afternoon (had to double single), the only reason was a couple mm ride height change. Reset ride height and it was back to making the tripple every time, it had a very short run up.

The o-ring tolerances were much looser in the big bores and new rebuild kits to reduce drag, this means they lose more oil and need rebuilding more often.

I asked a local AE sponsored driver about these issues and he confirmed. Many of them actually changed BB's out for V2's at last years nationals.

The big bores are bigger and slower to react, they are good for smoother high bite big jump tracks while the smaller shocks react quicker and transfer weight quicker, better for low - med grip tracks.

[bully]

Yeah I think the older kits that are quite heavy could benefit from the big bores but I would try the springs first,traxxas have spring mount things also but you can google big bore springs on small bore shocks to see the alternatives some are a lot cheaper than others though in price. The spring rub problem I solve with small strips of double sided tape at the top in between the spring an the clamp or threaded collar on the opposite side to the spring rub to use a nascar phrase give it some wedge.. I most times use clear chassis protector tape cut in 5mm strips about 30mm long then fold it over sticky side to sticky side an place at top of spring between the collar an spring an slide it down the body of shock a bit so the rest doesn't hang outside the edge of shock to far an reseat the spring properly .. With experimentation you can suss how many folds of the stuff you need depending on how bad the spring rub is, it's the only thing i have ever had success with stopping the spring rub, hard stuff like lexan or plastic just falls out but the tape gets squished in there an never comes out.. I use to cut lexan in tiny bits an glue that to the top spring collar but it gets messy. Set your ride height first an turn the spring so the rub is facing in to the center of chassis it makes it easier to slide the wedge in on the outside edge.. Long story sorry but it works . I still use the originals on my truck but that is because I just can't justify spending that much when it drives fine but that's cheapo me

[fredswain]

I run big bore springs on standard bore v2 shocks on my B44.1 and I see no reason to change them. I've got big bores on my Durango and they are smooth but I wouldn't say smoother than my B44.1 shocks. I run Losi standard bore pistons in my AE standard bores. They are closer in size to the AE shock body so there is less leakage around them and the piston selection is greater.

[sbcnyc]

bully! sweet tweak using "chassis" tape, i never had a spring problem with the good ol slide collar/clip adjustable shocks, never thought about "rub" till threaded shocks came into the mix.. no real rub or hanging up like the v2's with regular shocks.. the threading on the v2's bite into the rear springs most, i guess at the length the springs deflect and sit on the body of the shock... i really just like the ease and mindless adjustment threaded shocks offer, just count the turns and no clips to fly off / stripped collars that creep up from big jumps...

i found a ebay auction for sc10 big bores and i bit.... so im gonna give em a shot, fredswain, to me... smooth shocks are all in the oring/shaft package, and what lube sits in the bushings/orings, i just ment to comment on my caster that the 13mm shocks work well, and its heavy, so im thinking it could work on the stadium truck, i too have played with losi pistons in associated shocks and vice versa..... my xxxnt has ae pistons!... and losi springs fit ae shocks better!...being that the bigbores come with various spring cups, ill figure out a top retainer for the v2's and see how there really supposed to work... i mean, ae shocks were the must have on anything custom back when... ha

i guess im just stuck buying up 12mm springs and putting my shock horde up on the fleebay...

[bully]

Yeah the deflection is not really noticeable in the buggy fronts but truck fronts can rub a little but like you said the rears are a problem and the threaded portion does catch on the springs.. AE said that was part of the reason to switch to BB an the old springs had rates that were not always repeatable something to do with wire size and threads per inch or something.. Fine for club days an fun but the best an easiest way to stop the rub is the BB springs.. Doing the tape thing takes time an is a bit of a pain, but it's cheap.. I will prob have to look into the BB springs one day but as of this year I am on a forced break from spending on rc..

[sbcnyc]

thanks for the input all... ill let you know how it works out... torn to fit them to the T2 or my gt conversion... just revamped the gt, fit a square lipo to start really trying to understand setup with a mid motor car, really unthink what ive learned through the years... should be interesting taking out antisquat and playing with shock oil weight... havent even started thinking about kickup, caster...even wheelbase... im just so set on my old truck, as its soooo bomb proof

[mAdMan]

Great thread!

[JK Racing]

I run big bore springs on almost all my cars/trucks. Both original, V2 and 12mm shocks, I have an assortment . On my bigger/heavier cars (10T and SC10), I feel the big bore springs let the truck behave better. On my buggies (small/small, small/big & big/big), I prefer the big/big honestly. I cant really explain why, but that car just feels the best for the way I drive and the tracks I run on.

[BohemianBabyDev]

so ive been running a set of V2 shocks on my rc10gt brushless conversion with much success, i want to resurrect my T2 now that i can get rear arm mounts a lot cheaper than original

I am looking to upgrade my recently converted brushless GT.
But I am thrown off by what size v2 shocks I should actually use to fit correctly on front and rears and what shock shafts / pistons the whole deal.
Seems there are a lot of options to choose from.

Which sets / sizes are you using for front and rears?

[RC10th]

Just use the standard 1.02 for the front and 1.32 for the rear.

#3 or #2 pistons in the front and #2 or #1 in the rear depending on oil and feel

[JosephS]

so ive been running a set of V2 shocks on my rc10gt brushless conversion with much success, i want to resurrect my T2 now that i can get rear arm mounts a lot cheaper than original

I am looking to upgrade my recently converted brushless GT.
But I am thrown off by what size v2 shocks I should actually use to fit correctly on front and rears and what shock shafts / pistons the whole deal.
Seems there are a lot of options to choose from.

Which sets / sizes are you using for front and rears?

If cost is an issue I have seen people use the 1.39 threaded rear and 1.18 front with travel limiters. Both those sizes seem to be less expensive to source.