I am happy to say I took it out for a blast the other day and everything held up. I was spinning off the line so I didn't get a good hook to fully test the dog bones but so far so good. The slicks are still ballooning too much for my liking so I think I'll go with foam. It's really fast though. Hopefully next time out I'll try to measure speed. My other car with a similar setup went 41mph with a 9.6v NiMH and this has a 3S and is geared a bit taller - 78/30.
I also noticed at speed I'm definitely dealing with aerodynamics. The front end gets light at speed and I've decided it's the wing. It's definitely WAY better than a stock setup RC10 with regards to wheeling though. My other car wants to come up instantly with the same motor/battery/gearing combo. So overall I'm super stoked about this configuration. With the wing removed it's less light in the front but it's very unstable at speed. I'm thinking about a sheetmetal wing that's flat with higher than normal sides for stability. The ballooning tires aren't helping for stability either. Also toying with the idea of a front bumper something like the attached but not sure.
Certainly open to ideas on keeping the front end down - short of a wheelie bar that is. (I do have one though but want to avoid using it)
No videos of this car but a couple quick launches with my RC10 "pan" car. 8.5T motor, 3S geared short...90/25! Foam tires with mini mags. She hooks real nice - LOVE it!
[youtube]ejV9-aJWjbc[/youtube]
knucklebuster wrote:Turned out killer Mike
I was afraid the chassis may be more likely to bend. I have two suggestions to consider for the new chassis:
1/8" sheet fiberglass strip from the rear bulkhead to the battery box. I will post a pic of a similar set up.
Another suggestion that I plan to do one fine day is to use 1/4" tube (same tubing as wing tubes and nose brace tubes) with a similar shape as the body inserted into the rear bulkhead and through to the nose.
Yes, the bends will compromise rigidity on impact but I imagine it must be better than no support at all.
Thanks! I think now that I have an uncut chassis I'll be ok...but I'm always open to new ways to brace the chassis.
Bottom Feeder wrote:I think you still have your rear arm mounts on backwards...
Yeah I forgot I ended up going this way. When mocking up I measured wheelbase...but when final assembling I noticed wheelbase was shorter...so I switched back...I wanted as much wheelbase as I could get - and for speed runs it will be fine...when/if I decide to race in the dirt I can always switch it back
jwscab wrote:I don't think the stainless bones will hold up very long. the bone itself might be fine, but the stock bones are actually 3 peices, the bone, and two drive pins. the pins are hardened to stand up to the hardened out drives. next spin of the bones might be better to make the bone and leave holes on the ends for installing the hardened drive pins. then you will have guys asking you to make them custom lengths bones all the time, hahhahha
I am skeptical too but it was worth a shot - just for the cool factor of 3d printing metal! lol. Do you think the stock RC10 drive wheel pins would work? (or are they not hardeded? - I like this idea for future reference if these end up failing...where can I get hardened pins?)
Bumper idea to help keep the front end down...
Enjoy!
