rc10t project comming along, could use help

[zhiland]

i got the 8.5 bl havok navk esc motor in there and the thing runs like a champ, i have it geared with a 16t pinion and 71t spur and it runs as fast as i want it to go. one thing is no matter how hard i torqe down on the clutch nut (?) it still makes a screeming sound when i take off. i think my only solution is to get a new friction pad from towers, becuase the pad looks smooth to me. also i have a GRIP of tires/wheels but noneof them fit my rc10 unless i take the tire off and put it onto my other rims. so is there a solution for that?

other then that the thing runs like a champ, the clutch isnt really isnt a problem because i still have a fast enough acceleration, i just want the ability to pull a wheelie if i want to.

p.s. A+ on the motor and ecs great combo

[blown5.0]

Have you checked your diff setting, it may be loose, you will need to tighten the screw in your right side drive cup until snug, then back off 1/16 to 1/8 turn.

[Bugle]

I had that problem and changed to a B3 T3 slipper now it's good.

I'm guessing all your truck wheels are for 3/16" axles?
If your RC10T has dogbones the easiest way is to get these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=7378&search=Go bearing crush tubes http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2983&P=7 and some 3/16"x3/8" bearings.

If you've got universals you might as well get a set of T2/T3 CVD's.

[zhiland]

al the tires look like this there all diffrent






and my tire hooks up like this
and it has dogbones, so i going to try to tighten it down snug thn back off 1/8 turn and ill be back in 20 min or so

[zhiland]

oh and by the way http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt13/zhiland/tirethatworks.jpg this is the tire that works (ingnore the mud)

[zhiland]

i just took it out and it seems to hook up better but still not how i want it, also i have a super steering ex-5 radio with a futaba reciever, and when its farther then 15feet away from me it chatters or like glitches which i hear could be radio interfrence with the motor, so other then that it started sprinkling on my drive back and i lost ALL traction with the tires i had on... so how would you care for an old rc that got a little wet (on the outside ) the elctronics are dry as a bone. wd-40 for the dog bones and what not?

[Group B]

Wheelies:

What kind of batteries are you using? Have you tried using a larger spur gear?

Ball diffs:

I second what blown5.0 said about the ball diff tension. Also make sure that the the outdrive that has the head of the adjusting screw for the ball diff is on the right-hand side of the car, otherwise the ball diff can loosen as you're driving. Another thing is that brushless motors have no magnetic resistance when not in use, compared with brushed motors, so when you turn one of the rear wheels to feel the ball diff smoothness/tension, the other wheel likely will not turn, because the pinion is turning!

Clutch noise/slippage:

I second what Bugle said about the B3/T3 slipper setup. I recently installed it on my 10T and it made a huge improvement. I really don't think the original ATC slipper is up to the abuse from modern 10-13turn brushed motors, let alone the abuse brushless motors dish out.

Glitching:

I highly recommend that you ditch the AM radio and pick-up a modern DSM (digital spread-spectrum 2.4ghz) radio, if you don't mind paying between $150-180 for a transmitter and receiver only. When I revived my old Futaba 2PBKA Magnum Junior radio recently, even though I was using all the diodes, capacitors, and glitch busters on the market, it glitched sooo badly that I had to just chuck it. I went with the Futaba 3PM 2.4ghz radio and couldn't be more pleased. I can now drive my 10T to the limit of my sight, completely glitch-free. If you're looking to improve radio performance without spending that much, it couldn't hurt to pick-up a modern FM radio system. Anything is better than the headache that AM systems really are.

Cleanup:

I keep several cans of reedy motor spray, nitrotec chassis spray, and canned air duster for cleaning-up my 10T after running. I use the motor and chassis spray to remove dirt, grime, and mud, and to displace water from all the suspension arm and linkage joints, the steering linkages and joints, the hinge pin areas, the shocks, the spindles and hubs, the crevices of the chassis and bulkhead/arm mounts, and the motor and driveline components. I use the canned air duster to blast away dirt, dust, and water from the entire vehicle, especially the bearings, and the electronics. I don't like WD40 and wouldn't recommend lubricating dogbones or universals.

Rear wheel fitment:

Again I second what Bugle says, and highly recommend picking-up a set of T2/T3 cvds, and the aforementioned bearings and crush tubes. It really expands your choices when you're looking for new wheels, or buying used tires that are already mounted on wheels. Plus it gives you a chance to upgrade to cvds, which are quiet and smooth compared with dogbones and universals.

[zhiland]

so looking at pictures on the net the CVD Bone for RC10T/GT/T2/T3 looks like what i already have

[zhiland]

and super thanks for al the help!!!!

[Group B]

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Even though its not completely visible in the picture, I could swear that it looks like you have a 1/4" tapered dogbone stub axle, as opposed to a 3/16" dogbone stub axle.

This is a 3/16" dogbone stub axle:



And a pair of 3/16" cvd stub axles:



And a pair of cvd bones:

[zhiland]

oh ok i see how that works now, yeah, i have a "stub axle" with a diffrent looking end though, under the threads. I think im going to use these wheels as long as possible and just swap out all the tires i have one at a time untill im out of any other options. The tires i have now unskrew to like 3 diffrent parts, the front back and middle cylinder. and swapping tires desnt seem that hard, so if i do switch will those 'axles' be able to hold the tires that i have pictured? i have a conversion kit from my other truck (blackfoot f150) which is in ruins at this point, and nothing seems to fit on the rc10.
And yeah i would love a 2.4 radio, iv seem 'em on rc planes but i dont have that money right now.

[zhiland]

i got a b3/t3 associated clutch pad, and its not the same one that is on there now, so i guess u ment the whole clutch, like the disk to?

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt13/zhiland/slipperpad001.jpg
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt13/zhiland/slipperpad002.jpg

[Group B]

Yeah you'll need more than the new, larger disc:

The new-style replacement for the retained-style thrust bearing on the top shaft: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2885&P=OW
The new outer clutch hub: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3446&P=OW
The new inner clutch hub: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3445&P=M
The new bushing that goes in the new outer hub: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2856&P=M
It never hurts to have a new topshaft spring and locknut too: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2879&P=M

[badhoopty]

you can also use the b4/t4 slipper assembly as long as you swap the topshaft with a b4/t4.

[zhiland]

I used some washers and tightened it down so it doesn't slip so much, thanks for the advise though. i did get a b3/t3 slipper pad and it was to big as seen in those pictures, but it turns out it didn't fit. as far as the motor/esc setup (novak havok 8.5) im loving it. It turned my car into exactly what i wanted.
i also figured out those tires! i was looking through the tackle box that came with it and found a weird looking adapter that fits into the rear tires setup and now I'm able to run all the tires i have ( the fronts just needed bearings) so i'm happy about that.

in short since the last post i ran into a bigger car and broke an a-arm and replaced both of them with those 7$ "indestructible" pair of 'em, then hit a curb and broke the part of the shock that attaches to the a-arm (the ring) and i don't know if i will ever find a replacement for that, so i might just buy new ones.

This forum has been a TON of help, the only problem i see in the future is breaking something i cant replace because the parts aren't made any more.

oh and one last question!!! i promise!

when my uncle had the car it ran without interference for at least 3 blocks, which is farther then i want it to go, but i cant seem to get it to go more then one without freaking out and driving away! so i took the antenna off my other very broken RC car and soldered it onto this receiver because it was longer ( im pretty sure i did it right because it works) but i still cant get it out past about a block, and im not in the position to get any new Equip. so any recommendations?