Can someone explain the difference between rear hubs?

[RC104ever]

I was looking at rear hubs for another car and wondered what the difference is between the 0, 0.5, 1 degree hubs. Is it the amount of toe in or toe out? I'm guessing its not camber since you can adjust that yourself with the turnbuckles.

What would you need the different settings for anyways? Wouldn't it be ideal to just have a neutral setup for most situations?

Just need to make sure I understand this before I go ordering parts.

[jwscab]

yes, it's the amount of toe designed in the hing pin to axle relationship, ie, the hole is drilled at an angle.

toe in for rear tires helps 'on power' traction and generally improves handling. Can help you fine tune oversteer/understeer.

[GoMachV]

Typically it is 0, 1.5, and 3 iirc. Same are available on then inner mounts. With the combo you can adjust up to 6° which you would never want to do....but could! I've seen it done by accident before.

[RC104ever]

So what's a good 'balanced' setup that would be good for most situations? Or does it depend on shocks, tires and the rest of the setup?

[GoMachV]

Sorry. I'm in the same boat. I always ran 3° total but never understood when it was better to put it all at the hub, all at the Mount, or to split it.

[Y'ernat Al]

Sorry. I'm in the same boat. I always ran 3° total but never understood when it was better to put it all at the hub, all at the Mount, or to split it.

I asked J Dub a while back....

Sorry for the late reply, as I have'nt been in in a while. As for the 3* inner toe. This was a very common combination to run bitd. I never really saw anyone ever run anything but. However the reason is really multi-fold, but mostly because of the swept forward drive shaft angle the 3* rear inner blocks would provide. This gives the car a "dynamic" antisquat. Basically the harder you apply throttle, the more the suspension resists squating. And in many situations this made the car more consistent, as it kept the chassis flatter. There was also a little benefit from the motor hanging out the back a bit. The negative however was that the car handled rough terrain worse than a car with less inner block toe. So, occasionally you might find on big rough outdoor tracks the cars being tried with 0 or 1.5 inners. That said, the RC10 that Kinwald won the worlds with had 3* inners (I believe), and won it on the largest ruttiest track of all time . -Go figure.

[GoMachV]

Very cool....thanks!

[RC104ever]

So on some newer more modern designs, does the same logic still hold true? Say on a B4?

[Charlie don't surf]

To an extent, the amount of availiable traction is the key- AE drivers started using a racers edge .5 rear hub set around 09' for a little more stability which then became standard issue on the B4.1. They are currently back to 0* on the buggies with the extended chassis for more corner speed, however the SB10's are running 1* hubs in addtion to the 3* inboard for stability (I tried both the 4* block and the 3/1 combo)

[slotcarrod]

Allot of this depends on the track condition and rear traction. A rule of thumb is 3 degrees at the suspension mount for a start. 1.5 at the mount and 1.5 at the hub is good as well, if your brand of car allows this option! The more rear traction the less toe you need to use, therefore you don't scrub speed as much. The one drawback with less toe is the car becomes twitchy and if you are trading paint, you will likely be the one needing a marshal!

Reg, what did you end up liking the most on your B4.1 FT?