Mounting a pre painted body

[Momo5]

Does anyone have any tips or tricks to mounting a prepainted body? I just rebuilt a Redcat Rampage MT, and I ordered a factory painted body. The body though doesnt have any markers where the posts are supposed to come though. Other than trying to mark the inside with a sharpee, any ideas?

[GoMachV]

I always used a dab of white out or paint on the body posts, gently drop the body into them, and it will leave a dot.

[justinspeed79]

I always used a dab of white out or paint on the body posts, gently drop the body into them, and it will leave a dot.

+1. A dab of grease will also work.

[Coelacanth]

What I recently did to mark the position of the antenna hole is to cut down a spare antenna tube to a length that will just touch the underside of the body. Of course, I did this with a clear, unpainted body and marked the body with an X-Acto knife. You could use the same tip gomachv said though, with a dab of liquid paper, threadlock, grease, or whatever.

[Y'ernat Al]

I use a stratgically placed bright light, usally a mag light flashlight. And I make the intitai hole small, so I can enlarge the hole into a sl different position in case it's one of those bodies that needs to by just right.

[slapshot1979]

^^^ +1. same as I do.

[CAT3K]

I use these : http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_product.php?productId=0000002798

[RC104ever]

I use these : http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_product.php?productId=0000002798

Those are awesome! I am so getting a set

[DerbyDan]

I use Blu-Tac - spread some across the rough area where the posts land, position the body & push it down to make an imprint, mark the centre of the imprint with a centrepunch & drill....

These methods only really work well if the bodyposts are nice & short & lift the body equally front & rear prior to marking.... the rear posts on my TC are quite a bit longer (relative) compared with the fronts (to allow the rear of the shell to 'float' when riding kerbs etc) which puts the shell at a nose down attitude so I have to make an allowance for this when marking the shell after the post position has been imprinted into the Blu-Tac.... if that makes sense?

[Coelacanth]

These methods only really work well if the bodyposts are nice & short & lift the body equally front & rear prior to marking.... the rear posts on my TC are quite a bit longer (relative) compared with the fronts (to allow the rear of the shell to 'float' when riding kerbs etc) which puts the shell at a nose down attitude so I have to make an allowance for this when marking the shell after the post position has been imprinted into the Blu-Tac.... if that makes sense?

That definitely makes sense. I bought a repro AYK Buffalo body for my friend's Buffalo, one of my ongoing projects. The Buffalo has a very long front body post and the body presses down onto it a good inch or so. (Why the body post is so long is beyond me.) Anyway, I marked the post where it first contacted the body but didn't account for the body being pressed 1 inch more down the post, which didn't account for some angle, with the result that I had to elongate the mounting hole into a bit of an oval as the body was pushing against the post the more you pressed down on it. Fortunately it didn't need a LOT of oval, and it won't be visible with an adhesive body post pad on the bottom and a protective rubber washer on the top, but still...that's a very good point, Dan.

[terry.sc]

I use these : http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_product.php?productId=0000002798

I use the same things, mine are Yeah Racing ones. Still needs some measuring inside the body to make sure it's centred before reaming the holes but it does show you exactly where the holes need to be.

. the rear posts on my TC are quite a bit longer (relative) compared with the fronts (to allow the rear of the shell to 'float' when riding kerbs etc) which puts the shell at a nose down attitude so I have to make an allowance for this when marking the shell after the post position has been imprinted into the Blu-Tac.... if that makes sense?

The trick is to have a spare set of body posts cut down so the body sits on top of them correctly before you make the holes in the body. These spare posts used just for body mounting means you also know the posts are straight and not been bent when racing.