I edited my previous post, I thought the B4 used the spacer to get the spacing right, I was wrong!
Have you worked it out?
Flat too long on the top shaft and a collapsed spring?
Definitely not a collapsed spring, I don't think..Waiting for AE to get back to me for replacement slipper hubs. I believe those the issue. One of them is not allowing me to insert it down the shaft all the way.
Sooo...AE is sending #7485. No word on the transmission/top shaft query though...I had to send link to my video to convince them. But good response nonetheless. We'll see what they say about my trans issue...
howaboutme wrote: ↑Tue Jan 17, 2017 9:23 am
Well...Since I am (sort of) at a bump in the build I decided to order some hop ups!
I ordered the RPM cups, Lunsford Punisher TI turnbuckles, their wrench and some weights to put in the nose area....
Those Punisher turnbuckles are really nice. I will have to order a set soon. I didn't go with RPM ball cups though. I have the AE low-friction cups. I need to install them when I have a chance.
I hope the new slipper hubs takes care of your transmission issue.
howaboutme wrote: ↑Tue Jan 17, 2017 9:23 am
Well...Since I am (sort of) at a bump in the build I decided to order some hop ups!
I ordered the RPM cups, Lunsford Punisher TI turnbuckles, their wrench and some weights to put in the nose area....
Those Punisher turnbuckles are really nice. I will have to order a set soon. I didn't go with RPM ball cups though. I have the AE low-friction cups. I need to install them when I have a chance.
I hope the new slipper hubs are the remedy of your transmission issue.
I never got confirmation that AE was sending me 9601, just that they were going to send me a new slipper hub. But they did!
Left 2 came from AE, very grateful and a very good impression for this first time customer. The right package was a separate order from tower including the turnbuckles and the rod ends..
Notice #6629? That's to replace (and to have on hand) the diff hub, which as you can see from the previous pictures and video is starting to strip...
Question for all..Should I try to fit this replacement #9601 or just live with what I have right now? I used the drill and it's loosened up significantly. Additionally, I'm not sure 9601 is the sole source of the problems either.
Yes. So I decided to hold off. I'll continue to break the transmission.
The new slipper hubs did the job. Everything works now! Boy, this build is taking forever! It was one of the 2 kit hubs that was deformed so now I have a backup. But AE did me good, I am happy they took care of me.
Now...moving forward, I had a heck of a time determining the difference between #7381 vs #7665. I originally put 7381 on correctly through the CVA axle but then when I got to needing to put 7665 to pin everything together, it didn't fit. That made me take one of the 2 axles apart to check. Some searches online made me believe I was doing it correctly. So when I got back to the 7665, I really needed to plyer those pins in. I suppose that's normal?
Took me 1 hr to do this one step because......I'm a dad! haha...My daughter kept asking me for help while doing her project next to me (snap circuits).
Have to say, the RPM cups look a bit out of scale for the steering turnbuckles. Because the RMP cups are different size and the AE instructions only show inside to inside dimensions for the turnbuckle length, I had to put the kit turnbuckle together to measure center to center to get the right overall length.
For the steering, I probably should have just kept it to kit cups?
I think for the center link you are OK, but for the ones next to them- the inner steering ball joints- you will want to use standard ball cups. If you dont, they will have clearance issues with the inner camber link ball ends. As far as dimensions go, you could download an old RC10 Champ manual (not the Worlds, because Associated messed up on the rere and changed the rear link positions) and use those dimensions. IIRC they are taken from the center point of the ball, so it is easier with the aftermarket cups
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
also, I dont think your steering bellcrank nut is down all the way on the left side. I bet the washer is off center and holding it up. They are a PITA to get centered
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
Ok, I preparation for my World's build up, these are the questions that I have come up with:
1. What color are the rear axle/bearing hubs? White or black? The manual shows the car with white, but a pic of the parts in black.
2. What color are the...
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Got the rear wheels today qc, Thank you sir! Just need hoopty's Krylon or some white bell cranks.
HI!... Just picked up this Team Associated RC10 World's car (re/re).
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Looks good but i would switch out the front axles to the 6220 rc10 axles with those wheels since they are a different offset than the kit front wheels.
Here is a RC10B2 project i picked up plus i picked up some new spares and have a few more items on there way to me. Sorry for the bad picture i will get a better one up soon.
Hi all, been slowly getting back into the hobby over the last several years. Used to be into RC boating back in 80's as a kid. Grew up on a lake and had a nitro Kyosho Jet Stream. My cousin had a hornet and his friends had a Frog. Another had a...
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Thanks, I agree simpler paint jobs are less distracting. I don't like overly elaborate paint jobs on racers. I like having something that tells me orientation very well. I just watched the '87 IFMAR championship, that was one loose track. Our track...
Just picked up a World's Car in the recent discounts. Decided to go with a FT blue screw kit for it. I did end up needing a new top shaft as the one that came with the kit was just not smooth. Here are a few pics of the build so far.
Just starting a thread for my 2nd Worlds ReRe build that will be for racing. Going to start with making the parts list. Some of which I've already started acquiring.
Edited 2017/05/31
SSC10 Chassis Kit & Motor Guard
Dyed all white parts Black...
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Rattle can job of my old school racing colors. kinda like the bright color contrast...
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Just building a box stock, per the manual World's ReRe. Hope to put it up on the shelf next to my original Worlds. Although the latter has seen significant track time back in the day, still has the dirt in the crevices. lol.
Anyway with the ReRe...
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This design still looks SOOOOOO good even after ca. 30yrs. that it's shocking 8) 8) 8)