My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

[DaveM]

Hi,

Stick at it, you will work it out!

I edited my previous post, I thought the B4 used the spacer to get the spacing right, I was wrong!

Have you worked it out?

Flat too long on the top shaft and a collapsed spring?

[howaboutme]

Hi,

Stick at it, you will work it out!

I edited my previous post, I thought the B4 used the spacer to get the spacing right, I was wrong!

Have you worked it out?

Flat too long on the top shaft and a collapsed spring?

Definitely not a collapsed spring, I don't think..Waiting for AE to get back to me for replacement slipper hubs. I believe those the issue. One of them is not allowing me to insert it down the shaft all the way.

[howaboutme]

Sooo...AE is sending #7485. No word on the transmission/top shaft query though...I had to send link to my video to convince them. But good response nonetheless. We'll see what they say about my trans issue...

[howaboutme]

Well...Since I am (sort of) at a bump in the build I decided to order some hop ups!

I ordered the RPM cups, Lunsford Punisher TI turnbuckles, their wrench and some weights to put in the nose area....

[joey_zrl]

Well...Since I am (sort of) at a bump in the build I decided to order some hop ups!

I ordered the RPM cups, Lunsford Punisher TI turnbuckles, their wrench and some weights to put in the nose area....

Those Punisher turnbuckles are really nice. I will have to order a set soon. I didn't go with RPM ball cups though. I have the AE low-friction cups. I need to install them when I have a chance.

I hope the new slipper hubs takes care of your transmission issue.

[joey_zrl]

Well...Since I am (sort of) at a bump in the build I decided to order some hop ups!

I ordered the RPM cups, Lunsford Punisher TI turnbuckles, their wrench and some weights to put in the nose area....

Those Punisher turnbuckles are really nice. I will have to order a set soon. I didn't go with RPM ball cups though. I have the AE low-friction cups. I need to install them when I have a chance.

I hope the new slipper hubs are the remedy of your transmission issue.

[howaboutme]

AE is great!

I never got confirmation that AE was sending me 9601, just that they were going to send me a new slipper hub. But they did!



Left 2 came from AE, very grateful and a very good impression for this first time customer. The right package was a separate order from tower including the turnbuckles and the rod ends..

Notice #6629? That's to replace (and to have on hand) the diff hub, which as you can see from the previous pictures and video is starting to strip...

Question for all..Should I try to fit this replacement #9601 or just live with what I have right now? I used the drill and it's loosened up significantly. Additionally, I'm not sure 9601 is the sole source of the problems either.

Thoughts and opinions?

Thanks!

[scr8p]

If the slipper plate does not hit the motor plate with the kit top shaft, swapping the new one in will give no improvement.

[howaboutme]

Yes. So I decided to hold off. I'll continue to break the transmission.

The new slipper hubs did the job. Everything works now! Boy, this build is taking forever! It was one of the 2 kit hubs that was deformed so now I have a backup. But AE did me good, I am happy they took care of me.

Now...moving forward, I had a heck of a time determining the difference between #7381 vs #7665. I originally put 7381 on correctly through the CVA axle but then when I got to needing to put 7665 to pin everything together, it didn't fit. That made me take one of the 2 axles apart to check. Some searches online made me believe I was doing it correctly. So when I got back to the 7665, I really needed to plyer those pins in. I suppose that's normal?

Now..on to those nice looking turnbuckles!

Thanks all for your help.

[joey_zrl]

AE is a great company. Glad it worked out.

The outer axle wheel pins are roll pins, and they have to be 'pressed' in. The pins for the cvd joints just slide in. You're getting there.

[scr8p]

The solid pin holds the cva together. The roll pin goes on the axle stub for the wheel.

Without looking at part numbers, I assume that's what you're talking about.

[howaboutme]

Yes, thanks guys!

7665 is the roll pin and I was not prepared for the amount of force I needed to push it in. But all is good.

[howaboutme]

Took me 1 hr to do this one step because......I'm a dad! haha...My daughter kept asking me for help while doing her project next to me (snap circuits).



Have to say, the RPM cups look a bit out of scale for the steering turnbuckles. Because the RMP cups are different size and the AE instructions only show inside to inside dimensions for the turnbuckle length, I had to put the kit turnbuckle together to measure center to center to get the right overall length.

For the steering, I probably should have just kept it to kit cups?

[GoMachV]

I think for the center link you are OK, but for the ones next to them- the inner steering ball joints- you will want to use standard ball cups. If you dont, they will have clearance issues with the inner camber link ball ends. As far as dimensions go, you could download an old RC10 Champ manual (not the Worlds, because Associated messed up on the rere and changed the rear link positions) and use those dimensions. IIRC they are taken from the center point of the ball, so it is easier with the aftermarket cups

[GoMachV]

also, I dont think your steering bellcrank nut is down all the way on the left side. I bet the washer is off center and holding it up. They are a PITA to get centered