BloodClod's RC10 Mid-Motor
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Re: BloodClod's RC10 Mid-Motor
I was running SB shocks on my yzRC10, the blue springs are the shortest in the spring kit so should get the low enough
If your using big bores I ran Orange front/Grey rear and 40/35 with 1.6/1.7 2 hole pistons
You'll need taller towers for the big bores to get the ride height low enough
If your using big bores I ran Orange front/Grey rear and 40/35 with 1.6/1.7 2 hole pistons
You'll need taller towers for the big bores to get the ride height low enough
If in doubt go flat out!
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Re: BloodClod's RC10 Mid-Motor
Ran a pack at the track today and I had a *HUGE* grin on my face the moment the car took the first corner. The change in handling was night vs day and the car was really really good. The main changes I had done were (1) use the new rear spacers to raise the rear roll center and reduce the anti-squat by 1 degree and (2) use the inner hole on the front shock tower for the camber link.
Whereas previously the car was a bit more unpredictable because it would either steer too much or the rear would not square up after a turn, the car is now really easy to place on the track and switched directions without that excessive roll it had exhibited so I could get on the throttle earlier through chicanes and corners. Forward traction was also improved so accelerating out of a corner was very similar to other modern 3-gear mid motor cars I've driven.
If there was something I really wanted to improve upon was to run a harder spring in front. The car would bite a bit hard on braking on some corners and harder springs would be the hot ticket I believe!
It's awesome when bench ideas translate to the track.
Hope you like the vid!
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Re: BloodClod's RC10 Mid-Motor

Figured out a way to get my harder front blue springs to fit!
Once again, thanks to the instant gratification brought to you by 3D printing - lol!
The front lower spring retainers on my RC10 were quite tall. I can't recall if these were stock but it wasn't hard to draw up some new ones in CAD and have them printed out. The lower profile should allow me to mount my blue springs with no issue!
In my spring kit the blue and brown springs are longer than the others...Headling wrote: ↑Wed Aug 16, 2017 5:48 am I was running SB shocks on my yzRC10, the blue springs are the shortest in the spring kit so should get the low enough
If your using big bores I ran Orange front/Grey rear and 40/35 with 1.6/1.7 2 hole pistons
You'll need taller towers for the big bores to get the ride height low enough

Thanks for the suspension setup info - it really cuts down time to have a ballpark to start off with. I hate swapping oils...
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Re: BloodClod's RC10 Mid-Motor
Your welcome but remember my mid car was on high grip astro indoors, if you were outdoors/carpet I would go lighter on the oils 35/30wt but stick with Blue/Silver springs, the AE spring cups in the pic are the off set ones from the b44, the normal B4 ones will do the same job as the printed one
If in doubt go flat out!
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Re: BloodClod's RC10 Mid-Motor
Understood. 35/30 on the #1 pistons seemed too light for me so I'm currently on TLR40/35 which seems to be in the ballpark. I might go a tad higher on the rear just to give it a bit more damping landing the big jumps. The blue springs now fit so I'm ready to hit the track again for track test #3!Headling wrote: ↑Wed Aug 16, 2017 1:12 pm Your welcome but remember my mid car was on high grip astro indoors, if you were outdoors/carpet I would go lighter on the oils 35/30wt but stick with Blue/Silver springs, the AE spring cups in the pic are the off set ones from the b44, the normal B4 ones will do the same job as the printed one

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Re: BloodClod's RC10 Mid-Motor
Have been busy lately but at the the last run the wire for the wing mount broke after a flip. Interestingly the car still handled pretty good without the wing but of course it was a little hard to adjust the in-air attitude of the car on the jumps. 
Anyways, I had a little time today and had an idea I wanted to try out... and here it is...
The parts...

Step 1...

Step 2... it fits neatly!

Step 4... Then 2 more screws to put it all together.

Then mount everything back to the car and viola - wing mount!

Of course cutting a new shock tower to add the wing mounts would have achieved a similar end but this was easier to do then setting up the CNC... and it was a different idea so I'd like to see if it works! lol!

Anyways, I had a little time today and had an idea I wanted to try out... and here it is...
The parts...

Step 1...

Step 2... it fits neatly!

Step 4... Then 2 more screws to put it all together.

Then mount everything back to the car and viola - wing mount!

Of course cutting a new shock tower to add the wing mounts would have achieved a similar end but this was easier to do then setting up the CNC... and it was a different idea so I'd like to see if it works! lol!
- slotcarrod
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Re: BloodClod's RC10 Mid-Motor
That thing looks great! Nice driving as well! Hope the 3D parts last for you.
Rod Littau
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
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Re: BloodClod's RC10 Mid-Motor
Thanks, I'm a 3D printing newbie so I'm learning as I go along... the way the part is designed and printed makes a difference to the way it handles stress. Version 1 of the waterfall was a different design and has evolved since... and the parts have been holding up so far and the track we run does put it through a good test. lol!slotcarrod wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 11:45 am That thing looks great! Nice driving as well! Hope the 3D parts last for you.
But this new wing mount will be next to be stress tested!

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