Edinger? Time for some love

[mtbkym01]

Chassis/parts has been cleaned and some hardware been through the ultrasonic cleaner and protected with WD40 until I give them a further restore

[jwscab]

Well the shock tower is unfortunate. Probably the best you can do to repair that is to get two flat plates and some clamps. Scrub the part really really good and wash with isopropyl alcohol. Apply thin crazy glue inside the joint and then clamp tightly together between the plates. HOWEVER, before placing between the plates, place it between some polyethylene sheets such as a ziplock bag cut open. Nothing sticks to polyethylene, so it will harden and come apart easily. Obviously, not for running, just for the shelf.

Otherwise you would try to find an original, really hard, or a later one, easy but not correct, or possibly look for early aftermarket parts, something like a parma woven carbon fiber tower.

[mtbkym01]

Well the shock tower is unfortunate. Probably the best you can do to repair that is to get two flat plates and some clamps. Scrub the part really really good and wash with isopropyl alcohol. Apply thin crazy glue inside the joint and then clamp tightly together between the plates. HOWEVER, before placing between the plates, place it between some polyethylene sheets such as a ziplock bag cut open. Nothing sticks to polyethylene, so it will harden and come apart easily. Obviously, not for running, just for the shelf.

Otherwise you would try to find an original, really hard, or a later one, easy but not correct, or possibly look for early aftermarket parts, something like a parma woven carbon fiber tower.

This is definitely not going to be run. A repair like you describe is what I’m planning

[mtbkym01]

I am thinking a new screw set for the rebuild also, like the TeamKNK one? Thoughts?

[ChisaiKuso]

I am thinking a new screw set for the rebuild also, like the TeamKNK one? Thoughts?

I have four words for you: KEEP THIS CAR ORIGINAL

[jwscab]

Yeah, clean up all the steel hardware and use a phosphoric acid treatment and then wd40 or other oil then wipe down. Show some pics of the mangled screws. Guys probably won't have pristine screws for sale, but we might have some used ones in better shape than what you have. Don't do anything with the aluminum/green screws except soap and water.

[mtbkym01]

Far out, even screws?? OK fair enough

What product is phosphoric acid in? **Edit - Found it, like a rust coonverter, thankfully available locally

[ROH73]

I just had another look at the car and hidden in plain sight are a few more ball cup issues, primarily a couple broken ones, and more missing on the rear
Now I’m not sure whether to obtain more dubro’s or look at other alternatives

What about a 3D printed part? I made a quick model and test print (with "white" ABS) of the early Edinger ball cup. I think the results are pretty good for a first pass. It would only be suitable for a shelf car, though. Aesthetics, and possibly durability, would be better with a pro printing service like Shapeways

[bluewormx]

What about a 3D printed part? I made a quick model and test print (with "white" ABS) of the early Edinger ball cup. I think the results are pretty good for a first pass. It would only be suitable for a shelf car, though. Aesthetics, and possibly durability, would be better with a pro printing service like Shapeways


EdingerCups.jpg

WOW!!! they look amazing!!!

[ChisaiKuso]

What about a 3D printed part? I made a quick model and test print (with "white" ABS) of the early Edinger ball cup. I think the results are pretty good for a first pass. It would only be suitable for a shelf car, though. Aesthetics, and possibly durability, would be better with a pro printing service like Shapeways

To me this would be no different than using Chinese re-release parts. For simply displaying a nice car on a shelf … yeah, okay, maybe. For an actual detail-oriented restoration … uh, no.

You did a nice job printing those ball cups though.

[ROH73]

Thanks! It was a fun experiment on the "high detail" (0.12mm layer thickness) setting .

I agree; printed parts wouldn't be accurate for a true restoration, but sometimes reproductions are the best you can do the moment.

[mtbkym01]

Those ball cups look great without doubt, but I think the “period correct” hop up option (Dubro) will be the way I go this time

[ROH73]

Sounds like a good plan! Those early ball cups are so fragile. I have three early Edingers and all of them have Dubro replacements on the steering tie rods from BITD. They look "right" on an old RC10.

[mtbkym01]

So the 2 “steering post” screws are pretty stuffed

One is worse than the other, but I’d like to replace both to even them out, or if someone has one similar in condition to the “better” one, I’d be extremely grateful


This screw is obviously unusable (was used for the front body mount). I’m not even sure if this screw is correct for application? To me, it should be one of the aluminium green screws? Either way, this is totally stuffed

[jwscab]

I might have some nicely used examples. Shoot me a pm.