NomadRacer wrote: ↑Wed Oct 03, 2018 7:00 pm
Would, say, a 2mm hinge pin from a AE RC12R5.2 work?
That would have worked if it had the lengt of front inner hinge pin. If the length is correct I would have to fabricate new arms as they are allready drilled for std hinge pins. The "quick fix" is ball links.
I don't know if the Dubro plastic links are strong enough though and come to think of it.. hmmm.... these Dubro 3365 might not work as you want a upwards/inward travle of the rear wheels when compressing the suspension.
Looking at the Kanda/Ryuz the inner hinge of the arm is shorter then the outer.
I think it's back to the drawing board for my part.
Fabricated the front shock tower (Probably not the final version) Decided to move it rearward so it could bolt on the bulkhead.
On the pic it’s 1.32” rear shocks, but will have to source 1.02” as these are way too long!!
Asso_man! wrote: ↑Fri Oct 16, 2020 5:00 am
You could use a taller shock tower and play with inner spacers for the right suspension travel?
Yeah, that might be the way to go in the end if nothing else.
I just wanted to have as low fron end as possible. The body will sit behind the bulkhead and I think it will look even more weird with tall shocks and towers.
Shocks done. Just need to add oil
At the front I’m going for 1.02 shocks and 0.71 at the rear with Du-Bro ball ends to clear the trailing arms.
All shocks have RPM spring cups for clearance and no internal limiters. Oil will initially be 35wt.
Need your help on steering set up (only mockup at the moment).
I think shorty Lipo is the only option..
With trailing arms you get different movement depending where the inner ball joints is located on the chassis.
There will be a top deck with spacers on rear arm mounts.
Any input on this geometry is greatly appreciated.
If it were mine...assuming it would clear, I would swap bellcranks leaving the "input" side on the right. Servo can then mount alongside the pack like the original prototype RC10.
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
GoMachV wrote: ↑Thu Oct 29, 2020 12:53 pm
If it were mine...assuming it would clear, I would swap bellcranks leaving the "input" side on the right. Servo can then mount alongside the pack like the original prototype RC10.
That’s a good idea. Thank you.
With the B4 servo link it will clear. I will have to widen the openings in the pan for maximum steering throw, but that was something I knew from the beginning.
Just wanted to share the recent body set i completed for my RC10 B6.4d. I had the idea to paint a similar livery as a homage the OG RC10 box art. Below are some photos of my original RC10 and the B6.
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I am new here and I just am trying to learn how to start a conversation. This is a very nice rc10. I would sure like to have some nice paint work done like this I need some advice on the bet way to get some bodies painted up for some of my replicas...
I love this site! Specifically, the ingenuity when it comes to customizations, replica builds, and feats of engineering like Ten4 4wd project. Ever since I saw Jammin Jay's 4wd car in the mid '80s, I always wanted to build a four wheel drive RC10,...
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awesome concoction of Associated parts- well done! 8)
If they would have worked, I'd have sent you some.
