How to clean/refurbish steel ball studs?

[JosephS]

I am at the cleaning part of my build and I am down to working on the steel.
Right now I have all of the steel parts sitting in a small amount of automotive degreaser.
Is there some kind of short cut for cleaning and polishing ball studs? Right now my plan is to either

1) pretend they are fine after a de-grease and a wipe and hide them under ball cups
2) chuck each of them into a hand drill and run them against 1200 grit wet-sand paper

Is there a different way that other have tacked this? If so how did it work?

The action area of the studs was clean, but the hex portion of the steel seems to be naturally bluing.
Does anyone have an opinion if I should let nature take its' course, or dunk 'em in vinegar?

[juicedcoupe]

Replace them.

The ones from Custom Works are nice, and they retain the 4-40 thread.

[jwscab]

Soak them in simple green full strength for a few days. Then stick them in a drill and use green scotchbrite on them. Grab them by the threads polish, then grab them by the balls and polish.

If they are not rustproof enough for you, drop them into some sort of phosphoric acid, Krud kutter etc. Will put a grey to black finish on them.

[scr8p]

Wire wheel bit in a dremel.

[RC10th]

I stick them in a drill or dremel and spin them with a rag and polishing compound.

[JosephS]

Replace them.

The ones from Custom Works are nice, and they retain the 4-40 thread.

Are you referring to these https://www.customworksrc.com/product/short-hex-drive-ball-stud/
if they fit the stock ball cups I may keep a set in my kit for spares

For now I'm going to keep the stock studs. They have lasted all this time and seem to function fine.

[JosephS]

Soak them in simple green full strength for a few days. Then stick them in a drill and use green scotchbrite on them. Grab them by the threads polish, then grab them by the balls and polish.

If they are not rustproof enough for you, drop them into some sort of phosphoric acid, Krud kutter etc. Will put a grey to black finish on them.

Thanks for the tip. What ever the kit ball studs were made of rusting has not been an issue. It hasn't been an issue for the other steel fasteners or parts either on this one. All my newer cars stored in the same place rusted apart.

I didn't realize that krud cutter was phosphoric acid. I am planning on parkerizing parts for my next build. I wonder if this would work for that.

[JosephS]

Seems like putting them in a drill is the way to go. I 'll avoid the sand paper and go for my brass wire wheel and some polish.

Thanks all.

[juicedcoupe]

Replace them.

The ones from Custom Works are nice, and they retain the 4-40 thread.

Are you referring to these https://www.customworksrc.com/product/short-hex-drive-ball-stud/
if they fit the stock ball cups I may keep a set in my kit for spares

For now I'm going to keep the stock studs. They have lasted all this time and seem to function fine.

Yes. They also have a longer thread version that can be used with backing nuts or spacers in some places.

[JosephS]

Replace them.

The ones from Custom Works are nice, and they retain the 4-40 thread.

Are you referring to these https://www.customworksrc.com/product/short-hex-drive-ball-stud/
if they fit the stock ball cups I may keep a set in my kit for spares

For now I'm going to keep the stock studs. They have lasted all this time and seem to function fine.

Yes. They also have a longer thread version that can be used with backing nuts or spacers in some places.

Now that is interesting. Using backing nuts and washers seems like it would take some stress off vintage nylon

[BattleTrak]

Wire wheel in a Dremel tool is my method too. Then wiped down with a little oil to ward off future rust.

[JosephS]

Seems like putting them in a drill is the way to go. I 'll avoid the sand paper and go for my brass wire wheel and some polish.

Thanks all.

I went with the drill and rand them ball and thread against 1200 grit sand paper, a brass brush and a magic eraser. I did the ball and the studs. It took less time than I thought it would.
I specifically did not oil them because I don't want to attract dirt. I haven't found a dry lubricant that seemed like it was going to be effective.

[greazy]

I drilled and tapped a nylon block to clamp in my vise. It holds 8 ball studs. I use my dremel with a wire brush. I can do all the studs in about 10 minutes. It used to take me a couple hours and sore fingers to do them before.