Dadio's 3D Printing Stuff

[silvertriple]

This is just PLA , it's not nearly strong enough to use but it's cheap and perfect for prototyping , I find you can measure all you like and it seems perfect on screen but once a part is in your hand and directly next to the original you can often see mistakes .
IMG_20220429_134804_307.jpg

I also use PLA for prototyping, as it is really easy to print, and it doesn't shrink: if printer is properly calibrated, it is dead easy to validate parts, and to sport the mistake. One thing I did wrong in the past was not assembling my test prints : it may not be much but half millimeter on some stuff may be a whole issue... But I guess you are doing it always as per your comments on my Nichimo thread

[Dadio]

Finished the front and rear transmission housings , a job made more confusing by my warped original chassis , it looks wrong even when it's right anyway now it's done and I have a chassis model as well I can complete the cage , once off the car and in pieces the cage is like a wet noodle , virtually impossible to measure correctly But now it's going to be way easier

[silvertriple]

Finished the front and rear transmission housings , a job made more confusing by my warped original chassis , it looks wrong even when it's right anyway now it's done and I have a chassis model as well I can complete the cage , once off the car and in pieces the cage is like a wet noodle , virtually impossible to measure correctly But now it's going to be way easier

Well. Sound like the Samurai cages : I got 3 samurai, one was missing one of the brace, and the two others are complete, and I have a brand new roll cage in plastic. I measured all of them : no consensus on the right measurements when the roll cage speaks . About 1.5 to 2cm deviations for some measurements... And that's also the case for other parts ... Don't worry too much, it will fit anyway

[Dadio]

Finished the front and rear transmission housings , a job made more confusing by my warped original chassis , it looks wrong even when it's right anyway now it's done and I have a chassis model as well I can complete the cage , once off the car and in pieces the cage is like a wet noodle , virtually impossible to measure correctly But now it's going to be way easier

Well. Sound like the Samurai cages : I got 3 samurai, one was missing one of the brace, and the two others are complete, and I have a brand new roll cage in plastic. I measured all of them : no consensus on the right measurements when the roll cage speaks . About 1.5 to 2cm deviations for some measurements... And that's also the case for other parts ... Don't worry too much, it will fit anyway

I'm glad it's not just me that had a hard time with the Samurai chassis !

[silvertriple]

I'm glad it's not just me that had a hard time with the Samurai chassis !

Although Japanese factories are known for long to have introduced very early Statistical Process Controls and other ways to achieve a better quality in production, either Marui did not used that, or there was still large deviations. And just to be precise, when I was having a doubt because of the range of measures, I asked @optimaforever how much he measured on his side, and he told me another value which even increased the deviation range . In short, we should rely on the Nylon flexibility to help, and we have to understand what distances are really key and need to be absolutely right, and which one may not be that important... Another learning curve by itself

[Dadio]

I'm glad it's not just me that had a hard time with the Samurai chassis !

Although Japanese factories are known for long to have introduced very early Statistical Process Controls and other ways to achieve a better quality in production, either Marui did not used that, or there was still large deviations. And just to be precise, when I was having a doubt because of the range of measures, I asked @ optimaforever how much he measured on his side, and he told me another value which even increased the deviation range . In short, we should rely on the Nylon flexibility to help, and we have to understand what distances are really key and need to be absolutely right, and which one may not be that important... Another learning curve by itself

When you look at the reverse side of the Samurai chassis and look at the machining of the mould it looks very rough and ready , all the sectioned out areas are like granny's patchwork quilt , they don't smoothly transition but have steps , I think even the machinists had a had time making the mould

[silvertriple]

When you look at the reverse side of the Samurai chassis and look at the machining of the mould it looks very rough and ready , all the sectioned out areas are like granny's patchwork quilt , they don't smoothly transition but have steps , I think even the machinists had a had time making the mould

And looking at the deviation range, it is even possible there was just more than one mould

[Dadio]

It's nice when things fit so well .

Also modelled this MXL pulley , came out well but it's only resin printer , looks good , engages the belt
perfectly but it's not strong enough to use , good proof part and maybe I'll get a tester printed from Shapeways

Just dropped most of these parts individually in my Shapeways shop , I'll add parts bundles soon like paired arms and trans casings etc but it all takes time .

[Dadio]

Bit more Zerda , cage sections , took longer than I'd like to admit as the originals are soft as noodles and hard to measure , they fit well now though , the long front to back section is to long to print on my printer so I had to do it in two sections , I modelled the rear section not show hear a while ago and I compared it with these parts in Fusion 360 and they don't fit together but in real life they do because they are so flexible

[Dadio]

Drew these SG Racing Coyote parts , bulkheads and the top suspension mount , just resin prints as proof parts , will be in my shop soon .

The eagle eyes might spot that the bulkheads are not full thickness , I dropped the prints into the bed to get a flat bottom .

[silvertriple]

Bit more Zerda , cage sections , took longer than I'd like to admit as the originals are soft as noodles and hard to measure , they fit well now though , the long front to back section is to long to print on my printer so I had to do it in two sections , I modelled the rear section not show hear a while ago and I compared it with these parts in Fusion 360 and they don't fit together but in real life they do because they are so flexible

Looking at the instructions of the Nichimo 443 WDS which uses the same bumper as the FWD Nichimo cars, i suspect the engineers were relying on the flexibility of the plastic so that it can mount on both cars. On the Spirit, they put spacers, but they did not bother to put them on the Midships/Exceed ... And the flexibility works... Not sure which one was possibly breaking the Bumper faster

[BattleTrak]

Drew these SG Racing Coyote parts , bulkheads and the top suspension mount , just resin prints as proof parts , will be in my shop soon .
IMG_20220525_202345_551.jpg
IMG_20220525_202332_810.jpg
The eagle eyes might spot that the bulkheads are not full thickness , I dropped the prints into the bed to get a flat bottom .

I hope you make those Coyote double wheel bearing adapters next! I’ll buy 2 sets..

[Dadio]

Drew these SG Racing Coyote parts , bulkheads and the top suspension mount , just resin prints as proof parts , will be in my shop soon .
IMG_20220525_202345_551.jpg
IMG_20220525_202332_810.jpg
The eagle eyes might spot that the bulkheads are not full thickness , I dropped the prints into the bed to get a flat bottom .

I hope you make those Coyote double wheel bearing adapters next! I’ll buy 2 sets..

What I've just done was draw up converted front and rear hubs to take double bearings , thought that might be a better way to go as it does away with the three little screws to retain the bearing or adapter , I can just do adapters if that's what you'd prefer , would be cheaper .

[BattleTrak]

I think I would prefer the adapters, just to keep the car as original as possible with the mods on the subtle/hidden side. Your redesigned hubs sound interesting too..

[Dadio]

I think I would prefer the adapters, just to keep the car as original as possible with the mods on the subtle/hidden side. Your redesigned hubs sound interesting too..

No problem , I'll draw them up and test print them , not sure I have the three mil wide bearings to test with but I'll have a did around .