Early Edinger rebuild

[LurkingCAT]

Just had to take the gearbox apart and check.

No, but seriously I thought this comment can't be true (turned out I should have listened the gut feeling), and wondered how I could answer in a polite way. After all you had put some work into showing me the "right" way.
Alternatively that it was some sort of test. Just didn't understand it was a test of my humor and not building capabilities

[LurkingCAT]

*Edited since the entire post didn't submit and caused confusion. Oops

What a shame - you should really have kept it

[LurkingCAT]

So, I haven't settled on electronics and thinking about two alternative routes.

A true to manual large steering servo like Futaba S128, and mechanical speed controller with a small servo like S132H + a matching rx.

The alternative is a Novak setup, and I've always been fascinated with a pure orange layout in a gold pan. I never had this myself, in fact I've never had a NES-1A in a buggy. Thinking about a cluster of NES-1A, Novak 4 and NER-2S - they should all be sort of period correct.

Don't know what you think, but the Edinger motor in the picture below that came with the car doesn't really bring justice to the finish of the car. Have a new Edinger 05 that I feel would be a better match. Maybe a strange match if I go for the Novak setup, but it is a good way to get use of the motor.

[Frankentruck]

That 05 motor would be a great choice. It might be a little older than this RC10 but would have been around at the time. I'm not really a fan of mechanical speed controls for actual use (resistors get so hot) and the Novak setup would have been a high end build back then. I'd do the all orange electronics if you can.

[juicedcoupe]

Just FYI, the wiring layout of a 410-M5 fits the RC10 chassis better than a T4. The T4 fits, just not as cleanly.

[LurkingCAT]

Thank you both for the input. I'll go for the Novak. Thing is I want the components to be fairly period correct. The only early generation Novak esc I have are the NESC 4 and NESC 1X. The wires are too short so have to resolder.
I'll be using the 4 and as you see in the picture the wiring is identical to the successor T4. However, the 4 is slightly smaller than the T4 and has only got three case screws.

Another little comment worth mentioning is the early version of the NES-1A. The early servos had a silver label (thinking only introdution year 1982) bringing on the "Midget" from its predecessor - the Bantam midget and THE 1/12 servo from the late 70's. Shorly after the silver label came the more common black label Novak Electronics NES-1A. Again, for this build I will use the later black label that is closer to being period correct.

Rounding off the e-department with the NER-2S.

As I intend to resurrect my own late Edinger for some light recreational driving https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=48230 this car will get an easy life on the shelf - so electronics will stay cool, no beaten servo gears and no worries about the 75 mhz

[jcwrks]

Do you have a G to J adapter for the NES-1A to fit into the Rx.

[LurkingCAT]

Now I read your question several times, and after careful consideration found it safe to answer
But really I've had some good laughs at myself for seriously jumping on to your comment - you should not have deleted it.

No, I don't have any adapter. I just picket out the components yesterday when I decided on the Novak set up.
Was thinking of disconnecting the plug and mount a J, have to see if I have one in my drawers.
Also have to find a horn that is ok.

[LurkingCAT]

Learned something new today, at least I learned again something I've probably forgotten.

The Novak line of servos, starting on the Bantam Midget line, has a square outdrive - that I know very well, and I have several horns and savers for the Bantam. Then came the NES-1A with the splined outdrive replacing the Bantam – also known. Then came the larger NES-2H, and I knew I had some nice servo horns for that one.

I was thinking the 2H would have the splined outdrive and assuming (and hoping) it was the same as the 1A, being a successor.

Wrong: the NES-2H has a slightly bigger square (4,7 mm) than the old Bantam (4,4 mm). Meaning I have to dig deeper into old parts, OR give in and buy a KP saver. I see there are a few available on ebay.