Question regarding parts integrity
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Question regarding parts integrity
So I am trying to rebuild an old early model Competition Edition and as I am going through some of the old nylon parts I am finding what looks like little tears where pins and screws have been. Was wondering if this is a common thing with these parts being old or if they were just thinly molded. I don’t want to pay extra for original parts and might as well save money on some of the cheaper reproduction parts that are being made if this happens to new parts fairly quickly.
- Frankentruck
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Re: Question regarding parts integrity
That's normal and ok. The nylon in the rear arm mount is very thin where the hinge pin hole and the dogbone clearance cove meet. Some people trim that to fully expose the pin and make it look neater, some leave it just like that.
However for part integrity you should rehydrate your nylon parts if its going to be a runner. Dried out parts fail easier. Rehydrated parts typically regain some flexibility.
However for part integrity you should rehydrate your nylon parts if its going to be a runner. Dried out parts fail easier. Rehydrated parts typically regain some flexibility.
Frankensteined RC10T3 / Franky Jr RC10GT-e (x2) / A+ stamp / Toy Story RC / Graphite replica / B1.5 BFG 5LTi / Clonewald / Hyper Hornet
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
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Re: Question regarding parts integrity
Frankentruck wrote: ↑Thu Jan 11, 2024 10:22 am That's normal and ok. The nylon in the rear arm mount is very thin where the hinge pin hole and the dogbone clearance cove meet. Some people trim that to fully expose the pin and make it look neater, some leave it just like that.
However for part integrity you should rehydrate your nylon parts if its going to be a runner. Dried out parts fail easier. Rehydrated parts typically regain some flexibility.
Did the aftermarket stuff like Andys do that as well?
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Re: Question regarding parts integrity
The aftermarket parts were made thicker and typically didn't have this happen. Ideally this should never happen. The pins are meant to be rigidly fixed to the mount. The wear point is supposed to be the arms. So the arms should ride free on the pin and be fixed in the mount.
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Re: Question regarding parts integrity
Yeah this will never do for me and is going to change the direction of my build! Not going to fork out $30+ for a set of original mounts on Ebay. I have already spent more than I wanted to replacing parts.JosephS wrote: ↑Thu Jan 11, 2024 11:00 amThe aftermarket parts were made thicker and typically didn't have this happen. Ideally this should never happen. The pins are meant to be rigidly fixed to the mount. The wear point is supposed to be the arms. So the arms should ride free on the pin and be fixed in the mount.
- GoMachV
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Re: Question regarding parts integrity
FanRC parts are great stand ins for original parts, and half the price on those rear arm mounts. Just depends on what your build will be. For a shelf car id go original but for a runner, brand new parts for less money is the way to go.
https://teamknkhardware.com/product-category/fan-rc/
in stock at Team KNK
https://teamknkhardware.com/product-category/fan-rc/
in stock at Team KNK
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Re: Question regarding parts integrity
Thats what I am thinking now. It's not going to be a runner necessarily but not a shelf queen either. Just occasional trip in timeGoMachV wrote: ↑Thu Jan 11, 2024 11:14 am FanRC parts are great stand ins for original parts, and half the price on those rear arm mounts. Just depends on what your build will be. For a shelf car id go original but for a runner, brand new parts for less money is the way to go.
https://teamknkhardware.com/product-category/fan-rc/
in stock at Team KNK

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