vintage AE wrote:I feel as though I'm going to apply too much heat and damage the esc somehow, is that possible?
Like Reggie says it can happen. If your iron is working right that heat is going somewhere besides right to the solder so its kinda iffy. You touch the board more than the wire and it gets transfered thru the board to the next item in line and poof. I'm not a master solderer and tried doing a repair on one of my old esc and it happened just that way...but then it was broke when I got it and the ebay seller stated installed but never ran (but thats for a different part of the forum )
Good luck.
Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
The part about the heat being transfered to the wrong place is what I'm worried about. I haven't even done anything with this one, it is just out of the box, so I kinda don't want to play around too much. For me, when ever I fool around without success I always end up with something unusable
My wife suggested painting the wires if I wanted them to match the colour scheme
the problem is that the solder is probably lead-free which takes more heat, and it pretty much garbage. flowing in some lead solder alloys it and lowers the liquid transition temp, as well as adds flux that makes everything nice and flowy.
if you think the overall heat is the problem, definitely clip the wires down to less than 1/4" then try. Flow some fresh solder on the iron, and stick it on the pcb, then it should heat in 5 seconds or so. more than that can cause damage.
if you can stick the board on the edge of a bench and weigh it down, you can gently pull the wires down out of the board while heating from the top.
vintage AE wrote:My wife suggested painting the wires if I wanted them to match the colour scheme
next time she needs a different color of the same shoe/clothing item just remind her of what she said
You might be getting lucky and the heavy guage wire is acting like a heat sink and pulling up into the wire. For some reason I'm thinkin you aren't getting the heat you are thinking you are getting out of the iron. If you do like jwscab said the wire won't suck up all the heat...
Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
try heating them up and removing the rest of the wire now before soldering more on. Try like jwscab said and let us know how it worked. Even with low heat you should be able to get the little pieces of wire out now...hopefully.
Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
It's far from pretty, but it's done for these four wires
I will probably attempt this again to make it look better later on
Now, what colour to paint that yellow one? I'm thinking black, orange or blue. In case anyone is wondering, the scheme is a Gulf Racing theme with blue and orange.
vintage AE wrote:I snipped them off and now I'm going to solder them from the top and cross my fingers
DSCN7157.jpg
You could run a small drill bit through the holes, gradually increasing the size until you get close to the diameter of the solder hole. I used this method on my speed passion brushless motor to clean up the holes that the motor wires are soldered to.
I use bits that I can attach to a small screwdriver (hex drive).
vintage AE wrote:I'm still tugging on the wires, but not getting anywhere with it.
Try pushing the wires through instead, maybe. Strip off some of the silicon sheath and heat the solder point, then push the wires through. If it's indeed snipped off on the underside and not pulling through, maybe a push from the opposite direction will get it through enough so you can snip it off.
they HAVE to be un-solderable. even with lead free solder.
I don't know the exact iron you have, if it's a pencil-type with a small nickel plated copper tip, you might need to clean it up, with some scotchbrite or xacto blade scraping. the junction has alot of oxidation and not allowing your iron to reach full temp.
either that, or you just aren't holding enough iron on there long enough.
save drilling for a last resort. if you ruin the via (plated hole) you SIGNIFICANTLY reduce the current handling of the pcb.
Is there any issues with using copper stranded wires for the ESC and Motor?
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just be careful when resoldering new wire into a speed control, some of them have multi-layered circuit boards which can pose a problem if you dont re-solder all they way through, try to get the heat on and off as quick as possible as surface mount...
Okay, since I almost made the same mistake twice, but for different reasons, I thought I would talk about this.
I have two builds now that use Lipo packs that do not have leads, just female banana plugs in them and I use these exclusively with both...
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here are some photos of the damage that occurred...I'm sittin happy with a broken wing that a bit of CA glue will fix
DSCN7219.JPG
I think I have that exact wing, if you're interested. I don't plan on using it, but I received it painted green, and...
So I want to replace the wire on some older Novak ESC's. M1, HPc, etc. Anyone have a source for the thin insulation silicone 12 and 14 gauge wire like the speed controls came with? TQ wire is wrong gauge and insulation thickness, everything else...
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Standard 12 gauge is 4.5mm outer diameter, Novak is about 3.85mm
On my Castle Sidewinder SCT and 3800kv motor sensorless setup, I had shortened the wires for a cleaner install.
It wasn't until *after* (of course) that I learned Castle tells you NOT to shorten the wires.
So my problem is this: I have a Castle...
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I think I can shed some light based on some of the motors I have seen. Some of the motors use the direct motor windings out of the end of the can, and so would be solid wire that is varnished. They often wind them together, heat up to burn off the...
Not sure if this is in the correct area? I want to be able to control a small servo thru the signal my ESC gets from the reciever. So basically a Y-harness from motor channel on reciever. What I hope to have as end result is a servo in neutral when...
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I would like to configure a horn on my third channel. So when I flip I could use it to call for help.
ED
Life Alert for RC.... Help...I'm upside-down and there's no turn marshall .
i was testing some electronics, i have a 12tooth pinion gear,52 tooth spur, a motor with welcome to the machine wrote on it,has the timing marks on it. dont know how many turns. also running a old novak 410 M1C esc. i put this system in a stock rc10...
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Your gearing is wrong, you want less teeth to the pinion not more. Try a 10 tooth pinion on the 6 gear tranny, if it's still to hot go to a 9t.
I just received my new Novak 4 and receiver. In looking at the esc I noticed 2 wires red in color that come from the same place as the switch. They are bare on the ends and they is a small piece of shrink tubing on one of them. Looks factory to me....
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according to my novak booklet, leave apart until 7-10cells is used. :)
Silly question time.
I have a couple of old Novak T4 esc'c that I am wanting to set up in my Losi X2 and PRO. There are two small red wires that exit these units where the receiver and switch wires come out.
Are these power wires for FET servos? If...
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Just wondering if anyone is using these with LiPOs?? I have with mine but the motor seems to get hot quick and I am not sure if its the gearing or the extra power from the lipo.
Thanks
Mark