Rc10 BRUSHED motor suggestions

[Sparky27]

if you are using a modified motor(which will have the retaining ring and screws), it doesn't really matter which way the endbell is put on, but it does matter how it is oriented in relation to the magnets.

the retaining ring has scallops cut in it, which align with punchouts in the can. you place the ring through and then rotate it so the punchouts hold the ring in place. At this point, 0 timing will be with the retaining screws lined up to be directly in between the magnets. from there, regardless of motor rotation, you have 0 timing. if the motor is spinning the wrong direction, swap the motor leads so that is spins as desired. Then to advance the timing, you loosen the endbell screws and turn the endbell the opposite direction of the motor rotation, ie, if the motor is spinning clockwise, you rotate the endbell counterclockwise. Timing will be in degrees and usually falls between 0 and 45 degree. more advance will wear the motor quicker and build heat. You should run some, maybe 10-15 degrees, but there is a whole library of tuning and timing information out there and depends on lots of variable to find the 'sweet' spot. it's not super critical other than you wouldn't have peak performance.

Thanks! I think I got it! What color springs should I use? R my transistor things looking good?

[Sparky27]

For some reason these didn’t add on my last message. Everything look good?

[Sparky27]

Should my motor have one of these bronze washer things on it?

[jwscab]

Yup you got it together perfectly.

As for the bronze/brass washer, yes you can shim the armature to miminize armature play but it's not super necessary for what you are doing.

[bluewormx]

Yup you got it together perfectly.

As for the bronze/brass washer, yes you can shim the armature to miminize armature play but it's not super necessary for what you are doing.

The armature needs to have a little float, it will not run properly if you shimm it out completely.

[Sparky27]

Yup you got it together perfectly.

As for the bronze/brass washer, yes you can shim the armature to miminize armature play but it's not super necessary for what you are doing.

That feels good to have that down...thank you! Two more motor related question if you would pleeeease? The armatures have 3 green plates on the sides. each one is labeled (with a marker) 1,2 and 3. Why is this? The second question is how can I tell how many turns each motors is?

[bluewormx]

The marks on the three sides of the the armarure core are made when the armature is balanced, as a reference by the person doing it.

As far as knowing the wind of the motor. There is no non destructive way to find out.

[jwscab]

exactly right on both counts. You can-sorta-maybe tell how many winds it is by the wire gauge and how many turns you can count that you see. thicker wire and you will be able to count more of the turns, and will be a much lower wind, like 11-14 turns. then 15-19 turns are smaller gauge and will fill the armatures more. 20 turns and above, you will see a pretty thin wire and the armature core will be completely full. again, just rule of thumb/guideline.

another complication is that some winds are multiple turns per wind, like double, or triple-up to 5 or even 6. in that case you have to look very carefully at the welded tab on the comm and see how many wires are welded in place, sometime very hard to see.

if you are lucky, the arm will sometimes have a marking telling you what the wind is.

[Sparky27]

Well I got her to run! At least for a minute...I can’t seem to keep the pinion gear right..I tried using a 1.3 Allen wrench but didn’t seem to get it tight enough to run for more than a few seconds before it slipped off. What size am I supposed to be using on pinion screws? Maybe it was just a bad screw or threads? Either way that pinion was lost in the road last night..lol

[bluewormx]

Pinions are another can of worms.

Old US pinions are 4-40 and use a .050" (1.3mm) allen wrench
New US pinions are 5-40 and use 1/16th allen wrench
Anything from any where else in the world will be metric M3 and use 1.5mm allen wrench.

[XLR8]

Sparky, it's super critical that the set screw be tightened against the flat that's ground into the motor shaft. If it isn't, the pinion probably won't stay put no matter how tight the screw.

[Sparky27]

Pinions are another can of worms.

Old US pinions are 4-40 and use a .050" (1.3mm) allen wrench
New US pinions are 5-40 and use 1/16th allen wrench
Anything from any where else in the world will be metric M3 and use 1.5mm allen wrench.

Awesome thanks for the info!

[Sparky27]

Sparky, it's super critical that the set screw be tightened against the flat that's ground into the motor shaft. If it isn't, the pinion probably won't stay put no matter how tight the screw.

Wow! I can almost guarantee that’s what happened!!

[TRX-1-3]

Sparky, it's super critical that the set screw be tightened against the flat that's ground into the motor shaft. If it isn't, the pinion probably won't stay put no matter how tight the screw.

Wow! I can almost guarantee that’s what happened!!

Additionally, a tiny dab of anaerobic thread locker. The mild kind (Think locktite blue, tiny dab [like toothpick point sized drop]). Then you won't need to gorilla torque the set screw. AND it seems to provide threadlocker action for multiple tightening cycles. Just a consideration for more pinion set screw bullet-proofing.

[GeneralZod]

Another thing to keep your pinion from flying off the motor shaft is putting a small dab of paint on the end of the motor shaft. Just enough to create a small blob to keep from losing it in case the setscrew works loose. This is what I do with all my pan cars.