RC10T2 Basher

[juicedcoupe]

Just an observation. To me, your choice of electronics seems out of place for a basher.

Unless your gearing is extremely mild, a 13T modified seems hot for bashing in a truck.

The esc also seems mild for the application. Even though it is "technically" within its ratings, bashing in a truck with a 13T sounds like a bit much for a 40 amp esc.

Your servo is also mild. A 3001 is basically a 148 with a bearing. If grass and rough terrain are in your future, it is definitely on the weak side.

[RC10th]

I agree the servo is a bit wussy for a truck but I'd bet most of us are guilty of running a 3001 back when we were younger.

I think the 13T is a great choice for a basher, good run times and reasonable power without being too fast or hard on drivetrain. A lot of it also depends on the skill of the driver....

[JosephS]

Just an observation. To me, your choice of electronics seems out of place for a basher.

Unless your gearing is extremely mild, a 13T modified seems hot for bashing in a truck.

The esc also seems mild for the application. Even though it is "technically" within its ratings, bashing in a truck with a 13T sounds like a bit much for a 40 amp esc.

Your servo is also mild. A 3001 is basically a 148 with a bearing. If grass and rough terrain are in your future, it is definitely on the weak side.

I was considering grabbing a modern servo that was pulled from a RTR, but the servo actually seems ok though it's a far cry from anything great. It seems to handle the grass fine.

I had the truck very over geared when I was solving a pinion retention problem. I am getting that squared away now. I didn't have a high budget for the electronics on this, so I'm going to do the best I can with this and I think I can have something fun to run.

[RC10th]

It seems to handle the grass fine.

I think that’s your problem.. .. Grass.....

Grass is hard on anything and I doubt you'd be able to keep any mod motor cool running through it.

[JosephS]

It seems to handle the grass fine.

I think that’s your problem.. .. Grass.....

Grass is hard on anything and I doubt you'd be able to keep any mod motor cool running through it.

The truck has no problems on pavement but, I don't have a lot of that.
My rc collection provides motivation to mow the lawn.

[JosephS]

Some quality of life upgrade for the truck.

Replaced a bent turnbuckle.

Replaced the spur gear with one of the Robinson absolute gears.

It is night and day quieter than the stock spur was. I was also able to set the gear mesh with no fuss at all.
I moved up some a pinion size since it was 89 vs 87 teeth.

I also got an actual t2 RPM gear cover. I bought one from someone on facebook previously, at $30 but it absolutely wasn't a t2 cover, now that I have an actual one.

Lucky for me the new 89 tooth spur sits perfectly inside the new cover and it all fits like it should.


The left side universal kept popping out. I pulled the shock, hub and shaft. The shaft was bent and I used some soft jaw pliers to bend it back by hand.
Took the time to clean the hub bearings and remove one shim on the outside of the hub to the inside.
While I was there I rebuilt the rear shocks using a Traxxas rebuild kit. I used the spacer from the traxxas kit as a travel limiter along with a single stock .030 spacer.

All of that together was enough to keep it from popping. The outdrives are now a bit chipped on one side but it runs fine otherwise.

I have used body for it and just got some plastic polish for it.

plastic polish.jpg (13.95 KiB) Viewed 825 times

plastic polish.jpg (13.95 KiB) Viewed 825 times

The only useful bottle seems to the #2 polish. It really brings the clarity back to the old shell, but it didn't remove any visible scratches.

It's driving nice now, despite electronics.

[JosephS]

Bashing at the park cut short.

[juicedcoupe]

And that is why I use wheel nuts that have serrated faces and nylon locks whenever possible.

Traxxas axles come with dry thread locker on them. I don't remember what its called.

[JosephS]

So I finally made the basher brushless. Well half brushless. I did not realize that a motor can reliably on springs only.
I am not sure how many runs you can get out of a set of brushes, but it's without doubt less than I had put on it. One brush was worn to a nub and the other was just gone. The spring had to have been making contact on the comm for it to have been running.

I broke out the comm stick, put in some new brushes and it runs faster, but rougher, now.

[JosephS]

I was having a small amount of trouble with the original steel camber turnbuckles bending after bashing around. I got a pair of titanium replacements for just that set. It's the first time I broke out my ball cup wrench and used a little grease to start the threads.

It made it much easier to get a clean and scratch free installation.

Were the older team associated blue titanium parts painted blue?
I pulled a NOS set out of a bag and they were brilliant blue. Once I touched them the color rubbed right off.

Looks like the motor needs a bit more love. Maybe I need some new springs to go with the new brushes.

[RC10th]

The AE ones were anodised.

Check you comm that there aren't dark spots/peeling after using your comm pen, it's possible that it's burnt or damaged depending on the arcing and heat. I highly doubt the springs would rub the comm as they should stop short due to the slots in the brush hood.

[juicedcoupe]

Check you comm that there aren't dark spots/peeling after using your comm pen, it's possible that it's burnt or damaged depending on the arcing and heat.

If it was run until the brushes were gone, I'm quite sure that it was arcing heavily. The spring tension would have been minimal.

At the very least, it probably needs the comm cut. A comm stick, pen, or sand paper can't undo that kind of damage.

[JosephS]

Check you comm that there aren't dark spots/peeling after using your comm pen, it's possible that it's burnt or damaged depending on the arcing and heat.

If it was run until the brushes were gone, I'm quite sure that it was arcing heavily. The spring tension would have been minimal.

At the very least, it probably needs the comm cut. A comm stick, pen, or sand paper can't undo that kind of damage.

This was an $11 hackmodo special from amain instead of a good vintage motor. I have no idea how it could have possibly been running at all. It seems that there had to be at least some stub of a brush, but I didn't see any remnant at all when I pulled the springs.

I think the brushes are binding in the brush hoods when I get the time I'll have to pull it all apart and see if it's the springs or some debris that I missed. I don't have any access to a com cutter so I'll just have to do my best with sand paper and see if it gets running reasonable. Right now it runs for a short bit then just stops until I pull on the brushes.

I ordered a replacement motor 550 that was more appropriate for the build but the front bushing is to large for the t2's motor plate. I haven't wanted to file down the AE piece yet.

[JosephS]

The AE ones were anodised.

I guess titanium anodize behaves differently from aluminum. After a small amount of handling they look identical to the titanium turnbuckles on my team t4. They are pale blue at best now.

[JosephS]

Now that my carbon fiber tub is finished and fully cured I am starting on rebuilding this guy. The tub isn’t perfect it thicker than the stock tub and I had to make some changes.

I am pretty happy that I can just go and buy a new plate.

The nose plates I had were warped.

The plate doesn’t have the t2 servo mounting hole pre drilled.that was an easy fix.

The j concepts b6.2 servo brace has the same offsets as the original servo mounts for the t2. I mounted it up with some 10mm m3 flathead screws. They use the same countersink as the 4-40 hardware.

The chassis thickness caused an issue with the special hardware used for the gt steering. The j-concepts steering rack dropped right in and it’s design allows for the thicker chassis with no issue.

So all the steering parts are test fitted. I have to dig up my center link. I think I also want to find a nicer looking steering link.

Under the tape the servo was upgraded from a futaba 3001 to a Savox 1258. I also secured it down with some 1-up blue servo mount screws.