RE RE STEALTH TRANS

[Medved]

My stealth trans is all moving freely since I got the replacement top shaft. However I have noticed that I'm getting a bit of slip somewhere when I gun the throttle.

I've tightened the slipper clutch and I'm still getting some slippage before it engages and takes off. It is also making a slight squealing sound, any ideas?

[jwscab]

squealing or barking indicates diff needs to be tightened.

[GodSpeed]

I've been wanting to ask so now that it's been brought up, can someone explain to me the harm of having a slipper adjusted too loose or too tight?

On that, do the same principles apply to the 6-gear and the Stealth?

What components might I damage or break if I have it too loose or too tight?

[GoMachV]

can someone explain to me the harm of having a slipper adjusted too loose or too tight?

Too loose, slips excessively, no forward motion
Too tight, diff slips causing it to melt, also lack of traction

On that, do the same principles apply to the 6-gear and the Stealth?

Not really, the 6 gear has only a diff not a slipper. You really don't want it slipping

What components might I damage or break if I have it too loose or too tight?

You mean the slipper too tight? Maybe an idler gear, outdrives wear faster. If too loose, won't really take out parts besides maybe the slipper disk. It may heat up enough to hurt the idler but doubtful. If it's too loose it won't be any fun to drive as it will not go anywhere

If you mean the diff too tight or loose, then tight would be hard on the balls causing flat spots, rings get grooved. Loose, same thing but add melted diff gear center

[Medved]

Yes it was the diff that was slipping. Tightened it up and not tangible slip anymore......now looking forward to some wheelies!

[GodSpeed]

Thanks gomachv.

So on my 6-gear while I wait for the proper Stealth components to arrive, I should crank the diff nut down onto the spring pretty tight and not really risk harming anything? Right now I can hear it slip on a hard launch with good traction.

Once I can assemble my Stealth, how does one determine the proper balance between a too tight or too loose slipper and differential?

[GoMachV]

Thanks gomachv.

So on my 6-gear while I wait for the proper Stealth components to arrive, I should crank the diff nut down onto the spring pretty tight and not really risk harming anything? Right now I can hear it slip on a hard launch with good traction.

Once I can assemble my Stealth, how does one determine the proper balance between a too tight or too loose slipper and differential?

On the 6 gear you will usually have a tad bit of slip especially with a good motor. A little is acceptable, but you don't want it slipping like a slipper would.

You set the slipper to allow for a good launch without spinning the tires excessively. It's a trial and error thing, just set it tight and back it off until your happy with the launch. I think they say no more than a couple foot of slip

[NickTheGreek]

Someone with experience explain this to me.....

The worlds car has been having problems with the top shaft .....we know this.

So, I ordered a kit directly from AE for $200....and when I ordered I asked them to send me a replacement b4 top shaft .....which they did...(they're customer support is great).....

This is what I don't get.....

I build the tranny (I used the American case n idler that goes with it) ....I didn't bother using the kit supplied top shaft. I went straight to the replacement b4 top shaft they sent me......and when I went to assemble the slipper, it was rubbing on the motor plate.
So I take it apart and I try the top shaft that came with the worlds kit......and that one fits fine....no rubbing against the plate.

What's goin on over here???

[GoMachV]

The top shaft debacle didn't effect my kit either, it was properly machined. All my problems were with the idler and case. I also ordered another topshaft (just in case) and it was fine also. You just got unlucky. There were probably hundreds of those shafts in that batch that got made improperly.

[NickTheGreek]

Yeah, that's what it looks like....

My first kit, the top shaft was machined wrong, and the b4 replacement worked fine.....Now it was the exact opposite.

Makes me wonder if I order a couple of spares , what I'm gonna get. If they're gonna be good or not.

...............

Being that the last two stealths I built had the b4 top shaft, I threw on the vts slipper....and this b4 top shaft I just installed was machined wrong and I went back to the kit supplied one, will the vts slipper work with it?? .....not that it matters cause I'm not gonna run this particular car and just have the regular slipper on it.....just for future reference...
Im thinking no.

[GoMachV]

From what I can tell the VTS fits all my top shafts just fine. You can't use the fancy new associated gear cover tho, you need the rpm

[jbmeyer13]

I just rebuilt one of my original stealth tranny's from 1991 so I'll add a couple of things:

- Associated still has NOS RC10T cases in stock which have no issues fitting properly. Back then there was only one case used for the team car and truck.
- The top shaft gear from the re-re doesn't contain the pin so best to look on ebay or in hobby shops with old stock to find that part if you are trying for period correct detail.
- The original stealth used a teflon shielded output shaft bearing but the rest of the bearings are the metal shielded type.

I wrote this from the context of recreating a period correct example. If you just want a runner you can ignore the second and third points.

[GoMachV]

The cases from associated are not NOS they are however made from the original mold. The last ones of the originals to come from the factory were black, the newest ones are a grayish color and are noticeably different than original (I have just received 4 of them). I'm not talking about the ReRe worlds cases, they are closer to the correct color but completely different.

[jbmeyer13]

The cases from associated are not NOS they are however made from the original mold. The last ones of the originals to come from the factory were black, the newest ones are a grayish color and are noticeably different than original (I have just received 4 of them). I'm not talking about the ReRe worlds cases, they are closer to the correct color but completely different.

Hmmm...interesting. I just received a 10T stealth case and the color looks to be correct. I'll have to take a look again tonight and compare them closely. How are you differentiating the production runs? I figured any packages with the American flag logo or prior were considered original run.

[GoMachV]

The cases from associated are not NOS they are however made from the original mold. The last ones of the originals to come from the factory were black, the newest ones are a grayish color and are noticeably different than original (I have just received 4 of them). I'm not talking about the ReRe worlds cases, they are closer to the correct color but completely different.

Hmmm...interesting. I just received a 10T stealth case and the color looks to be correct. I'll have to take a look again tonight and compare them closely. How are you differentiating the production runs? I figured any packages with the American flag logo or prior were considered original run.

The original white cases were phased out long ago when they went to black. If you got an original run of white cases from associated just recently that's a huge score as they bring good money on eBay. All the cases I have got from associated were the new header and the color is described as "Compaq Gray" like the computer.