Am planning on building it but was thinking about putting all of the plastics in a peroxide bath foe a few days of uv light.
Two questions: Do you think this will cause any damage to the plastics, considering how old they are? And, do you think that pure white would be a bad choice and I should stay with the original looking off-white look?
I like the bright white myself. Parts should be fine. Probably hold up better than the whipped parts people have used I would think. Just because they're less brittle to begin with being NIP. Nkice score BTW!
"The world looks so much better through beer goggles: Enjoy today, you never know what tomorrow may bring." Ken
I was thinking pure white too, but feel a twinge of guilt for not leaving it original. I'm also struggling with the decision on the paint scheme. Should I feel a level of responsibility to go with traditional box art, or should I go with my usual race colours?
I appreciate that some would say that I have a duty to keep it original, but with so many people doing the box-art themes, wouldn't it be better to do something different?
I've seen a whole bunch of really good paint schemes on here and think that the box-art would simply feel a little ordinary, if that is at all possible when your lucky enough to have a new unbuilt kit......
To be honest, I think I speak for a lot of people when I say there are plenty of box art RC10s out there. I think the models where people put their own spin on them are far more interesting. IMHO
"The world looks so much better through beer goggles: Enjoy today, you never know what tomorrow may bring." Ken
Yes, please get more info from someone with more experience. I've never read the entire peroxide thread because I've never needed whiter parts. I thought the earlier parts help up well, but obviously I may be wrong. I don't want my opinion to ruin your parts... Good luck whatever route you choose. I look forward to seeing it.
"The world looks so much better through beer goggles: Enjoy today, you never know what tomorrow may bring." Ken
I tossed my RC10 parts in a peroxide bath for about a day and a half and was pleased with the results. It lightened them slightly and there werent any adverse effects from the process.
I did a box art car and am happy with it. It was a rebuild so I did the peroxide to clean it up., Second car I left teh body clear to show off the chassis more.
With your NIB kit I'd build it "as is", the body is your call. Do whatever you like best as you're the one that has to be happy with the results, not somebody else
THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:To be honest, I think I speak for a lot of people when I say there are plenty of box art RC10s out there. I think the models where people put their own spin on them are far more interesting. IMHO
I'd been considering starting a thread on that very same train of thought - why are the box art builds so popular? I never once bought something and said "Hey, I want it to look like someone else's..."
I do admire the effort put into box art builds, just not my thing. You know how it's going to turn out, and then it often turns into "the font on that sticker is wrong" type discussions.
Charlie don't surf wrote:What do you have left if all your snow white parts are chalky, which is typical of peroxided parts? Just a thought-
Chalky? Ok, you got my attention! Can you explain further, does that refer to colour or what might be a change to the plastic condition?
Associated used different nylon mixtures or climatic or environmental differences make some of the nylon take an ashy appearance after a perioxide bath ( like all the oil is sucked out of the parts ). I personally look at it like this, if the car cost you $100 bucks ( let's pretend ) and its parts are bright white but chalky and you have to replace them all then its going to cost you a lot more time and money than the $100 you started with in it, or you sell the remaining perfect parts for less than.$100 you had in it when you had a perfect car to start with. Just my .02
It might have been discussed on here before but I worry if long exposure to peroxide adversely affects the plastic at all. Whitening parts up a little bit seems like it would be fine but bleaching the heck out of something just seems like it would do harm. Maybe its the idea that soaking something in a chemical for too long can't be that good for it. Unless a controlled test is performed in some plastics lab using expensive equipment we might never know.
About a month ago, when I got two rc10 rollers to combine together their best parts and restore one car, I made a google search on how to whiten plastic parts. After seeing three different web sites, I was satisfied with what I needed to do.
All...
Last post
I see a lot of people have made some great insights, and the poster has already gotten some good results... But I had a few ideas if anyone is interested.
I'm no chemistry expert, but in my organic chemistry classes, we learned most radical...
After being dormant since the late eighties I've decided to blow life into my old A stamp. I've been thinking of doing this for years, and now I'm posting the build here in the hope it will motivate me to actually get it finished. The goal is to get...
Last post
Trying out bell cranks with the cut nuts as shown above, to solve the problem of the stripped threads in the nose plate. Took away some material from the bell cranks to lower the ball ends for the steering rods. Also compensated with 0,75 mm washers...
Hey, finished my mid/late Edinger posted in my gallery but thought I'd show more pics here in case anyone had any questions or wanted to comment. Thanks for looking. BTW the only thing that is not original with this build, or any of my builds, are...
Last post
Very nice build....I like my peroxide blondes sporting Double D's 8)
I have a 1986 rc10. All original parts. i can't get the speed control or servo(tried with working receiver) to work and would like to replace the parts. I have the original edinger motor plus 3 more NIB trinity motors. Any suggestions or ideas as...
Last post
The old servos will work fine, and the traxxas transmitter is, well, honestly, crap. But, on something that is only driven on an occasional basis it's fine.
I was incorrectly just assuming the car had a Stealth tranny, not sure why, but ca-rj is...
I bought this on ebay for what I thought was a very fair price. Anyway when I asked him if he had the original tires and wheels he said. Its been so long I thought those were the original tires and wheels did I stumble upon a great find? They look...
Last post
If you never hit curbs or bottom it out it will stay looking nice. I have an Optima Mid that I ran on cement and carpet. I bet I went through 12 sets of tires and then put it away. It still looks darn near new. It is worth a try though to see if he...
Hey guys, I finally finished this car! I wanted to give it my custom flavor, but keep it as correct as possible, and come up with a '80's era paint scheme, I think I pulled it off nicely...
replaced all the black hardware and the turnbuckle...
Last post
Glad it arrived safely!
I can do another body exactly (or better) like that one if you are interested, just let me know.
I can also do just about any other paint scheme you may be interested in.
P.S. keep a lookout for my next Edinger in a few...
Hey guys I have been a member here for a while and dont post a whole lot but enjoy restoring and collecting RC10s just the same. My qustion is how long should you wait to reassemble the whitened plastics on the chassis. The reason I ask is because...
Last post
Just out of curiosity, what is the process for using peroxide? Just soak? If so, how long?
Do a search in the forum, there is a whole post on how to do it.